4quad supply

How sad!

I'm the laughing-uncontrollably kind of drunk.

Michael

I just get affectionate and sleepy. But I haven't been actually drunk in decades; that's for kids.

I hear ya. I try not to get drunk anymore either.

But with 500 mL of 12% alcohol beer from Rinkuskiai Brewery, Lithuania, it's quite easy to get drunk. :p

Michael

I used to use TDA2030 audio amps as power op-amps, for driving LEDs, electroplating Howland current sources, etc. Often the offset voltage and drift thereof was bad enough that you would want to add another op-amp to null it out. The other things that bit me were that it is not unity-gain stable and it needs a zobel network. Still it was very good value for money. Sadly discontinued, like many of my favourite parts.

Chris

Good idea. I'll have to look for such glass jugs then or maybe a little carboy. Hopefully one shows up in the thrift store because the folks offering them on Craigslist at reasonable prices are too far away.

Do you do the carbonation before bottling in the same jugs with the trub still in there?

Grolsch is 450ml and unfortunately green. But it's a thick bottle so the chances of one going kablouie is low. Although that did happen in a spectacular way back when we were brewing in the 80's. We'd store them in a cabinet anyhow so no light exposure.

There's also online places. Nowadays that can be economicla. We even get our large dog food bags online where sometimes shipping is free if you buy bulk. With two hyper-dining Labradors we kind of have to.

I have to read up on all this stuff.

There is a brew club that meets at the Catholic Church in Placerville once a month. One time visit is free and after that the membership is cheap, something arond $20/year.

Lm3886 is stable in a gain of 20 inverting amp. We use it as an output stage in a servo controlled actuator. There are thousands of them out in the world working just fine.

STEVE

I am leery of most such products, especially European ones that begin with TA, TB, TC, TD or TE. They are usually made for the consumer electronics industry and often disappear without much warning immediately after certain TV set or whatever is discontinued. That is why I prefer domestic for such ICs.

Careful with heavy 5 gallon glass carboys. I overheard a Brewmeister worker warning a customer that the handles on such carboys are decorative, not functional, and one carboy broke when holding by the handle.

One gallon empty glass wine jugs are easier to handle.

You could use a plastic one, if you like. Brewmeister even sells 5 or 6-gallon food-grade plastic buckets for fermenting in. Sanitize everything with iodophor. I like it because it's cheap and not very toxic. One tsp iodophor per gallon of water works wonders as a sanitizing agent.

You could, but usually you siphon out the good stuff into another vessel, leaving the trub behind.

Use a racking cane (like this one)

When ready to bottle, add a little dexrose "priming sugar" to some water in a cup (just enough to dissolve it), boil in the microwave to sanitize, let cool, then pour the sugar-water into the vessel with the beer.

Maybe 20 grams sugar per gallon should do it. Some folks online say more, up to an ounce per gallon, but I like to play it safe.

Ah, ok, good, no light exposure. I'm saving some green ones too, to give away to friends who will consume the beer quickly anyway.

Good point. I will consider that.

You will need a hydrometer, to know when to stop mashing (when the specific gravity stops increasing, you're done). Before I would just mash for an hour or so, but now with the hydrometer, I'm done mashing often within 20 minutes or so.

Hahaha! First hit is free, then they start charging for the second one. I've heard of this method before! ;D

Have fun!

Michael

Seems like good stuff:

We had the crates stacked at the head end of one of the guys bed. At night ... *BOOM* ... followed by random grenading of more bottles. He was guy who is normally not afraid of anything but said he almost wet his pajamas.

Eventually yes but I want to do the first batch on the cheap. If that works I'll invest in gear. Possibly even one of the fancy stainless fermenters.

:-)

It's just a regular small club. Probably a great resource for information exchange and finding deals on equipment.

One disturbing fact I found after moving to the US is that the tap water here (El Dorado Irrigation District) had almost the same chlorine level as the swimming pool. So I bought an inline cartridge filter.

Here's the layout.

There are copper pours under the amp on layers 1 and 3, hitting all four VEE pins and the nearby no-connects. Fat vias conduct heat from the L1 to the L3 pours, which sandwich layer 2, the ground plane, and dump heat into ground from both sides.

PADS will NOT like me shorting to the no-connects, but I'll just ignore the errors.

We could also put some glop under the chip to conduct more heat into the topside copper pour and vias. Or glue a heat sink to the top of the amp. Probably overkill.

I'll try this and see what happens.

Try making them single-pin nets (hang a bit of wire and a net name off them).

I don't remember if PADS complains if the pins have nowhere to go. In which case, continue telling it to stuff off...

Tim

It had a good run (I guess >30 years), and I have a stick of them left, but yes consumer stuff is best avoided for long lived projects unless you can do a lifetime buy, and even that won't help if e.g. RoHS laws get enacted when you're half-way through your lifetime stash.

Sure, without a local consumer electronics industry the risk of "production of a certain TV set is discontinued" does not exist.

But the same mostly applies to Europe now...

I can just ignore the connection errors... this is a test board. I can also enter ECO mode in PCB and add connections to Vee on the fly, to the no-connect pins. Just tried that, and it works.

Den mandag den 11. april 2016 kl. 16.13.58 UTC+2 skrev John Larkin:

fix the symbol?

-Lasse

We don't usually show no-connects on schematic symbols; the parts would get ugly. I don't do library work myself anyhow. My layout guy maintains the parts library, a pretty formal process.

I'm guessing that heat sinking the no-connect pins will help a little. At any rate, it lets me pour more heat-spreading copper around the Vee pins, which (I hope) are the paddle.

It does exist. These comapnies ship worldwide, it does not matter whether the TV is built in Korea, China, Malaysia or Turkey.

I do not consider such a badging industry a "local consumer electronics industry".

We used to have a local consumer electronics industry with factories locally and abroad, but what is left of it now only orders far-east companies to design and build sets for them and apply their badge to it and ship it to the resellers. The original company is in no way involved in the design or production anymore, so no preference for devices developed or even produced by (subsidiaries of) that same company exists anymore. The subsidiaries that produced the components have been sold long ago, some continue to operate under a new name, others have become part of foreign producers of components.

LT1970A perhaps?, 500 mA, 4 quadrants, voltage programmable current limiting for both positive and negative rails, 9$ in ones.

Steve