IP camera repair - "on board" battery vs 'wallwart' power supply & ability to 'take' settings/reset

I have two 'old' IP ('network') cameras, neither of which seems to be able to 'take and hold' a reset to factory defaults. I followed the procedure outlined in their owners manual. interestingly, both cameras (an axis 2100, and an axis 2120) have an on-board battery (CR2032 3 volt), which their respective manuals -don't- mention (anywhere). matter of fact, not only are the batteries unmentioned, but they give no instruction on how to open their cases (which was neccessary to discover they HAD batteries).

I used the the 'wallwart' power supply to reset (or 'try to reset') both cameras back to their factory defaults. after following the reset procedures to the letter, the cameras should have (supposedly) their IP addresses reset (back to their defaults) but I can't "find" the cameras, no matter what I try. so, I'm clutching at straws here...

I realize the 'common sense' answer to the following question, but I'd like to hear your opinion:

let's say my onboard battery is stone dead (which I expect they are), but I want to reset my camera back to its original factory defaults, following the recommended procedure. if I follow the recommended procedure while never UNplugging the camera from its "wall wart" power supply, shouldn't the camera "return to" it's original default IP address and hold that default IP address *ASSUMING* I've never unplugged the wall power supply adapter from the camera?

or, put another way: is a "known good" on-board CR2032 battery REQUIRED for any reason in order to MAKE the camera reset? I realize a good on-board battery is required to *maintain* the new (or "returned to default") settings once the camera is unplugged from its wall-wart power supply, even for a moment, but that's *not* the question...

thanks guys,

toolie dave

ps- a more detailed discussion of the procedures I've tried can be found here:

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can't assign an IP. axis cameras 'unseen' by XP & axis a - IP Camera Forum

Reply to
dave
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After reset the camera software might perform a reboot and load back the settings from the NV memory which is powered by the batteries. You can see the status of these batteries by measuring their voltage, if discharged I would try a good one.

Reply to
Jeroni Paul

m

Go back and Check "All" Connections w/meter. good luck j.

Reply to
joesmith

If you don't have a multimeter to test the batteries, just install new ones and try again. Then report back. No one here is going to know the answer unless they have actually worked on that or a similar unit, which is not all that likely. All the speculation in the World won't solve this problem.

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Reply to
Samuel M. Goldwasser

In message , Jeroni Paul writes

It's only powered from battery when there's no external power.

It's entirely possible that the battery is only used to hold a time/date value and that the configuration is held in EEPROM which doesn't rely on a battery to keep its contents. Finding out how to perform a factory reset would be useful in this case.

Once the OP has done that, as another poster suggested, use a crossover cable to connect it directly to a PC, setting the PC's IP address/subnet mask to be in the same subnet as the factory default for the camera. If that fails then contact Axis Tech support.

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Clint Sharp
Reply to
Clint Sharp

ok, guys, thanks for the info :-)

while you guys are still here, anybody familiar with THIS particular type

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of CR2032 on-board battery holder? (both of my cameras use -this- holder). so far, to remove one of the batteries, I've tried:

"thumbnail stretching" the battery holder (upper black tab in this image) wider to help extract it. seems only able to stretch about 50% wide enough to allow removal - I'm not eager to risk 'busting' the holder.

also tried lifting (lower center in this image) the silver tab with thumbnail, result being it doesn't seem "lift highable enough" to remove the battery (without exceeding the elastic limit of the thin metal, anyway)

so now I'm contemplating: heating old butterknife red with blowtorch, and using the hot tip to 'push over and off' the upper black tab (or possibly to just cut it back 50% or so)

alternate approach: razor-knifing the upper black 'ear' shorter, or maybe dremeling it shorter (or maybe "down flat entirely").

idea: anybody think the lower silver ear might be able to be removed

-entirely- straight upward *if* I insert, say, the end of a paper clip in the lowermost square hole below the center of the ear 'clip', and push down there while pulling UPward on the silver ear?

and, yeah, i -do- see (what I think are) two 'pry slots' one on each side of the lower silver 'downforce' clip (but, still, it seems prying it up THERE would permanently BEND the chrome ear)...

some sites 'advise' removing the holder (and the battery within) @the same time by unsoldering the holder 'as a unit' from the board with a soldering iron...bubba here not eager to try removing the holders

-entirely- to change the batts unless it's abso-tively neccessary In message

Reply to
dave

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I'd cut back that plastic keeper until I could just pry the battery out. Once out, I would G E N T L Y reform the metal contact tang to be as tight as possible. Then, insert the new battery. You could possibly apply a dollop of hot glue on the battery at and over the plastic keeper. Any G forces large enough to dislodge the battery would probably cause permanent damage to some other component/function of the camera, anyway.

YMMV & HNY Jonesy

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  Marvin L Jones    | jonz          | W3DHJ  | linux
   38.24N  104.55W  |  @ config.com | Jonesy |  OS/2
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Reply to
Allodoxaphobia

Lift spring tab/contact slightly, and lift that end of battery to above the base of the holder. Slide battery towards spring tab, past the retaining tab on the other side. Lift the side opposite the spring tab/contact and slide battery out.

Reinsert in reverse of the above.

Reply to
PeterD

In message , PeterD writes

Actually, looks like the plastic tab at the top of the pic hinges like a latch on a DIMM/SIMM socket to me but...

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Clint Sharp
Reply to
Clint Sharp

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