not worth it tho until the cost comes down
-- rgds,
Pete
------- election results explained:
The chart on that page seems to show that they are worth it - presuming that the chart is correct!
Or have I missed something here?
"Polly the Parrott"
The suggested application is for covered car parks, warehouses, coldrooms and signage - situations where the tubes would be on for 12 hours a day or more. Interestingly, the major users of 1.2m fluoros (ie shops, offices and work places) are not mentioned.
Homes that have 1.2m fluoro fittings use them mostly in kitchens and bathrooms where the light is cycled many times per day - doing this reduces the life of a normal fluoro to a small fraction of the quoted 20,000 hours. However, it will not do the same with LED tubes and combined with flicker free starting and being unaffected by low temperatures is enough to justify using them.
Plus most LED tubes are made from polycarbonate so are practically unbreakable.
... Phil
Bullshit. Mine cycles less than twice a day in the kitchen and not at all in the bathroom which doesn?t have a long tube fluoro in it.
Bullshit.
Trivial to get that without paying anything like that.
Mine are completely unaffected by those.
Bullshit.
I've never broken one of mine. And it costs peanuts to replace if I ever did.
"Rod Speed is an Idiot "
** Shame it is complete fact.** ROTFLMAO !!
Mad Rodbot solutions !!!
** Fraid it is an absolute fact.** Bullshit.
** Bullshit.
** Fraid it is fact.
** Totally irrelevant crap.
Just like the Bothead's whole post.
.... Phil
"Trevor Wilson"
** 90% of which heads off in the wrong direction. ** A light meter (camera or lux meter) will show the illumination level on the bench below is the same or higher with a 20W LED tube than with your fluoro.Fluoro tubes can light up a whole room but are rather poor at lighting up a specific surface area.
.... Phil
"Petzl"
** The solution used in industry is to run all the fluoros from 3-phase power with three tubes in each fitting each on a separate phase. Cancels out the strobing effect..... Phil
I'll bet there's a lot of factories, work places, etc., that don't have it done right tho
-- rgds, Pete ------- election results explained: http://ausnet.info/pics/labor_wins2.jpg ?People sleep peacefully in their beds only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf?
** Been standard practice since fluoros were first used for such lighting.
Wherever it matters, it has to be done that way or people lose fingers and hands.
.... Phil
High pressure sodium (and Alsynite skylights) seem more common in the big factories I don't know if the sodium lamps strobe, or how much. they're cheaper to run than fluorescents.
-- umop apisdn --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
Agree on warm colour temp, I wouldn't buy anything else.
They can really irritate my eyes. If I spend too much time in places like Woolworths or Kmart, I get sore eyes.
I get a lighter wallet..
-- rgds, Pete ------- election results explained: http://ausnet.info/pics/labor_wins2.jpg ?People sleep peacefully in their beds only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf?
You should try shoplifting then. Just ask anyone in the carpark driving a mid-nineties Commodore for advice on that one.
Having measured them I found that most modern high-frequency ballasts for linear fluorescent tubes don't produce any significant 50Hz or 100Hz flicker. (They have some at 50kHz+ though.)
It's odd that some people still seem to install the old inductor based 'magnetic' ballasts in Australia, and the price of the high frequency ballasts is quite high here.
The crappy cheap ballasts built into CFLs are much worse than the ones for linear tubes and seem to flicker strongly at 100Hz (and also many kHz, the combination of which stops many IR remote controls from working).
Sadly a lot of the new dimmable LED lamps also have very obvious flicker at a few hundred hertz. I have no idea why they would choose such a low PWM frequency for the dimming (unless they use some crappy slow microcontroller and a very rudimentary PWM algorithm, and use a low PWM frequency to get dimming resolution because they are not up to writing a sigma-delta modulator for the PWM). Anyway they flicker so badly that I wouldn't use one of those to read by, let alone over a lathe.
Chris
** I bet there is a connection there ....
My info is that it is not that easy to buy HF ballasts for T8 or T10 fluro tubes - only those for T5s which can use no other are easy to buy.
** Fair enough..... Phil
They drive clapped out Hiluxes these days - carry more stuff.
Lurking in aus.cars, I see.
Not for some time, but you straightened yours a while back ;-)
Yeah and she ain't clapped out no more either. I'll get at least ten years out of her now (assuming I don't put it on it's roof again...). Anything that even looked like it might be getting tired was replaced, and you don't need an electronics degree to fix the thing.
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