Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid? on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.
I think I've run into "flaming" stupid before. That would melt teflon. Many years ago a guy handed me a short wave radio to repair adding, "I noticed that all the screws in those "can things" and holes were loose so I tightened them all for you". After we discussed what a full alignment, in addition to whatever repair he was bringing it in for in the first place would cost, he left with his radio and his tail between his legs.....Lenny
I've run into 'tweakers' before busting the slugs in the cans not knowing their ass from a hole in the ground about what they were doing. I fixed up a couple, removing the busted slugs, chipping them out in pieces that took hours. And cost them dearly. Those were for classic autos that the owner wanted to keep original, and where the cost of replacing busted slugs and alignment was cheaper than finding a replacement.
I've had them walk in the shop with the coil from an IF transformer where they used an old Allen wrench. It cracked the cores, but they kept turning till they ripped the leads of the coil form. The funniest was some idiot who called to see what we charge to fix a car radio, and told us he wouldn't pay our service rate. The next day he walked into the shop with the electrolytic from a mid '60s Delco solid state AM radio that he had literally ripped out of the radio with a pair of channel lock pliers, with part of the PC board still attached. He told us that he wanted to buy a 'vibrator'. "My daddy used to fix the radio in his 55 chevy all the time, and he told me that it's always a bad vibrator!" He didn't believe that his radio didn't have a vibrator, or that the radio wasn't worth fixing. He must have taken it to every shop in town after that, because we got calls from just about every other shop in the area, telling us about the idiot with the damaged electrolytic. :)
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid? on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
I had a choice of bringing my tools, parts and manuals, or the radios. I made a lot more money from using the tools. I hauled a little over 17,000 pounds of tools, parts and manuals 1,000 miles, in two trips. :)
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid? on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
I have, i think, an old vibrator tester that plugged into a tube tester. It had two lamps sticking out of the side. The vibrator was bad if they glowed equally or didn't glow at all.
I made two trips in a stepvan, for under $150. It took several weeks on each end to load and unload the truck, so a semi would have been out of the question.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid? on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
Our TV set was made by Hallicrafters, back when Chicago was the world hub of the consumer electronics industry. At the same time, we had a Webcor phonograph and a Zenith radio. My father later bought a Webcor wire recorder second-hand, followed by a Wollensak tape recorder. The Jensen Speaker division of the Muter Company was within walking distance of our house. Then my parents got an Admiral portable TV for their bedroom. I briefly had a Sherwood stereo receiver, and, at the height of the CB craze, a Cobra CB transceiver. Only Cobra survives as a Chicago-based company today, although Hallicrafters continues to exist as part of the defense contractor Northrop Grumman.
Ahh the good old days. My first SW transceiver was a Heath SB-101 purchased at a hamfest back in 1990 for $80 bucks with PSU. It was in excellent cosmetic shape but needed a pair of 6146 output tubes and a couple others. Back then replacements were pretty cheap I think I ended up with around $40 more in it to get it back to working specs.
I've owned two or three Halicrafters receivers over the past 35 years. And a couple really decent Radio Shack SW receivers.
Back in the late 50's my dad built a Heathkit CB. If I recall you plugged the crystals right in the front. Had had someone put up a 40 foot tower with a 5 element Mosley yagi beam. I guess I can credit that for my start in electronics, watching dad put that thing together and talking 'skip' on it. There were a few locals that also has Cb radios back then. I can even remember my dad's call sign.
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Mopar model 812 car radio (Early 1950's Chrysler )=E2=80=8E - I got this se= t working and it actually works pretty well too. The vibrator buffer cap though =E2=80=A6 Apr 20
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.33ohm dual emitter resistors=E2=80=8E - Klem- I checked my inventory, turn= s out the resistors I have are .22 ohm/5w. They should work =E2=80=A6 Apr 13
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WA#1735520=E2=80=8E - Jen Please send me a main for this set. Thank you. Le= nny On 4/1/11, snipped-for-privacy@sanyotv.com =E2=80=A6 Attachment Apr 1
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techsupport
Re: Two WRA's: 1728064=E2=80=8E - Lenny, If TV makes a pop sound and goes o= ff you will need to check voltages on connectors to see =E2=80=A6 Mar 24
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Re: Driveway sensor, model 917-1, mfg. around 1993 by "Detector Systems"=E2=80=8E - On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 12:27 PM, klem kedidelhopper wrote =E2=80=A6 Attachment 12/9/10
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=E2=80=B9 Newer 9 of 108 Older =E2=80=BA Mopar model 812 car radio (Early 1950's Chrysler )
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klem kedidelhopper I know that this is off topic and I hope that its not a problem. It seems lik...
Apr 19 (13 days ago) Jerry S You can try cleaning all the contact points. One set acts as an interrupter o...
Apr 20 (13 days ago) Reply | klem kedidelhopper to tv-repair
show details Apr 23 (9 days ago)
Thanks everyone for the response and thank you Eric for the Sams. I just came home from the hospital after having my hip replaced so I've been away from my repairs and this group for a few days. Lucky my shop is in my home so when I do feel like it I can try to get back to work. I did get the vibrator to vibrate and the radio to work somewhat before I left. Possibly it was the rapping on the can that started it up. I also had some buzzing in the speaker and bridged an electrolytic accross one of the terminals of the three section cap in the radio which improved it. So I'll replace that and possibly cut the vibrator open when I feel better. I remember doing that MANY years ago. Wow this thing draws 6.50 amps at 6,0 volts! I guess it HAS been a long time....Lenny
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show details 12:07 PM (9 minutes ago)
I got this set working and it actually works pretty well too. The vibrator buffer cap though shows very slight leakage and I would like to replace it. The original is a .0047mfd@ 1600V. I know that the cap and transformer make up a kind of "tuned circuit" on these old radios but I'm not sure how critical that was. I have a nice mylar .0056mfd@
2000V in my parts box and I although I wouldn't think so, I wonder if that might be too far off from the OEM value to do the job. Thanks, Lenny
I'm really sorry guys. It looks like somehow almost everything I've written over the past few weeks was (for want of a better term) "vomited" into my last post, (which incidentally never even appeared Here it is:
I got this set working and it actually works pretty well too. The vibrator buffer cap though shows very slight leakage and I would like to replace it. The original is a .0047mfd@ 1600V. I know that the cap and transformer make up a kind of "tuned circuit" on these old radios but I'm not sure how critical that was. I have a nice mylar .0056mfd@
2000V in my parts box and I although I wouldn't think so, I wonder if that might be too far off from the OEM value to do the job. Thanks, Lenny
We always used the exact value, but you may get away with it. A lot of part warranties required it to be the exact value, and the capacitor was cheaper than the vibrator or the transformer. They were capacitors rated for buffer service, as well.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid? on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
The cap across the vibrator is to suppress sparking of the reed switch contacts. Like a cap in an old auto distributer with points. They will both pit quickly and eventually fuse together if the cap isn't present. The .0056 should work fine.
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