Peavey Black Widow speaker rebuild

You can probably get the whole cone out of the basket with careful use of a hot air gun. You`ll need to remove the dust dome with a razor knife. When it's all cleaned up refit the magnet assy to the basket, make some shims to go down the inside of the magnetic gap from business card or similar, and refit the cone. Glue the inner spider first, and don't remove the shims till the glue holding the outer suspension has dried. If you made a decent job of removing the dust dome, you can refit it neatly with a bead of something like Bostik clear.

There`s several websites showing how to do it if you`ve never reconed a driver before. If you c*ck it up, take it to Wembley Loudspeakers for a professional repair which will be better than the original.

Good Luck

Ron(UK)

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so sequence is 3 or 4 bits of shims around the outside surface of the voice coil cylinder and into the slot. Glue the cone to frame and when cured, remove the cards and glue back the skirt. I have a can of silicone spray for sewing machinists cutting out tables, spray some of that onto the inside surface of the voice coil cylinder ?

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

More than 3, most recone kits include 10 or 12 thin shims, but as many as you can comfortably slide into the gap without forcing it. Better to have lots of narrow ones than a few wide ones. And they go on the inside of the coil former, that`s why you have to take the dust dome off.

Don't remove the shims till the outer suspension is glued.

Assemble the voice coil and shims without adhesive, get a feel for how the coil former will slide down into the gap with the shims in place, you have to get it right first time.

Apply contact adhesive to the basket and rear suspension (spider)where they mate, then slide the voice coil down into the gap with the shims in place. the spider should adhere almost immediately.

Leave that to set, then - leaving the shims in place - glue around the outer suspension, and stick it to the basket. let it cure then slide out the shims, and if you did it right, there will be no scraping. Once you resolder the pigtails you can run a low frequency sine wave through it to check, but not too high power!

If all is well, drop the dust dome in and run a bead of bostik around it

- you can use evostik but it can get stringy, even PVA glue works.

Don't spray anything in the magnetic gap, it`s not necessary and could lead to problems later, the voice coil should never come into contact with the pole pieces.

Some horn drivers and tweeters have viscous liquid in the gap, either a ferrofluid or some other gooey liquid, but if it wasn't there to start with, don`t experiment...

The foam in the vent is just there to keep the dust out, and to help prevent any chuffing at low frequencies, it`s not critical, but don't use foam that is too dense, it relies on air passing in and out of that vent to cool the coil.

Hth

Ron(UK)

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The 0.08mm thick aluminium dome must have been press-formed (or that very hands-on turning type process that I forget the name of) with a cylinder extension to the dome and the cylinder section is glued to the inside of the VC former. So had to cut around the dome to remove and have to hope the final gluing-back holds up against the air pumping process. I'm thinking of some golf tees in the rim mount holes to give sliding alignment with the holes in the periphery of the cone on re-assembly.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

Spinning perhaps?

That`s partly why there`s a hole through the magnet, some speaker manufacturers put a hole in the dome. If the original dome is damaged, Wembley Loudspeakers will sell you one. If you're worried about cosmetics, fit a larger dome to hide the remains of the old one.

Just line it up properly in the first place :)

Ron(UK)

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Yes metal spinning.

Golf tees are too small but 4 ball point pen barrels temporarily glued to the extreme rim should be ideal as a nice sliding fit with the cone. I will add black dyestuff to the glue to fix dome back. Dome and inner edge of cone masked off close to the glue/cut line, with tape, should be neat enough. I'll just have to make sure its pastey enough not to drip inside, through the scalpel cut line.

And I won't add gooey stuff in the way of silicone film to the VC cylinder

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

No need, just run a bead of clear bostik around the dome in one operation, and it`ll look like it`s never been apart. you`ll probably damage either the cone or the dome pulling the masking off. And dont worry too much about the rim holes being in perfect alignment, new cones don't even have the holes when they are supplied. You make them later with a scalpel. In fact, some new speakers don't have the holes in the paper, some give you a choice of mounting holes.

Ron(UK)

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In the end I just used the pens with some clothes pegs to give a bit more clearance gap for laying down the glue. Removed them prior to dropping the cone in case they gave some bias. Cone and spider glueing process complete, now a wait for a couple of hours before removing the shims. I'm just wondering how much the "monocoq" construction of the Ali dome plus cylinder gives circular stiffness/precision, that my cutting it has destroyed.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

Well it passed low power 20Hz test driving with only pressure waves and not undue extraneous noises. Unfortunately the owner has the cab.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on