Low power stereo amplifier

Dec 09, 2004 6 Replies

Hi,



I need to amplify the Rear Line-Out from my USB Audigy 2 NX for output to a pair of 4 ohm stereo multimedia speakers. However, rather than paying upwards of $75 AUD for a prebuilt or kit amplifier, I've decided to construct a low power amplifier myself using spare parts. After searching the net, I've found three designs that look promising



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If anyone has any suggestions about these or recommendations of other designs, their input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


--James


The first one is a class-A amplifier that'll require massive heat sinks and cooling, and a larger power supply. The other two use power ICs and will be easier for you to construct.

Thanks, - Win

The class-A amp in Rod Elliot's site is a very similar design to the (relatively) famous John Linsey Hood design from 1996 - it's a TERRIFIC amp, but it's construction is not trivial, as it requieres massive heatsinking and a very low noise power supply.

As for the IC-based amplifiers, those are quite good, specially considering the price and ease of implementation. I would definitely reccomend those - i think you'll be pretty happy with the final result.

Hi James,

Class D amps are much lower in dissipation if you need it in a small space. TI makes the chips, plus some other major mfgs.

Other Idea: Why not take the amp from an old stereo? Either from a stereo that you need to junk because the players fell apart or from a garage sale. That's what I did. The amp is even black, matching the computer. Cost would be next to nothing, nice clean enclosure, no soldering.

Regards, Joerg

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Well, as it shows, english IS my second language ;)

wrote

Why not go to a second-hand junk store/ask around/ebay, and pick up an old stereo receiver/amp in the $5-$10 range?

Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

I posed a similar question here several weeks ago, and was pointed towards the National LM4752 part, which I'm planning on using to build my own.

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