Garage door clicker retraining procedure

What, if anything, have you Googled?

Is that legal in the UK?

google the words "MJN321 manual"

If you've changed the lighting source near or on the door opener, this can prevent operation. Older mechanisms may not function if fluorescent lamps are substituted for previous incandescent. LED subs are probably OK.

RL

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 09:55:50, Mike Coon snipped-for-privacy@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote: (my responses usually follow points raised):

?q=clicker+garage+door+opener+reset&t=ffab&ia=web Examples are The solution wasn't in any of those (for example, there is no learn button).

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 13:55:07, legg snipped-for-privacy@nospam.magma.ca> wrote: (my responses usually follow points raised):

When I saw this I finally realized it was two concurrent things, and that was one of them only.

There's a loud buzzing fluorescent light with four bulbs and two 8inx4in ballasts which recently started to buzz.

The training procedure was also reversed.

When I did either one of those fixes, nothing happened. But when I did both (turn off the light & reverse the sequence), it worked!

Thank you for your kind help. The training procedure is here.

Clicker: FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz MJN is the company. The 321 depends on the company.

Stanley Deluxe 1/2 HP, model 3205 Board: Stanley FCC ID A9K9KG RCOMBO model 3045-01, frequency 310 8845 A9K is the company. The 9KG depends on the company.

How does a ballast buzz? Does it have moving parts?

Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz? If I can hear the buzz, it must be higher than 200Hz (or maybe even more given my old ears so I'll double that without knowing the frequency).

Assuming the buzz is 400 hertz, what's in a fluorescent light at 400 Hz? Is there a frequency meter we can put on a phone to test the frequency?

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 11:33:16, Adrian Caspersz snipped-for-privacy@here.invalid wrote: (my responses usually follow points raised):

Finding the manual wasn't the problem because the hangup turned out to be two things that aren't in the manual and both were necessary.

The manual is here if you need it though.

1 Stanley Locate your systems code switch positions from an original hand held remote or the motor unit receiver.

If the switch is "on" or "up", place a 1 in the corresponding box in the TABLE below.

If the switch is "off" or "down",place a 3 in the corresponding box in the TABLE below.

CODE SWITCH SEQUENCE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ON/UP 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 OFF/DOWN 3 3 3 3 3 0 0 0 0 0

Clicker switch left button is S1, middle button is S2, right button is S3 oriented with the keychain opening toward you and wth the three buttons the furthest away from you facing up so that the one red led light can be seen.

PROGRAMMING Before you begin programming the Clicker, select which button you want to operate your garage door opener. After completing a step, you have 15 seconds to proceed to the next step.

Step 1: Press the 1st and 3rd buttons down simultaneously and hold until the red indicator starts to blink.

Release both buttons.

Wait for the red indicator to stop blinking.

Step 2:

Press the button you want to operate your garage door opener: Stanley press the button 1 time; Multi-Code press the button 2 times.

Wait for the red indicator to blink the same number of times.

Step 3:

Using the code switch sequence from the table above, press and release the button that corresponds with the number in each column until the entire code has been entered into the Clicker.

Immediately after the code is entered, the indicator light will blink (once for Stanley; twice for Multi-Code).

Programming is complete.

To test press the button you selected to activate the garage door.

If programming is unsuccessful, reverse code from TABLE above. (Change 1 to 3; 3 to 1) Stanley brands - try as Multi-Code. Multi-Code brands - try as Stanley Repeat Steps 1-3 above.

Loose laminations

only on a small scale (see above)

Hopefully 50Hz unless you've moved ...

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 17:48:25, Andy Burns snipped-for-privacy@andyburns.uk wrote: (my responses usually follow points raised):

Must be that then. Maybe my ears are better than I thought. I typed this procedure to tape on the top of the unit.

You observe the number side labeled 1 thru 10; not on side labeled OPEN. The definition of "DOWN" is the position of height where a pen pushes it in. If the pen pushed one side in, that side is DOWN; the other side is UP. There is a hump which is the UP side; a shallow depression is the DOWN side.

Clicker switch left button is S1, middle button is S2, right button is S3 oriented with the keychain opening toward you and with the three buttons the furthest away from you facing up so that the red led light can be seen.

Simultaneously press & hold (and keep holding) S1 & S3 until the LED blinks and eventually stops blinking (in about 13 seconds when I did it). Only when it stops do you let up on the button (contrary to instructions). You have only fifteen seconds to initiate the next step. Press and hold the desired S# button until LED blinks once (this took about 5 seconds when I did it). At that blink, let up on the button (contrary to instructions). You have only fifteen seconds to initiate the next step. Press once each S1 or S3 button to enter the desired code in sequence. For example: S3 S3 S3 S3 S3 S1 S1 S1 S1 S1 Immediately upon that final press the LED will blink once. The desired button is now programmed.

Maybe it is generating harmonics, a bit like an insect stridulating. "Buzz" does not indicate a pure tone. Plus the laminations will attract each other on both half-cycles...

Actually, for reasons I'm not quite understanding, that "60Hz" (or 50..) "hum" is usually, actually, buzzing at _120_Hz (or 100).

Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling effect.

Given the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?

Yes -- in time viewed over either minutes, days, years, or epochs. :-)

Jonesy

Yeah, very slowly; strain in the metal parts can accumulate and change the magnetic properties of the laminations. By 2322, you'll notice that difference...

Invest a small amount to be held in trust for an experiment...