6v battery charger conflict

console. It has four AA Alkaline cells and a small (about 1" square) solar panel to help trickle charge the batteries.

thing to get the station down from the pole on top of the garage to replace the batteries.

sealed 6v 1.2AH lead acid battery and a 6v solar charging panel.

question is, do I need to do something about that small solar panel charge? I was thinking just put a diode in series with the battery positive going to the station so nothing can come back to the lead acid battery.

(1) Ordinary alkaline batteries _are_not_ rechargeable. Are you using the rechargeable type?

(2) Does the ¡ 1" ! solar cell actually charge anything? Or are they part of the "green hoax" ?:-) ...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson, CTO                            |    mens     |
| Analog Innovations, Inc.                         |     et      |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems  |    manus    |
| Phoenix, Arizona  85048    Skype: Contacts Only  |             |
| Voice:(480)460-2350  Fax: Available upon request |  Brass Rat  |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com |    1962     |
             
I love to cook with wine.     Sometimes I even put it in the food.

console. It has four AA Alkaline cells and a small (about 1" square) solar panel to help trickle charge the batteries.

thing to get the station down from the pole on top of the garage to replace the batteries.

sealed 6v 1.2AH lead acid battery and a 6v solar charging panel.

question is, do I need to do something about that small solar panel charge? I was thinking just put a diode in series with the battery positive going to the station so nothing can come back to the lead acid battery.

Unless you have the rechargeable alkaline cells, the standard types are not rechargeable.

Have you tried rechargeable types? you may get a lot more time out of them. I have replaceable types in my solar lighting for my drive way and they have lasted for 3 years now. The panel charges them during the day.

Jamie

=A0 =A0 ...Jim Thompson

=A0 =A0| =A0 =A0mens =A0 =A0 |

=A0 | =A0 =A0 et =A0 =A0 =A0|

=A0|

=A0 =A0 =A0 |

From Wiki

Ordinary alkaline batteries can be charged with a current pulsed at a rate of 40 to 200 pulses per second, with an 80% duty cycle. Pulsed charging appears to reduce the risk of electrolyte =97 usually potassium hydroxide (KOH) =97 leakage. The charging current is usually very low to avoid rapid production of gasses that can rupture the cell. Cells that have leaked electrolyte are a safety hazard and unsuitable for reuse.

My experience is that ordinary alkaline batteries can be charged if they have been discharged to about 1.3 volts.

=20 Dan

console. It has four AA Alkaline cells and a small (about 1" square) solar panel to help trickle charge the batteries.

thing to get the station down from the pole on top of the garage to replace the batteries.

sealed 6v 1.2AH lead acid battery and a 6v solar charging panel.

question is, do I need to do something about that small solar panel charge? I was thinking just put a diode in series with the battery positive going to the station so nothing can come back to the lead acid battery.

--
You need something more basic.

If it were me in that predicament, I'd get rid of that tiny PV and
supply power to the instruments on the pole from the mains or from a
lead-acid battery in the station if the mains failed.

Do you have mains power available?

A one inch solar panel cannot produce enough power to damage a lead-acid battery of the size you propose so you don't need to worry.

--
?? 100% natural

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to news@netfront.net

Recently bought a weather station that wireless transits data to an inside console. It has four AA Alkaline cells and a small (about 1" square) solar panel to help trickle charge the batteries.

All good, but the batteries are lasting only about four weeks. It is a major thing to get the station down from the pole on top of the garage to replace the batteries.

Because it is outside and I don't care what it looks like, I want to use a sealed 6v 1.2AH lead acid battery and a 6v solar charging panel.

I will remove the Alkaline batteries, run wires to the lead acid, but the question is, do I need to do something about that small solar panel charge? I was thinking just put a diode in series with the battery positive going to the station so nothing can come back to the lead acid battery.

Would that all work or do I need something fancier?

Thanks

Dave

-----------------------------------

Why not run a 2 wire cable down from the instrument to a 4 x D cell battery holder at the base of the pole. It may be cheaper and easier.

console.

Please share the device in question.

Where did you purchase it ?

hamilton

First of all, please ensure that the batteries are=20 rechargeable. Secondly, the 1" size for a solar panel seems unusually=20 small. Given that the power conversion efficiency of=20 solar panels is so low (maximum 25$ for very high=20 quality ones) - this tiny thing does anything useful. Thirdly, because of the low power conversion efficiency it takes a long time (5 - 7 hours) for say 4 1000 mAH rechargeable NiCd cells to charge up/

On Saturday, September 8, 2012 5:38:31 PM UTC-4, Dave, I can't do that wrot= e:

e console. It has four AA Alkaline cells and a small (about 1" square) sola= r panel to help trickle charge the batteries.

jor thing to get the station down from the pole on top of the garage to rep= lace the batteries.

a sealed 6v 1.2AH lead acid battery and a 6v solar charging panel.

question is, do I need to do something about that small solar panel charge= ? I was thinking just put a diode in series with the battery positive going= to the station so nothing can come back to the lead acid battery.

console. It has four AA Alkaline cells and a small (about 1" square) solar panel to help trickle charge the batteries.

thing to get the station down from the pole on top of the garage to replace the batteries.

sealed 6v 1.2AH lead acid battery and a 6v solar charging panel.

question is, do I need to do something about that small solar panel charge? I was thinking just put a diode in series with the battery positive going to the station so nothing can come back to the lead acid battery.

Are you sure the 'solar panel' is supposed to be for charging batteries rather than measuring sunlight? It will give bugger all power, less at night.

Cheers

--
Syd

Thanks for replies.

The manual states (yes, I do read manuals) "use standard alkaline batteries= ." It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too l= azy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

Manual states the solar panel is there to trickle charge the batteries.

Surplus 6v 1.2mH LA battery is 4-bucks.=20 Surplus 6v solar panel is 7-bucks.=20

For 11-bucks, that is not many D-Cells.

Grid power would cost a bunch more by the time I get a 6v transformer and b= uild a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I can = do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks will = provide free power for a long long time.

I am more concerned about damaging the weather station electronics by allow= ing the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the L= A battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want to= destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

So, back to the original question, will a diode suffice?

It would be so nice, if for once, this forum returned a direct answer to a = direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am cer= tain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely gets to see= the light of day.

Dave

It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

build a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I can do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks will provide free power for a long long time.

the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am certain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely gets to see the light of day.

Please share the device in question.

Where did you purchase it ?

hamilton

On Sunday, September 9, 2012 10:56:47 AM UTC-4, Dave, I can't do that wrote= :

es." It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too= lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

build a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I ca= n do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks wil= l provide free power for a long long time.

owing the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the= LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want = to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

a direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am c= ertain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely gets to s= ee the light of day.

Use your common sense. Since the manufacturer requires standard alkaline ce= lls, there is no charging current going into the batteries. It is not neces= sary to use a diode.

It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

build a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I can do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks will provide free power for a long long time.

the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

direct question,

rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am certain there is a wealth of technical

know-how here but it rarely gets to see the light of day.

The diode will reduce the 7.2V of the charged LA by half a volt or so into your system designed for 6V. Diodes are often used with solar chargers to keep the battery from discharging back thru the solar panel at night.

I have a lot more to say on the subject. Holler if you change your mind about doing it the hard way and want some useful info.

In this case I think he needs low self discharge rechargeable cells or the solar cell has no chance to keep up.

batteries." It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I = think, too lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

and build a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if= I can do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when =

11-bucks will provide free power for a long long time.

allowing the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps = to the LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do = not want to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or= something.

a direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I = am certain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely = gets to see the light of day.

With that small of solar cell against that LA battery it should suffice. The battery will regulate sufficiently to protect the instrument as long as it lasts. I would be more worried that tiny solar cell won't be = enough the overcome the LA self-discharge. Perhaps using rechargeable lithium

1.5 v AA cells would work better. =20

?-)

es." It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too= lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

build a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I ca= n do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks wil= l provide free power for a long long time.

owing the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the= LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want = to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

a direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am c= ertain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely gets to s= ee the light of day.

Please post the make, model and source of this weather station. A link to it would be helpful if possible.

Was it like this one?

[...]

-One TX61U-IT solar powered remote sensor included

-High-efficiency solar panels maintains full charge with minimal light and stores solar power for continuous operation

-Receiver rechargeable alkaline batteries can be replaced with rechargeable alkaline or regular alkaline batteries by changing switch from Solar to Battery

It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I can do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks will provide free power for a long long time.

the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am certain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely gets to see the light of day.

Dave, Make sure that this is actually six volts, and not 3 volts. My weather station has six batteries, but the are two batteries in parallel. You could buy a solar charger/supply for mine, and had two of them cook out in less than a few months. The manufacturer was in Canada, and I am in the low desert in CA. The system couldn't take the heat...

Once I realized this, I just use good alkaline cells and go months without changing batteries. Helps to put the battery pack/transmitter in a relatively cool spot...

Charlie

It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

build a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I can do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks will provide free power for a long long time.

the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am certain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely gets to see the light of day.

Make that FOUR batteries, in series-parallel... ;-)

It also suggests Li-Ion for operating in temps below 15F (I think, too lazy to get the manual to check for the actual low temp range)

build a regulated 6v PS. It makes no sense to me to use grid power if I can do it with solar. Can't see the logic behind using grid when 11-bucks will provide free power for a long long time.

the solar panel and charger circuitry pushing volts/milli-amps to the LA battery. I am sure it would not harm the LA battery, but I do not want to destroy a 200-dollar station for the cost of a $0.06 diode or something.

direct question, rather than a long debate on peripheral nonsense. I am certain there is a wealth of technical know-how here but it rarely gets to see the light of day.

There is something wrong with your weather station if AA cells last only a month.

I have a LaCrosse WS2350 which takes input from a wired rain gauge and anemometer. It the transmits the data from those and the inbuilt temperature and humidity sensors wirelessly to a base station. The first set of 3 alkaline AAs lasted 20 months before they needed replacing (the manual states that the battery life is approximately 12 months). The second set has already been going a year.

--

Jeff