OT: Networking Dropping Out

Might be a DNS problem. Have you ran DNSBENCH to characterize the DNS servers ? Also try setting a DNS address in windows, so that the router does not have to do the lookups.

Cheers

Assuming you ping that directly without DNS lookup then it seems most likely that you are running into a tapit cause by the doubling backoff rule when ethernet packets find themselves corrupted by contention.

Try it with a wired connection to see if it goes away.

Ethernet packet timeout and exponential backoffs resulting from them.

Seems unlikely. It is also suspicious that the router's and modem's own home pages cannot be reached. I'd suspect the router. Cheap fast ones

its Wifi is probably pretty dreadful and insecure so you might well be better off with a newer more capable all in one.

If the PC to router config webpage is inaccessible the chances are the problem is very local indeed. Bad cable or neighbouring RF interference.

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Regards, 
Martin Brown

microwave oven in use nearby?

m

Yes, IP address ping without DNS lookup. "tapit cause"? Not sure what that means. Google doesn't know.

Contention would be hard to justify, 1 attached device. I suppose corruption would do the same thing.

Not so easy to do. I need a 40 foot cable.

Not much here to interfere. One house some 100 feet away with no one in it. Everything else is multiple 100's of feet away. I see their wifi SSIDs once in while, mostly I appear to be alone here.

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Rick C

No, if he's pinging 8.8.8.8 he is not using domain lookup. Also, if he can't ping the modem or router, it has to be the Wi-Fi connection.

Just because there are 5 bars of signal strength doesn't mean the wi-fi channel is clear of interference or other valid traffic. Also, people moving around and other effects can cause the signal path between wi-fi access point and PC to be bad.

Jon

Well, just because there isn't much other wi-fi activity in the area doesn't mean there isn't anything else on that RF channel. So much STUFF is now using the same bands, like remotely-read utility meters, cell phones, utility and public service (police and fire) communications, that it is a miracle any of this stuff works at all. And, of course, a lot of gear radiates tons of interfering signals, some of which have harmonics that range up into the GHz. I just avoid wi-fi completely if I possibly can.

Like at hotels, their wi-fi runs at 10 KBPS, but if I can find how to hook up a wired Ethernet, I get 50 MBPS. If you have a fixed location where you use the computer, run a cable in the ceiling, under the carpet, whatever it takes.

Jon

You aren't getting the picture. I'm nowhere near public service comms towers and the meter is an old one read by a person. Think lands that the Navajo call the boonies!

Cell phone and public service don't share the band with wi-fi at 2.4 MHz. That would cause interference with the cell phones and public service comms in a big way.

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Rick C

Try tarpit.

John

The microwave oven uses the same band, and a 1% leak from 1500W is still

15W. Could it be that someone is cooking dinner?

Run wireshark on your computer and dump the traffic on your local interface---see if there is a rush of traffic, or error packets.

Do try wired connection, just for testing: even if it meant picking up your computer and moving over next to the router.

200 yards away at 2 AM? If someone had a 15 W leak I think they would notice the cataracts.

It doesn't happen all the time. I'd have to let it sit there for hours.

I've ordered a new router and a 50 foot CAT-6 cable. Someone was nice enough to send me an email offering an old router that he isn't using anymore. That was generous.

The one I've ordered is a remanufactured Linksys WRT54GL-RM. It is only old in the sense of not supporting blindingly fast rates. I will do well to get 7 Mbps so it should work for me here just fine. It that craps out as well, I'll start checking the horizon for EMP machines.

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Rick C

Well, there may be systems in the area you are not aware of. Any airports nearby with S-band radars? Area 51, maybe?

Well, joking aside, it may be that the wi-fi modem is just getting ready to die, too.

As for cell phones, a guy driving by using a cell phone in the boonies might have his phone running at max transmitter output, and that could cause receiver overload at either your computer or modem. But, of course, I'm totally guessing.

Jon

Good try, but driving by still means half a mile. Cell phones aren't on the same frequency although they may be close. At that distance the attenuation should be enough to prevent interference. I suppose some of the closer houses could have cell phones or even cordless phones operating, but why wouldn't that affect every wifi device and not just mine?

ANY cell phone in this area will be running at max power.

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Rick C

Typo for tarpit. Basically the exponential backoff really hurts if a burst of interference prevents the resend working many times.

That is why you need to try a wired connection. It will be the first thing your ISP recommends when you report a fault.

40' is nothing. You can do a trailing cat5 cable for a test. It isn't rocket science.

Something is wrecking data transmission. The obvious diagnostic is to use another more reliable connection to the router.

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Regards, 
Martin Brown

It's not??? I'm floored! I don't have a 40 foot cable. As I have written, I have ordered one.

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Rick C

wifi access point is built into the router?

Microwave oven perhaps? how stable is your 60Hz?

Is the powersupply performing to the specs on the label?

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This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software

Yes, isn't that why people use routers? They don't know the router could be separate from the wifi access point.

Huh? I'm not on a diesel generator if that's what you mean. I believe the grid is pretty stable no matter where you are.

Which power supply? The modem, the router or the PC?

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Rick C

There's a thing where wifi tries to dodge the bursts of interferance from microwave ovens, that requires guessing the future, not on a diesel generator is plenty good enough.

The router. we have a WRT54GL at work with a powersupply failure. now running fine on an aftermarket 12W wall-wart. we have the router features disabled (especially DHCP) and only the LAN ports connected

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This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software

As it turns out the WRT54GL is what I bought to replace this one. I had a little trouble installing it. Rather than just give directions they provided a CD and I couldn't get it to work. So I had to cable up to it and with a bunch of trial and error (more error than trial) I got it working. So far it seems to be free of the problem(s) I was seeing. Heck, maybe it was a duff wall wart on the 15 year old Netgear unit. I'm glad to have a newer unit anyway. The WRT54GL has one of those "press this button to setup your wifi" buttons. It didn't seem to work with my PC though. I wonder if it is an older protocol that isn't used anymore.

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Rick C