HEI coil driver

As you guys know, I'm a retired nuke. Recently I found some mailing lists for serious amateur nukes and that has caused me to "get my nuke on" again.

One thing a lot of people were complaining about was the lack of a suitable high voltage driver for the many surplus X-ray tubes that are available. Only rarely does a transformer show up and then, at least for diagnostic X-ray machine, the things weigh in at around 600 lbs.

So I volunteered to design one. The target is 150kV at 20 ma.

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This driver is based roughly on the quasi-resonant architecture and uses GM HEI coils in parallel to achieve the desired power level. They are operated in oil for cooling and insulation.

I use the GM P/N DR37T coils. At the suggestion of a reader, I took a look at the DR35. This coil has spade lugs for primary connections and is a beast compared to the DR37T. The page will be updated to reflect the new coil choice.

So far I've achieved 120kV with the DR37T and 5ma using one coil. The voltage is limited by the approx 1000 volt flyback on the 1200 volt driver transistor. The new DR35 should take it to 150kV at a yet-to-be-determined output, as the ratio is higher. Plus I've equipped the transistor with a high joule Panasonic ZNR type TVS designed to clip at 1050 volts. That will protect the transistor in case the knob-twister gets a bit too enthusiastic :-)

I intend to use this driver with a very large therapy tube with a liquid cooled anode so this driver is designed for continuous duty. I'm interested in studying the effects of radiation on materials. Cross-linking, radioluminescence, etc.

It works equally well driving one coil to generate low voltage for things like XRF. Voltage in the 10-20kV range are easily achieved with a HVDC input of about 12 volts and one coil.

Of course, this thing has other uses than driving X-ray tubes. The pulses are mono-polar so a rectifier isn't necessary but a diode and a capacitor can be used to produce smooth DC. I set up a 200kV rated diode stack and 5uF 150kV capacitor with this unit and generated some truly scary sparks.

This thing is extremely rugged. The output can be shorted, operated open-circuited (in oil, of course), allowed to arc back to the transistor collector, all without damage. The only thing that will damage it is turning the charging current up too high so that the primary flyback voltage exceeds about 1100 volts. The transistor's absolute rating is 1200 volts and it'll do that - for a little while.

Operation with the corona discharge "dummy load" pictured on the web site quickly fills the cabin with enough ozone that I need to run the whole house fan. It electrifies everything in the vicinity from the sprayed electrons. I had a Crescent wrench laying on some refractory flash over to an earth ground from the charge build-up. I wear my anti-static wrist strap when operating this thing to keep from getting a static zap.

Someone on the mailing list commented that this would probably also be useful to the Farnsworth Fusor guys. I'm not really up on the details of that project but I do know that it requires a pretty hefty source of high voltage.

I have set up a private mailing list for discussion of this and related projects. Anyone who is of majority age and can comport themselves properly is welcome to join.

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Finally here's a vid of one coil running at about 90kV

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******* small commercial plug *********

Bare PCBs are available from fluxeon.com. It's not in the store yet so write Garett Churchill, snipped-for-privacy@fluxeon.com. $12. If there is enough interest, we'll offer A/T boards also.

The BOM isn't on the site yet but it'll go up in the next day or two. Garett is collecting Digikey and Mouser part numbers for all the parts.

John John DeArmond

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Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address

Reply to
Neon John
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PP caps should not be immersed in mineral oil.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Neat project!

The present design seems to run from a 120 V, 15 A circuit; are you going to go for 240 V or more current? (220, 221, whatever it takes!)

Suggestion: It might be helpful to figure out a year, model, and engine of car or truck that these coils were installed on, and list that in your documentation. Most parts places (and parts-counter persons) can put DR37T or DR35 into the cross-reference function on their computer, or look it up in the paper books, but some of them just can't. If you can tell them, for example, "ignition coil for a 1983 GMC half-ton,

350 V8", then (and only then) will they be able to find the part.

Then the purchaser may have to explain why they want four of them, but that's up to them. :)

Having a year, model, and engine also may help the really thrifty experimenters who are going to go to the junkyard.

Matt Roberds

Reply to
mroberds

Historically, you got a bunch of monks to hold hands, but today there might be certain logistical problems and safety objections. :)

Mouser sells some Ohmite resistors with ratings up to 90 kV, but they are $15 to $30 each depending on rating.

I've heard of (and I think seen discussed here) things like metal plates in a big tub of salt water as a cheap dummy load.

At one time, NAPA's web site had a "tell me what cars this part fits" function buried in it. Currently it disclaims all knowledge of those two coil numbers, so I'm not sure if that function is still there.

I suspect they might be Delco/Delphi model numbers. Most GM parts I've bought at dealerships have an all-numeric 8-digit part number that starts with a 1.

I agree that online parts places, or the websites of physical stores, can do it easily. Trying to do it in person at the parts store will vary a lot, in my experience.

In the stores around here, the version of the DR35 they carry sells for $27. The DR37T seems to go for about $36. Those are probably knockoffs; the ACDelco part (which is *probably* not a knockoff) goes for twice that or more.

The they-pull-it yards around here are like that too. The you-pull-it ones tend to have a fixed price list, plus a dollar or two admission charge. The Pick-n-Pull yards in town say they charge $10 for a bare ignition coil; doesn't matter what year or model it's from.

Would it help anything in your application to have both ends of the secondary brought out? I'm not sure if it would, but: I used to drive a Chevy with a 2.8L V6 that had a coil for every two cylinders; I think each end of the secondary went to a spark plug. Both plugs fired each time, but the plug that wasn't under compression didn't take nearly as much juice to fire, leaving the rest of it for the other plug. If that feature would do anything for you, the NAPA part numbers are Echlin IC39, Mileage Plus IC39SB, Delphi GN10123 .

Matt Roberds

Reply to
mroberds

On a sunny day (Fri, 07 Mar 2014 14:16:18 -0500) it happened Neon John wrote in :

John, that is a very nice informative website. Thank you for making it available.

Reply to
Jan Panteltje

On a sunny day (Fri, 07 Mar 2014 22:13:30 -0500) it happened Neon John wrote in :

Did you see this?

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Ben's projcts are absolutly increadible.

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Reply to
Jan Panteltje

I'm still going to steer with what CDE told you, I learned myself and was then confirmed with other capacitor manufacturers over your jar of oil.

have you tried pulling a vacuum on the jar of oil with the CDE caps yet?

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

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