Tag terminal desoldering technique/s ?

Do you have anything constructive to add? Or are you just posting to see your name in print like Skippy did?

Jeff

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That was my first thought but it's not broken yet, and it's had a few tough twists over the years! Perhaps it's an alloy. It came with my old Weller solder gun over 25 years ago, both still going strong. I only use tin/lead solder so the stainless sewing needle is a good idea (but you don't get that "slot twist".) I'll ask my wife for one, she's from Southsea (not far from you), so pretty resourceful! Cheers, Roger (near Toronto, Canada)

In UK size terms , use a darning needle somewhere between size 5 and 12. Drill an undersize hole in the dowel, insert with glue and bind the end of the wood tightly with wire to reinforce against splitting/opening up.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

I find it an interesting point. We each, separately, have found a way that obviously works or we would try and find another method. But there is no convergence to some outright winning process.

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IMHO, there is no "winning process" because there are too many variables. A 'bag of tricks' is more useful and the appropriate methods applied to the particular situation encountered. Replacing a components [lead] down under a bandswitch is handled far differently than on an 'eye' type terminal strip fully exposed in the middle of the chassis. I think the whole process is called "experience".

Neil S.

Try going to one of the aerospace industry houses here in SoCal and implement some of the yahoo practices of desoldering as described here and condoned by some, and you will be thrown out before you can even blink an eye!

As in soldering, but in reverse, there is methodology and experience in the way one removes components from a circuit.

From milspec procedures, to industry protocol, there is a way of doing this, in the same manner as driving schools teach parallel parking!

Omer

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Indeed! I took the soldering course and was certified. Gosh, that was a lot of years ago, too. However, consumer electronics are not generally built like the military gear that the soldering course was aimed at, and it was assumed that the joint of interest was readily accessable and the support of the terminal was still sound. As you say, Omer, those joints were made, originally, to the strict process methods, and from that were appropriate to the 'un-soldering' methods set out. A flimsy crystalized brass solder tag with too many leads connected to it is not the same thing. If I recall correctly, the biggest thing they harped on in that soldering course was "do not overheat the connection"! That was followed by a good mechanical support and good 'wetting' when re-soldering.

Neil S.

Right. Suppose you tell us all the mil spec procedure (that term is outdated by about twenty years, I believe) so that we don't commit any more grievous mistakes. But "industry protocol" around usenet is bottom posting, so be careful lest you be "thrown out before you can blink an eye."

FYI via Youtube

Omer

Enjoy!

How to Do It: Basic Soldering

Soldering 101

How To Solder PROPERLY

SOLDERCAM! Desoldering diodes

Uh, I know how to solder. I do it for a living. Desolder, too. So I didn't watch your links, but thanks for the effort. Which video is it exactly, that talks about the "mil spec" procedure for desoldering tag terminals? Or is it that you don't have any idea, and you were just blowing smoke with that aerospace talk?

And please stop top-posting.

(snip)

It's the "good mechanical connections" that get us! When I build or refurbish point-to-point "vintage" tube equipment I try for a minimally sound mechanical connection that can be easily undone over the next 100 years by the next custodian. Basically, I bend component wires just enough to stay put while I solder properly (well wetted, no dry joints.) The multiple "wrap-arounders", from OEM to recent restorer, are a big pain! Cheers, Roger

I think that was the mistake I was tending to make. I would really do a good job of attaching the wire mechanically, then solder it. My thought was that the other joints were not done so well because they were being done in a mass production environment. I never had any problems with poor connections on anything that I touched, but I have cursed myself a few times for tying stuff together too well before soldering. Phil

Dontcha just hate to work on a Hallicrafters rig of the "pink capacitor" era with miniature 7/9 pin tubes? Every connection is neatly and tightly wrapped with a proper but minimal application of solder.

Bit of a bear to work on but I can't say I've ever seen parts popping loose in them.

-Bill

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