Re: In-window A/C Unit and Current Draw

Yes, you'd have to know what else is plugged in, and it's not a good idea to have them both on the same circuit.

Yup, and the ratings of the circuits etc.

Including the distance covered by the wires? from the service's interface to the outlet?

No need to know what else may be plugged into the circuit, as there is much else to consider first:

a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 wat ts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things. b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a v ery roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard

With these in mind:

Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will kno w what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units h appen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.

Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a renta l, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-nee ded. They will not go to waste.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

It's easy enough to determine if the 2 sockets are on the same circuit. Plug a lamp or radio into both, then flip circuit breakers. If both devices stop, they are on the same circuit.

Peter Wanker puked: =================

( C type breaker)

............ Phil

Not really, the cable should be rated for the distance which in domestic situations is not great.

Result is exactly the same. If the breaker trips - reduce/eliminate the anc illary load(s). Nor can you read for content "AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS". In the USA, C-type breakers are used in specialty applications, generally n ot in a residential setting. Breakers here would be, typically, type A (pla in), GFCI *breaker* (as compared to a GFI *device) and AFCI breakers. Withi n that group are many variants that describe how they are installed. Domestic breakers are available with a "high" current setting that will all ow up to 20X rating for up to one (1) full second. They are expensive. I ha ve used them several times to support wood shops and machine shops for 'hea vy' hobbyists and wood workers. Never for 'regular' stuff.

Point being that nothing changes. Plug in the units - see if the breaker t rips. If it does, adjust the load accordingly. And NEVER run both at the sa me time.

Learn to read.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

You can get an idea of what outlets are on the same branch circuit by fiddling with the fuse box an a sunny day.

Plug something noisy into the intended outlets and pull fuses till it stops.

RL

ch else to consider first:

atts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.

y eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standar d 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.

e plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.

now what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.

t least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a ren tal, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-n eeded. They will not go to waste.

A 20A circuit max rather than a a 15A circuit max on a 240AC residential ho ok up.

a 110 how do I make this work

and under you know.

Plus, The left prong port has a horizontal port for 220 VAC 15-20A or for 1