"Super Dog", Curtis Mathes/Samsung TV model CM27001S, additions

Hi,

Since my previous post (see below), I had performed a few more tests, including a picture tube substitute. Someone (I found via Google) had a similar case in 2003. He replaced the FBTas a last resort, and gave up. Note: I was unable to contact this person.

Please, will someone who had a similar experience with this brand of TV, tell me what you did to fix it..

Thanks Very Much in advance, Brad

PS, I promise, if I fix this "Super Dog", I will post an "Update:" so everyone will know what caused this problem.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PREVIOUS "SUPER DOG" POST:

I have a "Super Dog" Curtis Mathes/Samsung TV model CM27001S (mfg. 11/01) in my shop. I have SM (.PDF file).

I have updated this from my original post and added more information.

The TV will turn on. There is around 27KV (measured) for the CRT. There is vertical deflection and good sound, but just as the picture begins to show, the TV turns off. Note: This happens every time you turn on the TV.

Note: Regulated B+ is 130V (measured). Caps have low ESR. A 200 ohm dummy load on +130V doesn't cause voltage to drop at all.

I unplugged the CRT pcb and the TV stays on. I plugged it back onto the CRT and turn "screen" (FBT) to minimum. I turn on the TV and it says on, but when I turn up the "screen" slowly, just as the picture begins to show, TV turns off. Note: I tested the CRT and it is AOK. I scoped FBT with "screen" turned all the way down. Very good FB pulses which doesn't change at the point the TV turns off (by advancing the "screen"). The "Xray" circuit is NOT the cause (tested).

I opened the ABL line and put a 10K resistor from the FBT ABL pin to ground. The ABL line, now isolated, will be unaffected by FBT/HV trippler "effects". The ABL circuit has a 79K resistor to regulated B+ and a 6.8K resistor to ground which will keep the voltage constant on the now isolated ABL line. With "screen" turned all the way down, the TV stays on. As I slowly advance the "screen", I see a good quality picture for a split second, then the TV turns off.

I disconnected the HV lead from CRT and isolated it so no arcs occur. This in effect, removes a "load" (when picture shows) on the HV trippler/FBT. The TV still turns off.

I opened up the screen circuit on the CRT PCB and used an external adjustable power supply to supply the screen voltage to G2 in the CRT on a chance that if G2 shorts, it wouldn't "effect" shut down, but the blasted TV still turns off. I am just about ready to give up.

Reply to
Brad
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snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net (Brad) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.verizon.net:

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Do you have a "print" to this set ?

Just junk the darn thing, if you don't...

R!

Reply to
R!

Can you swap out the horizontal output transistor and/or the flyback/tripler assembly to isolate the problem? It sounds like something is breaking down under load.

Reply to
Matt J. McCullar

Hi,

Reply to the two who replied, and anyone else:

Please read and comprehend all the details in my post (sorry it is long). If you did, you wouldn't make those suggestions.

Brad

Reply to
Brad

snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net (Brad) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.verizon.net:

Problem:

Set shuts down when screen control advanced enough to show raster (Image) ?

Raster without signal input same yes or no ?

How is the set being shutdown ?

Overvoltage ? PS ?

Overcurrent ? PS ?

Beamcurrent ? PS ?

Vertical Sweep CRT protect ?

Micro Reset ?

X-ray Protect ?

AKB Problem ?

Find what citcuit is triggering the set to shutdown ?

Is the CRT DAG (Outside bell) above ground ?

Since I don't have the service info I can't tell you more ?

I think you mistook my other post, the world does not end if you don't fix this one set...

Is the symcure forum still active ?

It's a pay site for professionals, I have not been there since retirement in 2002 .

Back in the old tube days I spent $47.00 fixing a $69.00 B/W tv just because I did not want anything to beat me (I ended up removing all of the "shotgun" parts and just leaving what the set needed) the customers bill was only ($27.00) I definately lost money on that set but experiance gained probably made me a better tech for it. I got a little older and decided some things were not worth making gray hairs over.

R!

Reply to
R!

Hi R!,

I didn't list every test I did because the post already is very long.

One more thing I am going to try the next time I order parts. I am going to order a TDA6107Q, video amp IC on the CRT pcb. This is the only item left as far as I can tell. I had cases where this IC has caused a shutdown, but I don't have it in stock.

I have thought about this at great length and I wondered about what actually changes when the picture begins to show. Remember, one test, the HV lead was disconnected. With minimum G2 voltage, there is no K (RGB) current in the CRT. When K current begins to flow, the source is coming from TDA6107Q. It may be possible this IC "breaks down"?

Brad

Reply to
Brad

Hi R! and everyone,

I replaced TDA6107Q (video amp IC), but the problem remains.

In all the years I have repaired TVs, this one will be the number one toughest TV I ever tried to fix.

Brad

Reply to
Brad

snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net (Brad) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.verizon.net:

Is the e-mail address at the top of the post valid ?

I did not get a reply...

Note the snipped-for-privacy@mailinator.com is not checked frequently it only holds mail for 24 hrs.

I can't stand the e-mail spam...

I done service work for ~35 years but medical probles have forced me to stop.

R!

Reply to
R!

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