Will salvaged computer parts work? Even after in the rain?

Jun 17, 2006 29 Replies

Okay. Let's do this. This thread has gotten way too long, with way too little info given. It's an easy fix. First, determine that the fan is fixable: spin the blades by hand. If they do NOT turn freely, then probably a fix is possible. If spin easily, the problem is electrical and a lost cause.

Look at the fan. On one side is usually an adhesive paper label. When you peel that off, you expose the inner hub where the bearings reside. Squirt some sort of solvent in there (I've used WS 40, contact cleaner, LPS, Liquid Wrench or brake cleaner). Turn the fan blade until it moves freely. At this point, I usually connect to power and let the fan spin for several seconds, to work the solvent into the bearings.

Dump out the solvent and repeat. Blow all the excess solvent out. Replace with a few drops of light oil (like 'Three-in-One). Seal the hole with the original label. Add some tape for security (make sure to thoroughly clean the surface of the hub, or the tape/label will not stick).

It should power up now. Use a car battery for your 12v source. If it doesn't, see how far you can throw it....

BTW, this is more mechanical than electrical, if that makes it less intimidating for the OP.

jak

Just took it apart and cleaned it. The motor will work for about 1/2 a revolution before quitting. When manually moving the blade it sticks solid after 1/2 a revolution. So I will add some solvent to the mix and hopefully have a working fan on my hands.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com ha escrito:

when you say it sticks solid, make sure it isnt something simple like the fan blades snarling against the plastic support struts of the fan's structure. they can break (especially if you press hard during removal of the fan from the machine, for example) and obstruct the fan.

-B

Back to the caps> If your looking at 47@100 then if they are not swelled on the top (ESR meter is nice) then if you can pull them do so. These kill powersupply and m/board. Joe.

>
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

i've had one - an AD0812HS - start on as low as 2.8v, stalled at 2.7v and even go up to ~20v. Most computer fans these days I think are designed to run off variable voltage control so the fans can run slowly when the pc is cold, and run faster as the temperature increases.

This is how I learned electronics as a kid - the woods out the back of my house always seemed to have an endless supply of broken radios, tv's, video recorders, burnt out cars/motorbikes, used condoms etc. An infinate supply, it seemed, of electronic components. so I learned how to unsolder stuff, learned what the components did... and it didnt matter if I wired them up wrong and made them go *pop* because it was all free, and there was always replacement parts to play with.

I'm just trying to clarify here so forgive me if I sound pedantic... was the fan still connected to the power supply circuitry when you tested it? or had it been removed from circuit to test as an individual component?

I had removed it from the power supply, but unfortunately in my haste to fix it ended up breaking it. I think the ultimate problem was that the rod on the fan was bent causing it to spin erradically and get stuck. However, the next day I came across a working one from a trashed computer. Oh yeah, your post about learning electronics is similar to my situation. I did make the terrible mistake of working with what I thought was a busted disposable camera and nearly jumped out of my skin when I recieved a rather surprising and painful electrick shock from the flash. It won't stop me from tinkering but it will sure caution me.

"Rory Deol" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

My general rule of thumb is to be very careful if I see any capacitors. The bigger they are, the bigger the jolt.

Puckdropper

Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it. To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Been there, done that, not likely to do it again

Good advice, but check the voltage rating on the caps too. Sometimes even a physically small cap can be rated at a few hundred volts. As a general rule of thumb anything over 50v I class as potentially painful.

Also, make sure you know everything you need to know, and have good training about CRT monitors and televisions before you even consider taking the back off one of these as the picture tube is essentially a massive high voltage (20,000 - 40,000volts) capacitor which can be very nasty - potentially fatal (bear in mind that even 0.5% of this voltage is enough to kill you). The best advice on these is to stear clear of them. The only reason I mention this is because I know that curiosity + ignorance is a dangerous thing, and a few times in my youth i've played around with something only to learn later that I should be dead.

I would say i'm fairly competent with most things electrical, and i've had my fair share of high voltage shocks along my path to enlightenment but even so, the first time I had to discharge a CRT, with my knowledge of the inherent dangers it took me 2 hours to find the balls to do it, and had to change my underwear at least 3 times.

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