More on freezer problems

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> > hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote: > >After I commented on a freezer post last week, my ancient Sears > >Coldspot freezer has been acting up. Before I unload everything so > >that I can move it, and hopefully find a wiring diagram on the back, I > >would like a generic wiring diagram so I can see what possible > >connections might be. I can get to the defrost timer on the front > >lower panel, and plan on checking it out, but also curious what other > >connections might be. > > >It doesn't have to be a Sears freezer, any old wiring diagram that > >includes a defrost thermostat would be appreciated. It would help to > >confirm what I am expecting. > > Is it frost free? On a Whirlpool refrig., the defrost thermostat is a > high temperature (70 degrees F) cutout. I assume only comes into effect > when things are out of whack. It's in series with the defrost heater, > clipped to one of the brackets that hold the evaporator coils. > > You should be able to ohm out the heater+defrost circuit at the timer > if the guts are buried down in a hard to get place. > > Mark Zenier snipped-for-privacy@eskimo.com > Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

Thanks to all commenters.

I finally got enough stuff out of the freezer to be abe to moce it, it was in an alcove and really miserable to move on a carpeted floor after 20 years in the same position.

Anyway, I was finally able to catch the unit at a temperature of 30 degrees with the timer in the run position, not the defrost position, and the compressor not running. A tap on the thermostat and the compressor started right up and took the temperature down to zero over several hours. So, the problem is surely the thermostat. Now I want to wait until I can move some more of the food out and then replace the thermostat if I can't get at the contacts to polish them. Them a lot of careful monitoring to make sure everything is really ok. I will also replace the timer on general principles, it is at least 25 years old and for $25.00 my local parts store has a replacement. Even if the new unit is mostly plastic, I feel better with a new timer.

Thanks again for suggestions, etc.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

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hrhofmann
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I once bought a Sears chest type top door freezer.That piece of junk ran ok for about two or three years.Then I took it somewhere to get it fixed.A few days later, that Sears piece of junk quit working again.Those so-called ''freezers'' are not worth wasteing your money on.Nowadays, neither are kitchen refrigerators.JUNK.And Maytag? Forget Maytag eveythings.Buy a Whirlpool. cuhulin

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cuhulin

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