Hi, Run an ad on Kijiji saying you are looking for an alarm tech who could help your situation. If some one respond, deal is no fix, no pay. Lot of legit guys do a side job when he is off regular work. I am lucky if I had a situation like that, just phone my old buddies still on the job. They will send some one to help me out or give me some thing I need. I retired from Honeywell. They have building protection division.
The transformer is clearly bad (open secondary). So I have one on order and another coming in via warranty repair. But, this is not mandatory for operation anyway.
The battery protection board clearly has a capacitor that has melted leads on the underside. What I plan on doing there is replacing the capacitor; but this is not an important board for operation either.
When I put 12VDC to the main circuit board, it beeps a long beep, and nothing else happens.
So, what does that tell me?
It *could* be that the board simply needs to be "reset", so, I'll read all the manuals I found here:
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Or, it could be that the battery is bad. So, I'll charge the battery and test it under load, to see if that's the problem (but I don't think it is simply because the board is only drawing 100ma at 12VDC).
Or, it could be that the D2212B circuit board is bad. If that's the case, I'll try to troubleshoot it by testing where the power goes when I plug in the battery.
But, the board should only cost about $100 so it's not all that bad to just replace it. Bosch says they have plenty in stock, so, all I have to do is find someone who will sell them to me as a pass through:
Bosch sells the board to ADI or to Anixer, who then sells it to a pass-through contractor who sells it to me.
If the board doesn't work, then I'd be surprised; but it would then be time to replace the entire shebang.
I can get the board for $104 but it's out of stock. The retail is $169, I'm told. So, now, all I need to do is find the board in that price range from a "pass through" guy who has a Bosch agreement.
Yes. Voltage spike, lightning strike, leg dropped across from power company, or some moron accidentally touching the neutral in the breaker box to the other leg of the incoming power. They can cause both to fail. All are sudden over voltage conditions.
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I find it hard to believe THREE things would go bad at once.
I can run rudimentary tests on the D2212B board, but, what I need to do is read all the PDFs I found to see if any offer advice as to whether there is a RESET.
There's a reset button on the wall controllers, but, they don't power up with the battery in place so, *something* is wrong.
If it's a simple board reset, that's what I'll look for first.
Hmmm, Sorry to say this, I think you don't have basic logic TS skill and expertise/experience. Can you use Huntron tester or simple Boolean algebra for an example? One way of logical TS is process of elimination. You did not eliminate anything yet. Ever heard of shot gun method? When you are in a hurry, you do it based on your experience. Or you'll never pin point what is wrong. I lived all my life from Vacuum tube era in electronics as a hobby and career.
Um, the point is that the alarm system doesn't work.
You can't be serious. Debugging electronics by long distance is difficult, at best, and impossible if the person at the other end is completely helpless.
It is a real simple circuit. There is an NPN transistor (Q1) that drives the relay. The black diode is across the relay coil to protect the transistor. The other diode is a zener in series with the 2.4 k resistor to the base of the transistor. When the battery voltage is above 9.x volts, the zener will conduct and turn on the transistor that will in turn operate the relay. The relay will make the connection from the red wire to the battery (W1) to the J2 terminal marked power. It will supply voltage to the alarm panel until the battery voltage drops below the zener diode conduction point.
Charge your battery for a while and see if it will light a simple tail light bulb. Measure the battery with the bulb connected and lit.
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