High pitch whine from flyback xformer

Hello;

After rebuilding the SMPS inside my 32" Zenith Z32X31D the other day (lightning killed it); The past couple of days I been noticing a very loud ear-piercing high pitch whine coming from the flyback transformer and when I apply a small amount of pressure to the side of the flyback transformer (using a insulated screwdriver) it stops making the noise, then when I let go it starts back up again. So it seems when pressure is applied to it; it will shutup. I think heat the expansion of the ferrite core; triggers it maybe?

I sometimes hear this distinct sound when I am in stores around the TV section. I noticed it ALWAYS made this noise since the day I bought it, usually when the TV is first turned on for a few minutes, then it would stop. But it's louder now than ever. Should I replace the capacitors in the H.O.T. section also? Thanks for any feedback

Reply to
forkliftcontrols
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It's not usually the flyback, but you MAY have to unsolder it, & press it down firmly to the pcb while soldering it, or hot glue the ferrite bar on it. You have to remove the flyback, SMPS, & pincushion transformers, & coils, & coat them with hot glue. It may be misleading to find out which one is causing it, as touching the board, in different locations may lead you to find the wrong part causing it. Carefully, with the set running...if you are a Tech, use an insulated, plastic, or wooden stick, & gently touch each coil, & transformer, just enough to stop the high pitch ringing. Dani.

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Reply to
Dani

The intermittent flyback squeal in my Sony WEGA is driving me nuts, too. Just haven't gotten around to opening it up -- banging on the front bottom of the case kills the noise for a while (when the set's being nice). Sometimes these damned epoxy-encased IFBT's start singing when the potting cracks internally (where u naturally cannot get at in order to effect repair). Many times you can indeed resolve the squeal with nothing but glue and/or solder in the right places, but sometimes there's no choice but to replace the flyback.

A useful tool I 'made' for isolating mechanical intermittents is sort of a mini rubber mallet -- it's an audio cassette pinch roller pressed on the end of a not-too-rigid nylon coil alignment driver. Simple (and cheap) but effective. Gently tapping suspect components with this often zeroes in on the source. As others have said, this is potentially misleading if you have, for example, bad solder joints on or in close proximity to the device being struck. But this tool seems to work pretty well in many cases.

Reply to
Ray L. Volts

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