How to repair plastic seal for liquids used in human consumption?

Apr 10, 2010 20 Replies

Apologies for being slightly OT, but you people know a lot.



I have a Hamilton Beach Brew Station Deluxe coffee machine. Great machine, but after 2 years heavy use, it has started to leak. The coffee pot is made with two pieces - bottom plate was inserted.



There in lies the problem. Multiple heating and cooling cycles have cracked open this bottom seal causing the coffe to leak down inside, then out onto the counter top.



What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve the requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed by humans?



Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? Doubt it, but need confirmation.



How about acetone to rejoin the plastic?



Anybody know the plastic used and the best way to reseal?


Buy a new pot on ebay or from the manufacturer.

Silicone adhesives, as far as I know, are not particularly toxic in the first place, and I doubt a properly cured bond would leach.

Superglue isn't stable. It can be weakened simply by contact with water.

I'm inclined to agree with the poster who suggested buying a new pot.

This coffeemaker has a nonreplaceable 'pot' as part of its stationary assembly.

The short answer: your crack has coffee residue inside it, only complete disassembly and cleaning to prep it for cementing will work. The kind of cement that works best, depends on the (unknown) formula of the original plastic. The manufacturer didn't find a reliable enough glue.

Maybe RTV silicone would work; you have to ensure it wets the plastic, and assemble with no voids. There may be some tiny amount of catalyst (toxic) in the mix, but only a small amount of the 'skin' of the glue joint will be exposed to the liquid, so it'd be a microgram quantity... I'd rinse a few times before using, but not worry otherwise. Heck, copper is 'toxic' but all my piping is made of it.

Short answer: GFGI

Medium answer: A search of "food grade adhesive" turns up some likely candidates. This looks promising:

Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

Go to a pet store and get a tube of aquarium seal. It's a silicone adhesive (which of itself is totally nontoxic), plus whatever is used for a catalyst won't harm fish, even after very long exposure in non-changing water. If it won't hurt them, it sure won't hurt you.

Clean all the surfaces with something like a "green scrubber", and apply the silicone as a decent-thickness fillet. You can smooth the stuff with a finger wetted with mineral spirits (which will evaporate by the time the silicone is cured).

Isaac

isw wrote in news:isw-5DD6AD.00274012042010@[216.168.3.50]:

....

In an aquarium, the sealant is not in contact with hot (near boiling) water. I would not rely on 'safe at room temperature' as an indication of 'safe at elevated temperatures' and would distrust any company that did so without extensive testing.

bz 73 de N5BZ k please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an infinite set.

Then call GE ("We bring goo things to life") and ask.

(Forgive me for trying to be clever, but if you don't get /that/ one...)

what did we do to deserve this PUNishment?

e

r.

2nd attempt at replying...

Thanks! this looks exactly right. works up to 200C, costs like $4.25 per tube

only caveat may be that the adhesive won't stick to this plastic. But might still work as a 'filler' type gasket.

Robert Macy wrote in news:cd57f5e4-cc4c-43c5-bdab- snipped-for-privacy@j21g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

sounds like a new flavor (the pun-ish mint)

bz 73 de N5BZ k please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an infinite set.

Anyone working in electronics deserves lots of PUNishment.

Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'

You can rely on the known characteristics of silicone rubber.

Isaac

I have some goo that I brougt to life once. Devoured an entire town of

200 people before I could get it stopped...

I think the OP needs to realize that there is no solution to his problem--he needs either to replace it or give up, there is likely no suitable repair method that will make even a semi-pernament repair, likely anything he does will fail in a few uses.

And as you say, something safe at room temperature sure as shooting is likely to fail on all counts, including toxic byproducts, when heated!

I'm not sure about that. Silicones are highly stable, and the boiling point of water is hardly a high temperature. Many carbon-based organic compounds are stable at those temperatures. (Boiling pasta, for example, doesn't cause it to disintegrate.)

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in news:hq1nto$drs$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

but boiling pasta DOES 'denature' the chemicals making up the uncooked pasta.

Cooked food is definitely different chemically from uncooked food.

bz please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an infinite set.

I just don't belong to the the "throw away" philosophy group. Or, the 'if it doesn't work right, buy something different" group. What amazes me is that last group never asks for a refund for the first purchase, but is willing to just continually throw money at a problem.

You're talking to a guy that spent three hours to fix an $8 hair dryer, which went on to work for longer than it did before the first breakdown.

back to the coffe pot: no reason to trash all when a simple seal around the bottom will suffice.

and Rich Webb's suggestion of using that Silicone Unlimited SU5005 RTV adhesive, FDA approved, good to 200C, costs $4.25 a tube sounds like it's worth trying. Thanks again, Rich.

Roger that. Their blurb makes it sound like it can glue air to water but I suspect that you may need to roughen up or undercut the split gasket a bit to give it something to bite on to.

I'm a fixer-upper also, but I will admit to a guilty pleasure if I can strip something for (potentially, maybe, someday) useful parts...

Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

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