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Oven problem

A friends door has a loud click when opening and closing the door that sounds like it comes from the lower hinge. I'm thinking this piece is turning rather than doing it's job. I would offer to work on it, but it would require emptying the door, then taking the door off the hinges and only then being sure as to what part to order. PITA It probably doesn't even bother her. I wonder if it will end up breaking something else if not fixed.

Why do you say the bottom hinge? Wouldn't it need to be on both hinges so the entire door will raise or lower?

Reply to
Rick C
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The nameplate in ours is visible with the door open (right near the lamp). I just googled the model number and found the part online. Verified it was available from a local shop (AMRE*) and picked it up (Amazon would have worked too). A few minutes to empty the door into a cardboard box (didn't even bother putting the stuff on the deck to keep it cold) and maybe 5 minutes to replace the parts.

The freezer side is more trouble - you have to remove the water feed line and an electrical connector to get the door off- but that side gets opened at 1/10 the frequency and the door is lighter so I think it will outlast the fridge. So I didn't bother.

  • I suspect pros get a huge discount on their 'retail' prices but whatev.

Because it *is* only on the bottom hinge. One part attached to the door and the other attached to the hinge (just two flat-ish pieces with the raised cam action). If you raise the lower hinge the upper one definitely moves too since the door is rigid, and only one is really going to do anything, the other just slides.

Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

As others have pointed out, I'd also go with bad caps. I'd also hit most if not all of the solder joints with a soldering iron. In my limited experience with dealing with a Maytag electric range and a GE electric range, reflowing the solder joints fixed the problem. good luck J

Reply to
Three Jeeps

Ahhh, AC line powered fan - yep, check the fan capacitor. J

Reply to
Three Jeeps

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