EVER411 15V battery from WES

I have been restoring an old APO Multimeter No.3 by giving it a good going over inside and out. It's a nice looking analogue MM which is built like a brick outhouse and it has been well looked after since it was obtained from the PMG's Stores branch in 1971 at a charge out cost of $68.50. They certainly weren't expensive at that price - considering they had a 10A ac range using a current transformer and were made in Australia by Master Instruments. The leather case was like new into the bargain.

As some of you may be aware, this meter - like the AVO 8 etc, uses a 15V battery which is no longer manufactured by the usual battery manufacturers. I found that WES Components sell a lookalike which is supposedly an alkaline equivalent of the old carbon-zinc pile made by Eveready as the 411 battery. These are labelled as Made in Singapore and are fitted in a red plastic case the same dimensions as the original Eveready - but they are about half the weight of the original. I think they are distributed in Aust by Master Instruments. They cost about $27 ea in Perth so they are not cheap to say the least. I ordered 2 and received them today.

Upon connecting my digital meter to the first battery (with no load) it measured

15V initially and rapidly dropped to a steady 13.5V within 10 seconds. Exactly the same result with the second battery. I didn't even bother to connect a 15K load and do a nominal 1mA measurement because the result could not be any better than with no load. I had already determined that the APO M/M No.3 requires the battery to measure a minimum of 13V in order to be able to zero the meter on the Ohms x1000 range with leads shorted, so these EVER411's were no good at all.

I took both batteries back to the supplier in Perth (Westec Electronics - the rep for WES Components)and demonstrated the problem to the counter jockey using two different meters. He agreed the voltage measurements did not match the advertised specs and refunded my money.

The point of this story is to advise anyone who may be considering buying this battery from WES (or any other supplier), think twice, and then don't do it.

Since I still needed a replacement battery I called in at Malz and bought a miniature MN27 12V battery and a 2032 3V Lithium cell for a total of $5.20 and I am currently shoe-horning them into the casing from the original dead Eveready

411.
Reply to
Ross Herbert
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Did you try Master Instruments they still sell a battery with that model number

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If you have trouble buying from them directly I think battery world is there more retail arm.

Reply to
ishap_11

SNIP : :Did you try Master Instruments they still sell a battery with that model number

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If you have trouble buying from them directly I think battery world is there more retail arm.

Thanks. I know Batteries Plus is the MI distributor in Perth but they tend to charge more than WES for the same item.

If you go to the WES website and have a look at page 518 of their on-line catalogue you will see the 411 battery. Compare the picture with the MI page for their product

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Do they look similar?

On the MI page the link to the data sheet shows documentation for original carbon zinc Eveready 411, even though the red plastic case item marked Unicell UG411 made in singapore, is listed under Alkaline Batteries. I visited the Unicell website

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but was unable to locate the UG-411 anywhere. Am awaiting a reply from them as to its availability.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

"Ross Herbert"

( snip sad story)

** Two recipes:

  1. Take two 9V Energizers and a 3.9 volt zener - use shrink plastic to make one unit.

  2. Take the 6 individual cells from two 9V Energizers ( smaller versions of the AAA size ) and use 11 of them ( a row of 5 and a row of 6) to make a new battery. Cover in shrink as above.

My idea involves wire leads soldered to the original battery terminals.

It should be years before you need to repeat the exercise.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

: :"Ross Herbert" : :( snip sad story) : :> Since I still needed a replacement battery I called in at Malz and bought :> a :> miniature MN27 12V battery and a 2032 3V Lithium cell ... : : :** Two recipes: : :1. Take two 9V Energizers and a 3.9 volt zener - use shrink plastic to :make one unit. : :2. Take the 6 individual cells from two 9V Energizers ( smaller versions of :the AAA size ) and use 11 of them ( a row of 5 and a row of 6) to make a :new battery. Cover in shrink as above. : :My idea involves wire leads soldered to the original battery terminals. : :It should be years before you need to repeat the exercise. : : : :.... Phil :

Thanks Phil.

I had thought of using the 2 x 9V battery and zener trick but there just isn't space in the meter for 2 of them. I hadn't thought of stripping 9V batteries down and using the individual cells to make a 15V though. Good idea and will give it try.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

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There was an item on this in Silicon Chip last year (Nov. page 60) Here is the text:

************************************************************************ Battery replacement for an AVO Mk.8 multimeter The revered British AVO multimeter employed a 15V battery which is now expensive and hard to obtain. I happened to be in one of the many $2.00 shops in NZ and spied a pack of five CR2032 cells for the princely cost of $2.00. Ensuring that they had a long expiry date, I purchased a couple of packs. Five such cells gave 15V (16.7V actually),exactly what is required for the AVO. They were fitted into a 15mm length of 12mm (inside measurement) PVC conduit. You need to reshape the battery contacts as shown in the photo. It is then an easy 'task to fit the batteries, making sure you get the polarity correct. Finally, pack a little foam plastic, as per the photo, around the battery area. Editor's note: using stacked lithium cells to provide 15V is a good idea when low current (
Reply to
Yaputya

I just found some more info on this...

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Reply to
Yaputya

Thanks for those articles. Most helpful.

Ross

Reply to
Ross Herbert

"Yaputya"

** IME ( and that is not inconsiderable ) the idea of 5 x Lithium button cells in series, connected only by pressure, gives me the *willies* - and I expect Mr Murphy would have a fit.

That such an arrangement would ever exhibit the needed long term reliability is *optimistic* in the extreme.

If Ross H goes for my #2 recipe ( using 11 cells taken from 9V Energizers ) then he ought to carefully SOLDER leads from each PLUS to the MINUS of the next cell in the chain.

Along with soldered leads to the terminals inside his meter, that out to bring a smile to the jaded face of Mr Murphy.

BTW:

" How Mr Murphy died:

One dark evening (in the U.S.), Mr Murphy's car ran out of gas. As he hitchhiked to a gas station, while facing traffic and wearing white, he was struck from behind by a British tourist who was driving on the wrong side of the road. "

... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

cells in series, connected only by pressure, gives me

I don't see why it would be such a problem - it isn't really any different from a big torch with several C or D cells in series, passing a lot more current and only connected by the pressure of a spring in the base. Many LED torches and laser pointers also use several button cells in series in the same way, relying only on spring pressure. Have you experienced a particular problem with Lithium cells?

is *optimistic* in the extreme.

In the Barry Grumwald article (SC Nov 2011 page 60) the cells are held in place co-axially by PVC conduit, in the laser pointers etc. that I have seen the multiple button cells are also held in place by a similar plastic tube. Although I haven't built the exact battery as described in the SC article by Barry Grumwald (no need - I don't own an AVO!) I don't see why it would exhibit any more long-term problems than a common 3 or 4 cell torch. In Barry's design the pressure from the compressed foam pushing on the reshaped battery contacts should be enough to make reliable electrical contact, especially as the current involved is less than 190 microamps

then he ought to carefully SOLDER leads from each

a smile to the jaded face of Mr Murphy.

Of course soldered connections are going to be more reliable but I think you would agree that your solution involving dissecting the 9V batteries and soldering the individual cells is messy and could even damage the cells. The Barry Grumwald idea makes it much easier to replace the cells when they go flat - no need for more messy soldering.

Reply to
Yaputya

"Yaputya"

** But you are an ass.

Fuck off.

Reply to
Phil Allison

On Thu, 9 Aug 2012 12:51:51 +1000, "Phil Allison" wrote: : :** Two recipes: : :1. Take two 9V Energizers and a 3.9 volt zener - use shrink plastic to :make one unit. : :2. Take the 6 individual cells from two 9V Energizers ( smaller versions of :the AAA size ) and use 11 of them ( a row of 5 and a row of 6) to make a :new battery. Cover in shrink as above. : :My idea involves wire leads soldered to the original battery terminals. : :It should be years before you need to repeat the exercise. : : : :.... Phil :

I finished by going for a variation of recipe 1.

I used 2 of GP Batteries 12V 23AE

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($2.50 ea) in series with a 9.1V zener. Used the zener to link between the +ve and -ve end of the two batteries and soldered the terminal plates from the original Eveready 411 via short leads to the respective ends of the combination.

I used the red and black end plates along with 2 of the cardboard insulators from the original and epoxied them to the ends of the battery before heatshrinking overall. It is only about 1mm longer than the original but that is no problem at all. Solid as a rock and works well.

I now have to repeat the exercise for the AVO 8.

Thanks for the

Reply to
Ross Herbert

cells in series, connected only by pressure, gives

Phil hasn't taken his pills today.

Reply to
Yaputya

It looks as if someone else has already posted where to get the battery, but if that doesn't work out for you my plan-B might help.

I built a blocking oscillator on a small toroid (such as you can lift from a scrap MOBO) 15 T collector winding, 12 T base winding + 15 Ohm current limit resistor, my meter needed a 30V battery so I gave it 30 T secondary, if yours needs 15V then use 15 T, finish off with rectifier, smoothing & an appropriate zener.

It does mean drilling a hole for the push-button to operate the blocking oscillator and a lead through to the 1.5V D-cell compartment. I still have mine after all these years (A 100k/V Taylor) but its only been used on very rare occasions since I started adding DMMs to my toolkit.

Reply to
Ian Field

over inside and out.

Hi Ross,

I just bought one of these on ebay to add to my multimeter collection but it requires some repairs as it has been modified inside. Do you by any chance have a circuit for this model.

Reply to
tony.lohrey

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