Well, I dunno about that. Most equipment I've had if the headphone jack was 1/8, it would disconnect speakers, and if 1/4, not. But looking at this CA-400, I can only select A or B speakers. I can't choose none. So it makes sense that the headphone would disconnect them. Maybe it's working properly.
Tim R:
My old 1980s Sears one-piece Tuner/Phono/Cassette had 1/4" headphone out, and it cancelled the speakers when I plugged cans into it, just as the 1/8" on my later bookshelf CD/Tuner/Aux.
That Fisher though sounds like one of a kind!
It is. A very common configuration.
have not seen one yet that has that property. The in/out label on any gear is usually for that particular unit. The same exists on tape machines. T here are input and output jacks there as well. The "output" jack on the ta pe should be activated when the tape is in play mode, thus is an output. "
That has not been my experience. In most amps the tape output is pretty muc h at the output of the input selector, or in the case of a Yamaha for examp le, form another separate selector. As such it can be backfed.
If it is buffered or even resistor isolated that will not work so well, but it seems the engineers decided that the low output impedance as worth it t o keep the noise down. As such, not only can it be backfed, it can also be shorted by the wrong thing connected and cause no output. I got this DCD Pr o CD player, commercial, like DJ model. I had it temporarily hooked up wron g because I couldn't really see in the back, it was going IN to the tape OU T. Well when the CD player was shut off it apparently shorts the outputs an d that resulted in no sound from any source.
In another case I had a VHS HIFI, a Sanyo VCR-7200 that when turned off got non linear at the record INPUTS. It caused severe distortion unless it was turned on. It is easy to figure out why, the input stage was probably diod e protected against overvoltage and when the power supply dropped, the shun ting was to zero volts.
It is a piece of wire, the "current" can go both ways.
I didn't mention it before I think, but some of those units used a TC9164 o r something as a selector chip and those did go bad. I had to change a bunc h of them back when. That was how they were - the tape output was the only "input" that would work.
What I don't remember is if those chips fed a CMOS switch set or had it onb oard. Like 4066s, or the cheaper one, 4016 ? Whatever.
I could probably find a print and find out but why don't you just to it ? R ight from Google you got Electrotanya, and then there is hifiengine and hif imanuals. You need a membership to the latter two but they don't charge, th ey don't spam or any of that. I got nothing but good to say about those sit es.
If you need the TC9164 they are out there. I have just Googled it and it se ems they do have the actual switches onboard.
I know that amp is considered BFC by audiophiles but that series of amps is not bad. The circutry is fine, low distortion, all that. Anything the audi ophools don't hear in it is their own problem. The only problem is they are underbuilt, for someone like me. I mean I will work it into 2.3 ohms n shi t, they don't like that, they get too hot. That's why I don't use one, but for normal human beings the are OK.
I can't stand shit like that. Just say it, output or input, not what you connect it to.
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