Dreadful DIN plug

The wires are there. They are just invisible. LOL.

Anyway, the difficult part is soldering the wires without melting the plastic holding the pins together. I tried to solder wires to a 12 pins plug. After a few wires, the plastic get deformed and not mating well. So, i gave up.

I am still looking for better heat resistive plastic, or perhaps pre-soldered with wires.

These are little tricky to get right but once it's wired up seems a pretty rugged connector.

The video is a bit silly because it shows you how to build a useless object! once it's assembled there's no way to connect the cable! Building it on the bench there are certain parts you have to slip over the cable and if you mess it up you're in the classic forgot-to-put-the-heat-shrink-over-the-wire-first situation.

The pins to connect are tiny, no lugs, and the wire I'm using is for a power connector, the best I could do is tin both pin and wire and use

3rd hands to align them and solder together straight-in, then wrap in heat shrink (which you must also put over all three internal wires in the cable...first)

DIN power connectors seem more common on European stuff. Detusche Industrie Norm was used a lot in Soviet Bloc countries for all sorts of stuff like audio connectors too, must be why they called it Deutshce Industrie Norm.

'You will hear it click as it snaps into place.'

I've been hear that click all my life.

Now I want a disassembly/rework instruction that doesn't require special tools.

RL

I was lucky and did it right on the first try, if I hadn't IDK how I'd fix my mistake other than snippers and the trash bin.

I've sometimes wondered whether the entire market for such plugs consists of people who try to solder them, fail, and eventually abandon the attempt.

Sylvia.

Well, they are good enough to make a prototype, with the specific wire size, length and color, then send it to the manufacturer. They probably mold the plastic with the pins and wires together.

============

** You need to plug the male insert into a socket while soldering. Pre- tin the wires and solder quick with a temp controlled iron at about 300C.

..... Phil

Have a DIN 12 pin socket to help keep the plug pins in place...and heat sink (alligator clip) the socket pin you are working on!

John :-#)#

You can solder to some of those connectors by putting the mating connector in a vise, and plugging the subject into it (increases heat capacity of pins), then if it takes lap-joints, prep with a tiny coil of bare copper wire, just big enough to hold the cable strand and the connector back-shank. I've found mini-DIN connectors can be workable, if you have a #50 drill shank to wind the copper around...

I am trying this:

I'll try a couple more. I would have to destroy a pair by heat sinking the mating connectors, perhaps with conductive metal glue, binding all the pins together.

It's difficult to get to the center pins, i wish they make the center pins longer.

In the long run, for more than a few pieces, it's probably more cost effective to ask the manufacturer to do it.

plastic holding the pins together. I tried to solder wires to a 12 pins pl ug. After a few wires, the plastic get deformed and not mating well. So, i gave up.

soldered with wires.

tor in a vise, and

it takes lap-joints, prep

strand and the connector

a #50 drill shank

e mating connectors, perhaps with conductive metal glue, binding all the pi ns together.

s longer.

ctive to ask the manufacturer to do it.

It helps to pre-tin the solder cup contacts before soldering the wires to t hem. Add a drop of liquid rosin flux after that, and pre-tin the wires. the n you only have to heat the pre-tinned end to flow them together. That take s much less heat. Start with the lowest row of pins with the solder cup ope nings to the top. These are much smaller wire count than repairing cables f or old studio cameras. Some military manuals had great drawings of how to a ssemble and wire circular connectors.

You can buy all sorts of cable assemblies. Why go to all that trouble?

--

John Larkin         Highland Technology, Inc 

Science teaches us to doubt. 

  Claude Bernard

That's what i am saying. I am just building a few prototype with the right size and length color coded cables, then order the rest from someone.

Even better, try to use a stock cable assembly.

I use ribbon cables when I can. And buy stock cables, or make up a part number according to Digikey rules and let them make it for me. For less than I can buy the parts.

--

John Larkin         Highland Technology, Inc 

Science teaches us to doubt. 

  Claude Bernard

I don't think ribbon cables can handle 5A as these plugs. I need 22 AWG wires as well.

I'm using three parallel wires of a 28ga ribbon cable for 48 volts at

5.4 amps into my class-D power amps, which is super conservative. Just one wire barely gets warm at 5 amps. Picking the pins right spreads out the heat in the cable too.

The mating connectors are cheap shrouded boxes on the PCBs, and Digikey makes the ribbon cables.

28ga should be fine for 2A, but not constant 5A.

I need each wire to handle constant 5A, and a couple of parallel wires for 10A. These SP21 connectors max out at 12 pins; so i can't parallel too many of them.

You need a hot (800F) temperature-controlled iron, so you can solder the wires into the cups instantly, a puff of smoke and done.

Joe Gwinn

Similar method here, but pretin the pins as well as the wires, fast, so not all the flux has evaporated. Then insert plug into socket and typically less than a second touch to bring the two together.

Cheap D connectors and many others have the same problem...

Chris