glass epoxy ?

I think the temperature may be too high for epoxy.

If the covers are plastic, perhaps a solvent can be found that will "weld" the pieces together.

What about fiberglass tape?

Fred

No. Halogens run very hot and G10/FR4 will scorch or crumble. Try sheet aluminum roof flashing. Paint it glossy white to reflect the heat. See examples in Luxo and Ledu desk lamps and overhead track lighting.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

I haven't checked, but for many a halogen desk lamp, it looks like the glass is about the same size.

So look for a scrap halogen lamp, and see if you can do a transplant. It won't cost anything.

Michael

Halogen lights emit significant UV light. I think the cover glass for them is UV-absorbing, and you don't want to use just any random glass.

uh the bulb is a small incandescent of flashlight bulb size running on 12 volts.

There is a halogen assembly with glass missing

I'm looking at trying a temperature analysis.

The repair field is not in epoxy. Locktite suggests 350F for $24 then searching thru Google I remembered furnace cements leading to silicone furnace gasket cements leading to

also 'flexible furnace cements' probabbbly paintable with a temp sealer

both meant for metallic expansions not brick

so the repair is possible.

Ummm... by "light cover" do you mean a lamp shade, luminaire, lens, or glass plate as used these fire hazards? I thought you meant the thing (luminaire) that covers the light.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

If it's really glass, sodium silicate (a.k.a. water glass or egg preserver) might do the trick.

Isaac

AE6KS

AMAZING internet finding

Light Source: Bulb: Par 36 (4411-3) 12v Designed at 12.8v, 2.9 amp, 35 watt, 2500 cp

Source: Bulb: Par 36 (4411-3) 12v Designed at 12.8v, 2.9 amp, 35 watt, 2500 cp

maybe buy 2 more...prob is the rubber case is not easily removed....forces in eg tire rim removal exceed what I expect from the glass edge.

the light is abaft the platform roof rack on my van, on a 1x3" stalk reacha ble if you're hungry or insane and 6' from the rear bumper...the ;ight is good and for $8.

There's a $35 Hella incandescent utility lamp on the shelf but....I see loo king now for the $8 9N Model LED's should be within reach by spring.

Expansive backup lighting with LED running light flashers, BEEP BEEP ER and a recording calling

is AAA at MacDonalds, Yellowstone and Venice.

The man with the stuck button should try CRC Contact Cleaner from Walmart. Hold keyboard upside down, spray, toothbrush, and wiggle then spray again. Let dry upside down for an hour.

AE6KS

oh yeah. I have gramlins breaking in wiring hot to ground. In repairing this last time before chaining doors, measured a 14' run with 8Ga then 10Ga with 12Ga for 12' more at 12.65V off 13V at the Odyssey battery...via Powerstreams calculator.

The roof horn blat blat blat deteres vandals so the pro vandals broke in disconnecting the system.

Where the extra wire comes from ....

After going thru the calculator all 5 roof lights, alarm horn went with individual 10Ga power supply and grounds. The foot dimmer switch 6 relay board disconnecting ground for 4 driving lamps impresses the curious.

There a relay box for 10Ga to the Hella headlamp units but need to work in a fail safe back up to the driving lights. The Hella headlamps hi beams maybe straving with Frod wires.

So I dida jig for a minute after measuring 12.65

I haven't sat behind the light bar LED systems. The smooth even flow of light onto the road surface is impressive from outside. Using the LED bar in rain on a dark road surface is an improvement over white halogens ?

As with bike lights....we would believe someone has worked out an answer for an obvious problem...