300W Resistive load?

Hammy Inscribed thus:

How about a couple of yards of electric fire bar element.

wire a few car headlights together, each is 50-70W.

I already have a couple hundred clear 60W bulbs. I'll buy another couple of hundred by 2012, which is when the ban goes into effect.

The ban was put in place BO. I doubt the Republicans will have the guts to turn that one around.

How about dual 30W filaments? Or perhaps 19/39(/58)? ;-)

Try buying a real toilet. Well, if you don't live near a Canuckistani HomeDespot.

Yea we have Mohawks running bootleg booze and smokes across the lake and yanks smuggling toilets back the other way.;-)

Balance of bootleg, er, trade. ;-)

Decent converter should handle that? Not like 8:1 lamp hot:cold is a short circuit, almost a short ;)

I keep an old fuser element in the cupboard for hi voltage loads, and have light bulbs setup for 24V with 12V halogens in series, then proper high wattage resistors picked up over time.

Lamps are easiest to hook up, perhaps three or more in series at first?

Over here they've banned incandescent lamps already, only those new and expensive hi-voltage halogens available :(

What about an electric heater on low? Got a couple or more to wire in series? Raid an electric stove, put elements in series?

Grant.

needed.

I've been known to take two sheets of copper clad, drill a grid of holes and solder a hundred or so 2W resistors between the planes, put a muffin fan on it and away you go... :-) ...Jim Thompson

needed.

Yup, fairly easy to make and use.

I'm doing something like that with 17W resistors for a hybrid power DAC I'm building. Except I'm using a strip of copper clad each end of 8 x 17W resistors, and they'll be bolted to a framework made with M5 allthread and spacers with a 120mm fan at one end for cooling.

Also done low value 0.1% resistors: 121 x 12R1, 0.1% for 100 mOhm and 120 x 120R 0.1% for 1 Ohm calibration resistors at reasonable currents.

Grant.

It should be able to handle starting into a short. The inductor would saturate but the controller wont come on until on the caps charge up and it passes its UVLO anyway's.

I measured the resistance from the fuse to the bridge rectifier its 4 ohms that includes a 5A, 2.5oHm NTC. So at the max current at worst case line peak would only be about 40A. That's well within the ratings of anything in the inrush currents path.

You should test a supply into a short anyway's, this just saves me some time two birds with one stone.;-)

Yep that's what I'm going to do. Its the easiest and takes up the least room. I can just put the lamps down on the floor out of the way.

I suspect that will eventually start happening here as well.

I'm starting to get a collection of 5 to 10W resistors but I dont have quite that many yet.;-)

Ceramic lamp sockets are cheap and available at any hardware store. And they are UL listed and approved for the purpose. No need to hack soething for which an easy solution exists.

Just take every other bulb out of the bathroom fixture. And if the wifes makeup looks a bit funny afterwards, just keep your mouth shut.

Or the old replaceable electric jug / kettle elements.

Ohmite makes all kinds of nice resistors. I used one of these to test my most recent power supplies:

That was a woman's idea. :(

I've constructed an adjustable dummy load by using 4 TO3 transistors from an old switching power supply. A heatsink and a couple of fans take care of the heat. The whole thing isn't much larger than a shoe box.

^^^^^^

Doesn't work in this case though, you'll be in the second breakdown = region. Unless it was slightly less old and used TO-3 MOSFETs, which = Idunno, might be worth something on eBay. :^)

Hammy might have a few FETs left over from the boost though, they would = handle the voltage just fine, as long as there's enough for the power.

Tim

--=20 Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website:

Unless it was slightly less old and used TO-3 MOSFETs, which Idunno, might be worth something on eBay. :^)

the voltage just fine, as long as there's enough for the power.

FETS I have a lot of. I also have some nice(2) brick heatsinks I scavenged from some old microwave oven and car stero ampslifier.

Thta was my original thought but I was thinking it would take to many to dissapate the power 275W.

The biggest I have in quantity is the FQA24N50 TO-3PN

I have about 30 of those.

Actually those are in a pretty beefy package maybe 5 on a brick with a fan might work.

I also have about 40 of these FQP27N25 TO-220

Both of those Newark had on for dirt cheap and I was buying ten of each everytime I did an order. Figured they might come in handy at some time.;-)

I have 1 or 2 IRF350 in to-3 no suitable heatsink for that power level.

Ceramic sockets usually cost several times the price of a bulb:

Oh, that'll get you several slaps with the handbag next time she looks into a mirror :-)

Unless it was slightly less old and used TO-3 MOSFETs, which Idunno, might be worth something on eBay. :^)

the voltage just fine, as long as there's enough for the power.

Finned heat sinks, arranged as a square tunnel, fins inward, file, mill, whatever so they fit together nicely, and the "square" is muffin-fan size... which fits on one end. ...Jim Thompson