Assembling tiny insulation-displacement connectors

Just an idea - are there any OEM cables available that you can buy and hack or cut in half?

Arbor Press, a block of wood cut and glued together to fit the connector.

donald

Doesn't look like the old standby "press in a PanaVise" trick would work with these.

I'd ditch the ZR and go with ZH for the prototype runs.

Otherwise, try making a tool from a sacrificial connector. Clip and insert shim stock into the wire channels and then fill the body of the connector with epoxy. To build a connector, set the wires in place and push in with an elastomer (thumb?) just until they're held into the U. Line up the tool and press.

Is that what the tooling usually is? Is it just parallel blades fit or machined into a block, or is there more to it? Is there a general rule of thumb for how thick the blades should be?

Don

From the looks of the connector, some variation on parallel blades would have to be used. The real deal may have flared leading edges between the actual IDC posts to help keep the wires centered. The working height would also be by design rather than by guess.

I'd personally still go with the ZH crimp connectors. Digikey looks to have the sockets and all of the housing sizes. If you don't have the right die set, or one close enough for prototyping, then (I can't believe I'm saying this) needle nose pliers could be pressed into service. A not quite right, pliers crimped connection may be more reliable than a similarly not quite right IDC.

I do not know how small those are, but from 14 pin to 50 pin IDC connectors, this is what i have done (ribbon cable). Hand assemble them and push together top and bottom (may need a block with matching holes to protect hands and /or pins). Now that they are together enough to not fall apart, use a vise to squish together until fully seated; use block if necessary. Works every time. Did i read "seperate wires" above? If at all possible, replace with a ribbon cable where they are moulded together. If not, then use some tape to hold them together for ease of assembly; removal optional - print "J12" or whatever on the tape.

I would say no wider than the OD of the insulation, nor narrower than the copper wire inside.