You can still make good advantage of solar thermal for heat and hot water, which is more in demand in higher latitude than cooling. That offloads an a ccompanying solar PV by a LOT to run the flea power stuff remaining. Refrig erators, washing machines, coffee makers and that kind of stuff is really l ow power these days. You would have to transition to microwave cooking howe ver.
ian at a major dealership in the U.S. I deal with 12V 110V hybrid systems i n top end RVs everyday. First, the risk of fire from a current overload is VERY REAL, if you get a dead short on 12V and it is improperly fused, welc ome to a glowing hot wire that will burn everything. Romex is not designed to carry high amperage loads. Low voltage = high amps. Although a runn ing load probably won't exceed 15 amps, DC dead shorts can be dangerous in inadequate wiring. And if you haven't seen a DC lightbulb dead short itsel f when it burns out and blow a fuse, you haven't worked with low voltage ve ry much.. Think about it, your typical home service box is rated for 150 a mps, a 12V Deep cycle battery can deliver 850 cold cranking amps! Wires ca re about amperage load, not voltage. High amps = High heat. So now that we got that out of the way, here is what you should do, and what would act ually be to code. Invest in
ey are stackable for 220V service. Wire these to pairs of GC6 6volt deep c ycle batteries, 1 pair in series to make 12V, each pair wired in parralel t o add desired amp hours, use a minimum of 2 gauge leads to connect these an d the inverters, and keep the leads as short as possible. Disconnect the 6
-3 from the service box supplying your power. Wire each hot wire to the ap propriate 30 amp circuit on each inverter (one inverter carries red, one ca rries black) Then wire the neutral wire to both, and ground wire to both a nd drive a grounding rod to terminate the ground to. This will drive EVERY THING in that cabin with exactly what it's supposed to have, and give you p lenty of head room for electric motor starts, peak loads, etc. Best of all , you touch nothing that has already been wired other than the 4 leads comi ng from you main. You are essentially making a new main powered by your in verters.
uly efficient system out there to run a 12V to 110V conversion is hydroelec tric, but that is a whole nother topic.
sun is shining too) Long explanation short, you will ALWAYS consume faste r than you can produce (except for hydroelectric) 2ind solar hybrids are b etter, but not much. Now if you are off grid, how do you supplement this p itfall? Buy a 90amp deck mount converter, and use a generator too.
ing I just said to get. The beauty of it is, if my batteries begin to get low, I flick a switch and they charge off of my power pole. Also keep in m ind this system is not for beginners to build, and it costs about $6000. A nd no, you won't be reimbursed for it because it isn't an authorized power generation system.
You can't hallucinate about getting something for nothing that way.
Or spend hundreds of hours to save hundreds of dollars.
Well, if it's your hobby, I suppose it's OK.
-- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc picosecond timing precision measurement jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
12/2 Romex has #12 wire inside.
-- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc picosecond timing precision measurement jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
Yes, my point was the basic efficiency can still get the job done, with enough panels. When using our HVAC's heat pump, heating the house with solar is cheaper than burning oil, for temps above 40 deg F. A roof-full of solar panels is nothing to sneeze at. We make 11.5 MWh of juice per year, in MA, with a less-than ideal 45-deg house-angle tilt to the west.
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Thanks,
- Win
Typical New England oil heat with hot water radiators? I ran a search on mi nisplit geothermal, and, lo and behold, there is such a thing. If you ever decide to retrofit, maybe when your current system conks out, this would be the technology to use. There are no limitations on outdoor temps because t he heat exchange is with deep soil. The SEERs stay high, both heat and cool , hovering at 30, because the indoor-outdoor differential temperature is es sentially constant. Closed system efficiency is exponentially dependent on this parameter and it makes a HUGE difference. Here is one I found, there a re bound to be others.
Hot air in our case, but yes, I get your point.
It's awesome, absolutely!! Guy who installed my new HVAC did one for his home. I thought about it, but with all the other changes, the thought of drilling, etc., scared me off. We're on the edge of a lake, good underground water for thermal mass.
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Thanks,
- Win
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