Getting stubborn solder off an inverter AC board with braid

Oct 19, 2026 Last reply: 1 hour ago 4 Replies
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This project is desoldering work on an inverter air conditioner board where two components have to come off, and the satisfying part is that by the end the solder is finally drawing up into the braid the way it is meant to. Getting solder and amber flux to climb into copper braid under a hot tip is the whole point of the technique, so the final result looks like exactly what the maker was after.



The method followed the usual tutorials: the iron was set hotter than normal, flux went on everything, and desoldering wick was laid across the pads. The maker even added fresh solder to the joints first, to be sure the right places were actually melting, and spread solder over the top of the wick as part of the removal attempt.



What stands out is the persistence. The wick refused to lift solder for a long stretch, and part of the existing solder would not melt at all, which is a miserable state to be stuck in. After taking advice, the maker went with much more flux and brought in an older, dirtier but bigger iron that could reach higher temperatures, and that combination is what finally made the desoldering work. The green board, the copper braid laid across pads near its edge and printed labels such as 5U and test1 make it easy to picture the setup.



The open issue is the tooling. The usual iron's tip is in bad shape, and the maker has said that iron was expensive, costing almost seven percent of a salary, so the plan is to buy a new tip rather than a whole new iron. Whether a fresh tip alone will sort out the stubborn melting looks like the open question to me.


Which two components is the maker changing on this board? I am asking because the braid sits across pads near the edge where labels like 5U, 10, test1 and (P) LR are printed, and it would be nice to know whether the target parts are actually in that row.

Spreading solder on top of the wick is the choice that catches my eye. It goes against the obvious instinct of just pressing braid onto a joint, and on its own it clearly did not save the day, but as part of the mix of tricks it reads to me like decent improvisation under pressure.

My suggestion for the next round: get a brass wool tip cleaner, re-tin the tip before touching the board, and pre-treat both the wick and the pads with liquid rosin flux. If the tip is dirty and oxidized, doing that cleanup first might let the usual iron handle the job without dragging the big old one out.

The maker has not said which two components are being changed, so that part stays unknown. What is on record: extra solder was added to be sure the right spots were melting, and the fix that worked was the older, bigger iron used with much more flux after taking advice. The host device has not been identified either.

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