dip soldering, prevent oxidation ?

That chart doesn't list Avacado oil and seems to not be listing

*refined* safflower oil.

--

Rick

Burned up cooking oil all over the PCB and solder pot sounds like the last thing anybody would want.

Burned oil is hard to remove from anything.

Why would you burn it?

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Rick

On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 12:03:13 -0500, Jon Elson Gave us:

Both are the proper steps. The tilted raise is essential. There were even solder machines with board holding fixtures which did exactly that.

On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 12:09:25 -0500, Jon Elson Gave us:

snip

Smaller version!

Hahahahahahaha!

On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 17:12:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader Gave us:

It works, but there is a lot of smoke generated. Better run a hood over it.

I think that Cy is referring to oxidized oil sticking to everything. Since the stuff is basically enamel paint at that point, I think he's got a good reason to worry.

--

Tim Wescott 
Wescott Design Services 
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 13:36:27 -0500, Jon Elson Gave us:

NOTHING "reduces the oxides back to pure metal". They stop the oxides from forming by creating a barrier between the molten bath surface and the air, ya dope.

1 liter in UK: "To maintain optimum production levels, the recommended interval before the oil needs to be changed is 8 to 12 hours." 5 gallons is beginning to look like a good start. Maybe you can get a small sample to try.

Also see "dross reducer": Note that most do not claim to eliminate dross, merely reduce it.

Here's a liquid that claims to eliminate dross:

Note that the formulations seem to be different for tin-lead, lead free, water soluble flux, rosin flux, etc.

I've never tried any of these formulation. Please let me know if any of them work for you. Good luck.

Yeah, I know. You got it for peanuts.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Yes, I found this a few weeks ago, but haven't found anybody that stocks it. Maybe have to get it from the manufacturer.

Thanks,

Jon

I don't think the idea is to leave the oil on the solder forever. It has to be replaced periodically just like cooking french fries.

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Rick

That's called responsible QC.

The stuff I used was "Dross-X" from Multicore solders. Thick brown sludge slow-acting flux - worked quite well by both excluding oxygen at the surface and reducing dross back to solder. We also used it stand-alone to recover solder from dross. Don't know if it is still available but a 5liter poly-jar lasts a long time!

piglet

On Tue, 05 Apr 2016 09:48:59 +0100, piglet Gave us:

Wrong! Despite the advert on the package, oxidized solder (dross) does not reconstitute back into solder, and you would not want it in your alloy if it did.

SCRAPE and REMOVE. THAT is the proper way.

Why else would one dump cooking oil into a solder pot, other than to polymerize it and form a sticky mess all over the place?

Any cooking oil (fatty acids) will polymerize and form a sticky mess over time. With heat you speed up the process greatly even if you don't burn it. Peanut oil does seem to take higher temps better than other oils, but it will still turn into gunk. Those giant pots for deep frying turkeys only look new once.

Gross fact- lots of frying oil used in restaurants has silicone oil added to it as an anti-foaming agent.

Is that why you pour cooking oil on a hot frying pan? To polymerize it and form a sticky mess?

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Rick

If you say so. Peanut oil is not so high on the list. I've already given suggestions for better oils with higher smoke points. "With time" is not well defined. Both the oil and the solder get replaced or replenished. There is no reason for a buildup of a "sticky mess". Check the specs on the oil in your car. It doesn't do as well as some cooking oils as far as temperature is concerned.

--

Rick

You're right, motor oil isn't vegetable oil. I wonder why that's the case.

Folks can dump anything they want into their solder pots.