Pendulum capacitor failing...

Hi Everyone, first time post... Mr. Goldwasser suggested I run this question by this group...

I work at a small college with a bottom electromagnet driven pendulum.

The electromagnet consists of a large coil (.75H) with an iron core and a 10uf capacitor in series with the hot leg (110vac). The pendulum is an 8lb. iron shotput. Works great 24/7 except...

The caps, I've been using (GE 10uf @ 370VAC motor cap), last about 4 months before the circuit becomes "un-tuned" (measured capacitance decreases - pendulum swing gradually increases then will eventually stop and get stuck to the magnet).

I get the best swing using these params... l=.75H, C= 9.7uf, f= 59Hz. (most of the 10uf caps have measured 9.6 - 9.8uf)

My question... can you recommend a higher reliability capacitor, one that might last a few years instead of a few months?

Thank you for your time.

Reply to
dersh.z
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Something like 600V film caps should last nearly forever. You'll probably have to parallel a few to get the capacitance you want, though.

Isaac

Reply to
isw

Most likely the caps are failing because they are being pulsed, or the demand on them is high.

Try using film type capacitors, or high voltage rated ceramic capacitors. You may have to put a number of them in parallel to get the value you want.

Jerry G.

z.

Reply to
Jerry G.

Putting several in parallel would also give him the advantage of being able to fine tune the total capacitance.

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Reply to
Jim Adney

:Hi Everyone, first time post... Mr. Goldwasser suggested I run this :question by this group... : :I work at a small college with a bottom electromagnet driven pendulum. : :The electromagnet consists of a large coil (.75H) with an iron core :and a 10uf capacitor in series with the hot leg (110vac). The pendulum :is an 8lb. iron shotput. Works great 24/7 except... : :The caps, I've been using (GE 10uf @ 370VAC motor cap), last about 4 :months before the circuit becomes "un-tuned" (measured capacitance :decreases - pendulum swing gradually increases then will eventually :stop and get stuck to the magnet). : :I get the best swing using these params... l=.75H, C= 9.7uf, f= 59Hz. :(most of the 10uf caps have measured 9.6 - 9.8uf) : :My question... can you recommend a higher reliability capacitor, one :that might last a few years instead of a few months? : :Thank you for your time.

Data sheet for GE (Regal Beloit) motor run capacitors in the GEM series (which includes the 97F9002)

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Assuming there is very little series resistance (other than the dc resistance of the inductor) you are left with a series resonant circuit which is resonant at approx 58Hz for the values given (L = 0.75H and C = 10uF). I calculate the current through the circuit at more than 6A so it might be dissipating a fair amount of heat depending upon duty cycle. The pulsed nature of the drive voltage might also contribute to premature failure.

Normally, a motor run capacitor is connected across both legs of the ac supply in series with an auxiliary winding in an electric motor in a similar fashion to your circuit but I would hazard a guess that the current through the motor winding would be much less than in your arrangement with 0.75H.

Does the capacitor get hot?

Reply to
Ross Herbert

On Aug 27, 8:45 am, Ross Herbert wrote: Assuming there is very little series resistance (other than the dc resistance of

voltage

to

Thanks Ross, et.al,

The capacitor does get warm but not hot, the coil does get quite hot tho without a cooling fan.

Your calculations are what I get as well, I found this thing swings quite nicely when tuned to aprox. 58-59Hz. The old setup (1960's design) swung about 3ft max @220VAC, I can now get 8ft+ @115VAC... but, I' m having the cap failures at a much higher rate than the old setup. I might have changed the original caps every 10years or so.

Both setups had the cap in series with the coil, the only major change in my setup is the coil - the old coil lost it's smoke, couldn't get it back in... so I had a new coil made. The old coil was hand wound with a solid steel core, this new coil was machine wound (epoxied, etc...) and I used 1/16" (no flux) welding rods tightly bundled into an aprox. 1.25" core diameter (I also have a few brass tubes creating air gaps in the core for forced air cooling from below - will cook without the forced air cooling tubes).

I have been thinking Ceramic but am unsure as to which I should use in this sort of an application. I generally don't do the "industrial" stuff, I'm more of a component level tech - these motor caps are not something I normally deal with.

Thanks to all for the repies, very much appreciated.

Reply to
dersh.z

Are you useing motor start or motor run capacitors?

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Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

voltage

to

Series resonant circuits can generate some pretty high voltages across the coil and cap. Is it within specification for the cap?

The brass tubes are shorted turns and are eating some of your power, can you sub some non-conductive tubes? Or how about leaving a space between the core and bobbin and force the air in coaxially? That would take some of the load off the cap and improve the Q of the circuit.

The cap you refer to seems like just what I would use in that application - polypropylene film has a very low dielectric loss to cause heating, yet you say its getting warm? And you notice the graph showing life versus temperature? (they don't exactly say how it fails, so loss of capacity might be the failure mode)

The circulating current is too high for the cap. Remember they say the conductive film is only a few microns thick - depending on the construction, 6 amps might just be vaporizing parts of the plates.

Like someone else suggested you are probably better off with several smaller caps than one large one. If it still drops in capacity you then have the option of adding a cap every few months - but with more leads and more caps the current through any one cap may be within its current carrying capacity.

Transmitter tank caps are designed for heavy current - but probably don't come in that size. Another cap to look for is called a "commutating" cap (GE does make those too). They are beefed up to present very low resistance and able to withstand high peak currents.

I'd go for multiple smaller (20-50)caps also with polypropylene dielectric material.

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Reply to
default

They are Motor Run caps.

thanks

Reply to
dersh.z

sub some non-conductive tubes?

The brass tubes are in the core, not the coil. Without them, the core gets very hot.

caps than one large one.

Seems easy enough, I will try using several caps instead of just the one.

in that size. Another cap to look for is called a

Thanks, I'll look in to them.

Reply to
dersh.z

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 08:54:50 -0700 (PDT), "dersh.z" put finger to keyboard and composed:

It seems to me that a perfectly tuned LC circuit would require a capacitance of 9.38uF at 60Hz.

2.pi.f = 1/sqrt(LC)

So as the capacitance falls from your initial value of 9.7uF, the circuit becomes better tuned and the current increases. AISI, this increase in current would accelerate the capacitor's failure. Would it not be possible to detune the circuit to an initial frequency of 61Hz and extend the life of the pendulum that way? Would the performance at

61Hz be as good as at 59Hz?

- Franc Zabkar

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Reply to
Franc Zabkar

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 13:45:22 GMT, Ross Herbert put finger to keyboard and composed:

If the circuit current is 6A, then the voltage across the capacitor (and inductor) must be ...

Vc = I x Xc = I x 1/(2pi.f.C) = 1600V

Are you sure your calculation is correct, in which case the capacitor is doomed, or am I visualising the circuit incorrectly?

- Franc Zabkar

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Reply to
Franc Zabkar

sub some non-conductive tubes?

"Without them the core gets very hot" and the coil is cool? If the core is hotter than the coil, it would suggest high hysteresis loss or the diameter of the core wires is too large. I'd use wire diameter of ~ 1-2 mm to limit core loss. Welding rod?

The core wires should also be insulated from one another. If the wire is galvanized - an acid treatment or just leaving them out in the weather for a few months (like electric fence wire - cheap small diameter and galvanized). Throwing iron wire in a BBQ will help form an oxide coating, and will anneal it -soft wire has lower losses than hard drawn wire.

Hard stiff wire has higher hysteresis loss. The wire doesn't switch poles easily so it acts like it isn't there until the magnetic force is high enough to turn it over. A test is to see how much magnetic remanence it has: Stroke a piece of wire with a magnet and see if it becomes a magnetized. If it does, the hysteresis loss will be higher

- annealing the wire helps there.

The iron has higher permeability than air so most of the flux should go though the iron but some will still be dissipated as heat in the brass tubes - larger diameter tubes, higher loss.

Last but not least, the core should protrude from the ends of the coil

- the magnetic lines of force expand as they get to the center of the coil (on the outside of the coil). Stretching the length of the core raises inductance for the same number of turns. I like at least one diameter of core to protrude from each end of the coil and 2D is better - for induction coils.

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Reply to
default

sub some non-conductive tubes?

"Without them the core gets very hot" and the coil is cool? If the core is hotter than the coil, it would suggest high hysteresis loss or the diameter of the core wires is too large. I'd use wire diameter of ~ 1-2 mm to limit core loss. Welding rod?

The core wires should also be insulated from one another. If the wire is galvanized - an acid treatment or just leaving them out in the weather for a few months (like electric fence wire - cheap small diameter and galvanized). Throwing iron wire in a BBQ will help form an oxide coating, and will anneal it -soft wire has lower losses than hard drawn wire.

Hard stiff wire has higher hysteresis loss. The wire doesn't switch poles easily so it acts like it isn't there until the magnetic force is high enough to turn it over. A test is to see how much magnetic remanence it has: Stroke a piece of wire with a magnet and see if it becomes a magnetized. If it does, the hysteresis loss will be higher

- annealing the wire helps there.

The iron has higher permeability than air so most of the flux should go though the iron but some will still be dissipated as heat in the brass tubes - larger diameter tubes, higher loss.

Last but not least, the core should protrude from the ends of the coil

- the magnetic lines of force expand as they get to the center of the coil (on the outside of the coil). Stretching the length of the core raises inductance for the same number of turns. I like at least one diameter of core to protrude from each end of the coil and 2D is better - for induction coils.

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Reply to
default

:> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 08:54:50 -0700 (PDT), "dersh.z" wrote: :>

:> :Hi Everyone, first time post... Mr. Goldwasser suggested I run this :> :question by this group... :> : :On Aug 27, 8:45 am, Ross Herbert wrote: : Assuming there is very little series resistance (other than the dc :resistance of :> the inductor) you are left with a series resonant circuit which is resonant at :> approx 58Hz for the values given (L = 0.75H and C = 10uF). I calculate the :> current through the circuit at more than 6A so it might be dissipating a fair :> amount of heat depending upon duty cycle. The pulsed nature of the drive voltage :> might also contribute to premature failure. :>

:> Normally, a motor run capacitor is connected across both legs of the ac supply :> in series with an auxiliary winding in an electric motor in a similar fashion to :> your circuit but I would hazard a guess that the current through the motor :> winding would be much less than in your arrangement with 0.75H. :>

:> Does the capacitor get hot? : :Thanks Ross, et.al, : :The capacitor does get warm but not hot, the coil does get quite hot :tho without a cooling fan. : :Your calculations are what I get as well, I found this thing swings :quite nicely when tuned to aprox. 58-59Hz. The old setup (1960's :design) swung about 3ft max @220VAC, I can now get 8ft+ @115VAC... :but, I' m having the cap failures at a much higher rate than the old :setup. I might have changed the original caps every 10years or so. : :Both setups had the cap in series with the coil, the only major change :in my setup is the coil - the old coil lost it's smoke, couldn't get :it back in... so I had a new coil made. The old coil was hand wound :with a solid steel core, this new coil was machine wound (epoxied, :etc...) and I used 1/16" (no flux) welding rods tightly bundled into :an aprox. 1.25" core diameter (I also have a few brass tubes creating :air gaps in the core for forced air cooling from below - will cook :without the forced air cooling tubes). : :I have been thinking Ceramic but am unsure as to which I should use in :this sort of an application. I generally don't do the "industrial" :stuff, I'm more of a component level tech - these motor caps are not :something I normally deal with. : :Thanks to all for the repies, very much appreciated.

Stick to polypropylene filmcaps instead of ceramic. I would suggest a better capacitor to use is one made by American Capacitor. The VW2M106K (1000V) which has rated RMS current of 19A and a peak of 2910A with high dV/dT.

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You will have to contact them to get details of purchasing.

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Reply to
Ross Herbert

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 06:01:53 +1000, Franc Zabkar put finger to keyboard and composed:

of

voltage

When I input the OP's numbers into the following QBASIC formulae, I get only 21.3mA for the current. I'm wondering whether I've misunderstood the OP's circuit.

PI = 3.14159265# C = 9.7 * .000001 L = .75 F = 60 W = 2 * PI * F XL = W * L XC = 1 / W / C Z = XL * XL - XC * XC I = 110 / Z VC = I * XC VL = I * XL E = .5 * L * I * I PRINT C, L, XL, XC, Z, I, VC, VL, E

It seems to me that the OP should at least take some measurements to determine what currents and voltages are present in his circuit, especially at or near the time of failure.

- Franc Zabkar

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Reply to
Franc Zabkar

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 02:25:13 GMT, Ross Herbert put finger to keyboard and composed:

It seems to me that choosing a better spec cap is still only delaying the inevitable. IMHO a better approach would be to choose a 9.1uF cap, polypropylene film or otherwise. This assumes that the capacitance required for resonance at 60Hz is 9.4uF. As it is now, the circuit is slightly detuned above its resonant frequency. AFAICS this means that when the 9.7uF cap inevitably degrades, the circuit drifts *toward* resonance, in which case the capacitor's current and voltage both

*increase*, resulting in further degradation and even more drift toward resonance. If, however, the circuit were to be detuned on the other side of resonance, then any degradation would result in a drift *away* from resonance, with a *reduction* in current and voltage, and this would in turn would slow the rate of degradation of the cap.

- Franc Zabkar

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Reply to
Franc Zabkar

:On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 02:25:13 GMT, Ross Herbert : put finger to keyboard and composed: : :>On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:17:39 -0700 (PDT), "dersh.z" wrote: :>

:>:> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 08:54:50 -0700 (PDT), "dersh.z" :>wrote: :>:>

:>:> :Hi Everyone, first time post... Mr. Goldwasser suggested I run this :>:> :question by this group... :>:> : :>:On Aug 27, 8:45 am, Ross Herbert wrote: :>: Assuming there is very little series resistance (other than the dc :>:resistance of :>:> the inductor) you are left with a series resonant circuit which is resonant :>at :>:> approx 58Hz for the values given (L = 0.75H and C = 10uF). I calculate the :>:> current through the circuit at more than 6A so it might be dissipating a fair :>:> amount of heat depending upon duty cycle. The pulsed nature of the drive :>voltage :>:> might also contribute to premature failure. :>:>

:>:> Normally, a motor run capacitor is connected across both legs of the ac :>supply :>:> in series with an auxiliary winding in an electric motor in a similar fashion :>to :>:> your circuit but I would hazard a guess that the current through the motor :>:> winding would be much less than in your arrangement with 0.75H. :>:>

:>:> Does the capacitor get hot? :>: :>:Thanks Ross, et.al, :>: :>:The capacitor does get warm but not hot, the coil does get quite hot :>:tho without a cooling fan. :>: :>:Your calculations are what I get as well, I found this thing swings :>:quite nicely when tuned to aprox. 58-59Hz. The old setup (1960's :>:design) swung about 3ft max @220VAC, I can now get 8ft+ @115VAC... :>:but, I' m having the cap failures at a much higher rate than the old :>:setup. I might have changed the original caps every 10years or so. :>: :>:Both setups had the cap in series with the coil, the only major change :>:in my setup is the coil - the old coil lost it's smoke, couldn't get :>:it back in... so I had a new coil made. The old coil was hand wound :>:with a solid steel core, this new coil was machine wound (epoxied, :>:etc...) and I used 1/16" (no flux) welding rods tightly bundled into :>:an aprox. 1.25" core diameter (I also have a few brass tubes creating :>:air gaps in the core for forced air cooling from below - will cook :>:without the forced air cooling tubes). :>: :>:I have been thinking Ceramic but am unsure as to which I should use in :>:this sort of an application. I generally don't do the "industrial" :>:stuff, I'm more of a component level tech - these motor caps are not :>:something I normally deal with. :>: :>:Thanks to all for the repies, very much appreciated. :>

:>

:>Stick to polypropylene filmcaps instead of ceramic. I would suggest a better :>capacitor to use is one made by American Capacitor. The VW2M106K (1000V) which :>has rated RMS current of 19A and a peak of 2910A with high dV/dT. :>

formatting link
:>

:>You will have to contact them to get details of purchasing. :>

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: :It seems to me that choosing a better spec cap is still only delaying :the inevitable. IMHO a better approach would be to choose a 9.1uF cap, :polypropylene film or otherwise. This assumes that the capacitance :required for resonance at 60Hz is 9.4uF. As it is now, the circuit is :slightly detuned above its resonant frequency. AFAICS this means that :when the 9.7uF cap inevitably degrades, the circuit drifts *toward* :resonance, in which case the capacitor's current and voltage both :*increase*, resulting in further degradation and even more drift :toward resonance. If, however, the circuit were to be detuned on the :other side of resonance, then any degradation would result in a drift :*away* from resonance, with a *reduction* in current and voltage, and :this would in turn would slow the rate of degradation of the cap. : :- Franc Zabkar

I doubt that "losing capacitance" is the only symptom of the capacitor failing in this circuit - it's just that we don't know what else is happening to the capacitor in the application. The only data available for the GE97F9002 cap doesn't give details of rated or peak current or dV/dT rating. All we know is that it is specced as a motor run capacitor. The normal use for this capacitor type is in series connection with a motor winding having considerable inductive reactance across an ac supply where the peak inrush current period is limited and infrequent in nature, and normal operating current is not likely to be anywhere near 6A. The OP is endeavouring to use it in a circuit where it receives frequent high peak inrush current and a large inductive kick when the circuit is broken, at each swing of the pendulum. I doubt that these conditions are ideal for maximising the life of this type of capacitor. While the original GE capacitors might have done the job for 10 years in the OP's first coil design, these later incarnations made by a different process by Regal Benoit may not be as good as the originals - ie. they are built down to a price.

While using a better capacitor might not be the most elegant solution in engineering terms, if it works without having to change the current coil design then it is still an effective solution. My guess is that the GE97F9002 cap doesn't like the constant hammering of pulsed ac operation where the inrush current is surely quite large and the current at resonance is still rather high for a capacitor which is meant to be permanently connected across an ac supply in series with a higher impedance winding than the 0.75H coil, and having a relatively small current swing. The alternative cap I suggested does come with the necessary data and is designed to handle high currents and with a large dV/dT rating. Surely this is a good starting point.

Even if we were to find exactly what the failure mechanism for the GE cap is, it would most likely turn out that a better specced capacitor is the only solution anyway, so why not anticipate this necessity. It might give the electronics perfectionist a warm glow to know exactly why a component fails but in practical terms the end user only cares whether the item works and that it keeps on working.

If the circuit performance doesn't deteriorate over time with the use of a better specced cap it will have proved by empirical method to be an effective solution. If the OP later decides to design a better coil then this cap will be even better suited since it will possibly have to endure even lower stress.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

Using that logic, then while the circuit drifts towards resonance, it tends to degrade faster towards resonance, until it crosses over the resonance point, then degradation slows. (or it fails at resonance!)

Reply to
PeterD

Frank, You made a major mistake calculating things with your program. XL is i*W*L (or j*W*L if you are an EE) which is an imaginary number where i or j = sqrt(-1). Also, XC is

1/(i*W*C) that is again an imaginary number. You need to do the math using complex arithmetic. If the circuit is in exact resonance the current will approach infinity and the voltages across each element will as well. There is obviously series and effective shunt resistance in the circuit elements to keep things within some reasonable bounds at resonance.

David

Reply to
David

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