Armature burning in AC motor

I think your idea is very interesting Michael and it certainly is worth a try but I guess I'm a bit skeptical though. I have rebuilt many motors myself, (probably not hundreds though) and I've never run into a brush seating problem. That doesn't say that it doesn't exist. Historically I've found that if the commutator was good the new brushes would contour themselves. I did many Electrolux canister motors like this in fact without a problem. Electrolux made a great motor. You could wear those commutators down to almost a valley and even without turning them a set of new brushes would make them run well again. In fact I have an old cardboard box labeled "National Brush Assortment". This is slightly larger than a cigar box but not as deep with compartments in it. It contains many different sizes of carbon brushes. This was part of a load of stuff I got when I was a kid from a hardware store that was going out of business. It's probably from the 40's or 50's. None of these brushes were contoured and I've used them in almost everything that's walked in here needing brushes over the years without any problems. The motor is presently in my son's house and he's on vacation for the next two weeks so I won't be able to revisit this project until then. But I will post my results after. Thanks everyone for your input. Lenny

Reply to
klem kedidelhopper
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I just had another thought. I repaired many GM S1 alternators for myself and friends over the years. Usually the problem was the diode trio, the brushes or the internal regulator. We would get old alternators from junk yards and scrounge them for parts. The case half would separate and you had the front half with the rotor and pulley attached. The bearing was rarely a problem and I couldn't remove them or the pulley anyway. I would mount the front half on my bench so that the belt from my bench grinder turned the pulley and rotor. If I carefully held a file against the rotor as it was spinning I could "turn" the commutator. This was by no means precision machining, but it seemed to work every time. You can't do this to a modern GM alternator anymore. The commutators on the new ones are about the size of a dime. Lenny

Reply to
klem kedidelhopper

I just had another thought. I repaired many GM S1 alternators for myself and friends over the years. Usually the problem was the diode trio, the brushes or the internal regulator. We would get old alternators from junk yards and scrounge them for parts. The case half would separate and you had the front half with the rotor and pulley attached. The bearing was rarely a problem and I couldn't remove them or the pulley anyway. I would mount the front half on my bench so that the belt from my bench grinder turned the pulley and rotor. If I carefully held a file against the rotor as it was spinning I could "turn" the commutator. This was by no means precision machining, but it seemed to work every time. You can't do this to a modern GM alternator anymore. The commutators on the new ones are about the size of a dime. Lenny

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In the UK that stone was sold by Martindale and still do it seems

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You just cut down a bit to matchstick size to chase any remnant sparking (not fault overcurrent situation). I don't think its a pateneted formulation just a specific mineral , IIRC a variety of tufa of volcanic origin?. White and a bit gritty to the touch

Reply to
N_Cook

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