power strip

So what does it take to get the power strip I want? They don't make them. I checked all over. So I decided to make one myself. I found 2 steel tool boxes big enough for 14 receptacles each. Then I got 28 snap-in receptacles. Between a Dremel tool and a sabre saw I should be able to cut out all the holes. Then I'll have what I need. No "power strip liberators." Just the simple damned power strip. No more wires, no frills.

My floor is a spaghetti of wires, plugs, power strips and transformers, probably a fire hazard.

Reply to
Jon
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Just remember that the power strip wiring has to be able to support whatever the outlet you plug it into will support - or must be fused separately.

Typical outlet in the US is 15 amps so all wiring must support that (#16 awg) or heavier.

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Rule of thumb is that if the outlet is available, it will be used - no matter what the draw is... Current limiters (ie fuses) are your friend. At the end of the Christmas season when we get ready to take the tree down, I used my shop vac to remove the remaining water from the tree stand. For several years running, I kept forgetting that the switched extension cord that fed the tree was fused at about 5 amps and *still* plugged the 20 amp shop vac into it. This year I did remember and plugged it directly into the wall.

Reply to
Oppie

transformers,=20

I don't see how your tool box power strip will help all that much, and = you=20 can usually get power strips cheaper than the individual outlets. The=20 problem is that you still need wires going to each of the items you need = to=20 power.

A better idea might be to get some cheap inverters ($10 for 75 watts:=20

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=20 and some rechargeable batteries, and have your low-power devices plugged =

into cordless modules so there are no wires to trip on. Then rig up a = way to=20 recharge all of these modules overnight. Also makes each of your devices =

very portable. You could put the battery and inverter(s) in the toolbox. = And=20 also sometimes you can find, cheap or free, dead UPS units that usually = just=20 need fresh batteries.

Paul=20

Reply to
P E Schoen

The snap in receptacle are often of dubious quality. Also, the enclosure in which you are mounting them needs to be of sufficiently high gauge steel to not flex when force is exerted on it -- inserting or removing individual plugs.

You'll have *lots* of wires! All terminated in one giant pile! 28 loads within a (best case) ~10ft span?

The floor, here, is reserved for data cabling. Power is distributed "from above" -- outlets on the underside of the work tables. THis keeps the service loops from becoming intertwined (as they would if they all laid on the floor). It also makes it much easier to find a particular power cord (with your *eyes* instead of having to tug on cords: "Is this it?").

But, perhaps more importantly, it lets you run power in logical groups as well as based on physical proximity.

I have 12 outlets available on each (office) workstation. And, the "key components" of each "system" plugged into a shared UPS (per system). E.g., computer, displays, wall warts for any "powered peripherals", etc. If Im in the middle of printing something when the power fails, I'll have to restart that print job, later. But, at least the PC, displays, pointing devices, etc. will remain functional.

Two other small (500VA) UPS's power the network switches and backup media (tape, disk) in that room. The combination of UPS's (6 total) remove the need for many of the plugs from the other outlet strips.

Reply to
Don Y

frills.

I bought some long ago on sale. They have sockets on top and both sides. That way transformers fit.

Greg

Reply to
gregz

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Death to the modified sine wave. Use that junk at your own risk.

Reply to
miso

Before power strips existed, I rolled my own out of outlets and an outlet box. The only problem was to find a wall plate with a bunch of cutouts. It turned out most electrical shops have a Greenlee chassis punch that can do a clean cut out for an outlet.

My point is before you spend hours cutting the holes, see if an electrical supply shop will punch what holes you need.

You haven't drawn a diagram of what you are trying to achieve, but I've seen power distribution panels in surplus shops, presumably out of server rooms.

Reply to
miso

So, is a power strip a really short but intense act at a nudie bar?

-- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software

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Reply to
Tim Wescott

So, is a power strip a really short but intense act at a nudie bar?

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Reply to
Jon

o

McMaster-Carr also has a double-D punch: Cat# 3449A86 Link:

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Not exactly cheap, but sure looks like it would get the job done!

-mpm

Reply to
mpm

But is it worth it to have someone punch the panel, rather than buying a tool you will only use once. Well unless there was a Harbor Freight version...

Reply to
miso

A good starting point might be the Plugmold products; one that I'm fond of, is a steel channel with one US-style three pin outlet every six inches. You can mount these permanently to a wall or post, and I've connected several to workbench areas with double-stick tape and wire-ties. A six-foot strip at a workbench gives you a dozen outlets. It takes fittings/boxes to complete an installation: find a local stocking supplier before you start your project.

Reply to
whit3rd

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