DeOxit as a corrosion inhibitor

It's like 2:00 AM and I can't play videos right now because every time I do they come up with a big BOOM and I am waiting for it to happen and the oth ers come and say "Did you blow off a gun in the house ?". One time I plugge d in a preamp that had DC on the output and when I switched to it the thud was like, you would think like maybe a big bookshelf got tipped on the floo r or some shit.

Anyway, what makes Deoxit Deoxit is the reducer. It is a very small part of the contents but the part that really does the work. I do not know which c omponent it is. It actually takes the oxygen out of the metal.

Now if you can get that stuff to forever be on the metal I imagine it would be really protected. Some sort of non-volatile grease, but I don't know if it is oil soluble.

If I were so inclined I would do a little research and find out exactly how a reducer works, what they are, their properties and all that but rally, I have enough going on. There has to be someone around here who knows more. If not maybe we have to go find somewhere else.

Yeah I am interested but I am not willing to spend a week on it.

Cramolin Red did not first come in spray. Just like 100% Deoxit D100. I'll look at that video, but can't on this old tablet.

Greg

In watching the video, I was wondering how the Rtv acedic acid reacted with steel. I coated and removed cured rtv from copper sheet, no corrosion.

Whatever it was, I removed old NOS stuff like silver plated switches. Around the switch was a piece of paper looking sheet. One side said towards part. Any part sticking out of paper had turned black. I still have some pads to stick inside sensitive equipment said to protect. Never tried them.

Greg

There are several types of RTV. Some have the acedic acid and eats copper, and some does not have the acid and is fone with copper.

ds

m.

"Silver Paper" has been around since the 1800s, invented/developed in Engla nd when burning high-sulphur coal was common both for heat and for "town ga s" that powered street lights. In that environment the "Plate" would tarnis h almost overnight, requiring dedicated servants for its maintenance.

Still around today:

Q

As a related 'aside', fine silver is much more resistant to tarnish than St erling or Plate-silver. So drinking vessels and those made to serve food ty pically had a fine-silver wash on the contact surface.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Can acetic acid dissolve steel?"

"What are the products of acetic acid and copper?"

Any mild acid (including oleic acid) will remove the oxide layer from copper. However, if left on the copper contacts, it will eventually corrode the copper. This is the label from a bottle of Cramolin red, from when it contained oleic acid: "Wipe off excess with a lint-free cloth or swab."

Ancient Cramolin R100L MSDS data: Mentions "mineral oil" twice.

That's tarnish (sulfur compounds). Some clues from how to clean brass clock mechanisms:

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

I used acedic type. I don't know what remnants remain. The smell goes away.

Greg

Yes. BTW, I?m one of many, many stupid, slow, never-should-have-been-all owed-into-college liberal arts majors. Also, I?m a former east-coas t union electrician helper. So you?ll have to excuse me when I ask you: what does ?acedic? mean?

-allowed-into-college liberal arts majors. Also, I?m a former eas t-coast union electrician helper. So you?ll have to excuse me whe n I ask you: what does ?acedic? mean?

Acidic - vinegar based solvent. It was miss-speled.

John ;-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) 
                      John's Jukes Ltd. 
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 
          (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) 
                      www.flippers.com 
        "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

All very interesting and ties into my latest purchase. I bought a metal brake to bend flashing in my house. It came coated in oil, which I removed just by wiping with a paper towel, because it was so messy. Within two days in my screened porch it started to rust. So while I'm not using it, I used motor oil on a paper towel to re-oil the metal surfaces. This will be a rarely used tool, and will be stored in my non-climate controlled outdoor shed.

How do I best protect the surface

Ditto, my new drill press!.

Mikek

Motor oil might work. I've never tried it. I use automotive grease on my drill press. Just about any grease or liquid wax that doesn't run, melt, or wash off should work. I've also used liquid furniture wax.

There are a wide variety of marine corrosion protection sprays and pastes available.

Also, automotive rust inhibitors:

WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor:

You might search or ask the same question on: The forum is mostly about CNC machines, but also covers other aspects of machining. For example:

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Rust is caused by oxygen and an electrolyte, which is usually water.

To keep oxygen and water away from the metal, cover the bare metal surfaces with something so that the oxygen and water do not come into contact with the metal. On a tool where the bare metal surfaces need to stay bare, paint will not work. A layer of oil is often a good option. Oil evaporates slowly, clings well to the metal and is relatively easy to wipe off before use.

With metal objects that are kept at outdoor temperature, condensation is the main problem (unless you leave it out in the rain). Metal has a relatively high heat capacity, so when the weather changes from cold and dry to warm and humid, the metal stays cold for a while, causing condensation. If you can keep your tool slightly warmer than the outside air, you will greatly reduce condensation and therefore rusting. You don't need climate control. You only need to keep it somewhat warm.

--
RoRo

Been a long time since I used it, LPS3 dries waxy. I hardly ever see LPS

1,2,3 in stores.

Greg

That's because they only stock what sells. And what sells to the knuckle dragging morons is WD-40.

--
"I am a river to my people." 
Jeff-1.0 
WA6FWi 
http:foxsmercantile.com

has a bunch of anti-rust/corrosion products of this sort. They speak proudly of their special "polar bonding" technology, but the safety sheet doesn't mention any ingredients other than mineral oil and hydrotreated neutral base oil. I haven't tried this stuff myself.

For the non-working surfaces of metal tools, you might want to consider an old woodworker's trick - wipe them with some pure tung oil. This is a "drying" oil - it polymerizes on contact with air and forms a solid film, which (from what I've read) is quite a good moisture and water-vapor barrier. I don't think it has any specific oxidation-blocking chemistry (such as Jeff referred to) so it's a good idea to de-rust the surfaces before you coat with tung oil.

I've treated some hand tools by first cleaning up the rust with a phosphoric acid dip/wipe (rinsing well afterwards) and then wiping on some tung oil. A thin coat will "dry" (polymerize) within a day or two, and the coating on those tool surfaces has held up well in storage.

Note that this is pure tung oil I'm referring to - not one of the commercial "tung oil" varnishes, which often contain little or no tung oil.

Well, if tung oil works for you, then boiled linseed oil should also work: I haven't tried either.

If you can tolerate something that coats the surface and hardens in place, then any of the conformal PCB coating sprays (acrylic, urethane, wax, etc) should work. Some have UV tracers built in so you can see if you missed anything.

Anything that blocks moisture, stays in place, doesn't wash away, and doesn't feed the fungus, should work. For me, that's common automotive grease, especially the types intended for marine use, which needs to be waterproof.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 11:09:40 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote as underneath :

snip

snip

Might interest others re Corrosion-X. No mention of active ingredients on the tin Im afraid! Baught it after looking into the penetration and anti corrosion properties. Quite expensive but thin green liquid and goes a long way. Smells like stuff to avoid on your skin! I have a Peugeot and it got severe corrosion in some what look like drop forged steel castings underneath (parts of rear chassis mountings). These parts were deteriorating badly in our (UK) damp climate and salty road spray - with the sort of rust that stays solid and comes off in deep black chunks and has to be chipped off, I could see the parts were not going to last for the life of the car. I just cleaned these parts by chipping as best I could then put on a thin coat of Corrosion-x with a small paint brush. A year+ later and the oiltrace of the stuff is still visible surrounding the parts, so it has tenacity and shows creepage very nicely out about 3" from where applied. Only years will tell if the deep rust problem has been stopped successfully, but at the moment it looks very promising indeed, I will re-apply C-X to these parts as precaution once a year till the car expires of old age or other trauma! C+

Been using Boiled Linseed oil for years in automotive rustproofing. It dries after a bit of smelly period. Also trying Fluidfilm for rustproofing. Kinda stays moist. lanolin. Long term results not in yet.

Greg

The only thing I knew for sure was minium (lead oxyde), an orange liquid. And then a layer of painting of your choice for aspect. But I'm not sure tu use of minium is allowed today due to lead. It was greatly efficient;