Peavey PV2000, 2x 1KW of 2001

Mechanical problems that need sorting before the electrics or will recur.

Each channel has 2 "daughter " board output arrays with power rails via the aluminium hex bar standoffs. One end has the screws nicely soldered on to the main board conductor traces, but these standoff boards just screwed against polyester pcb board, no star washers, contact (in theory) is on the other side of the board, but not with loose screws. This amp is used in alternately both damp and dusty environment so inside looks more like 20 yearold, aluminium corrosion etc. Any mod better than cleaning faces and adding star washers ?

Also the clinch nuts that hold the pa boards away from the top and bottom covers are just clinched into pcb polyester so easily turn and work loose, any mod for that ? are they called clinch nuts in USA ?

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N_Cook
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Would be nice to see some pictures of what you are describing. Appears though that it's a more modernized and moderately redesigned incarnation of the old CS series amps. Your mods sound reasonable. Don't know quite what you mean by clinch nuts.

Reply to
Meat Plow

recur.

the

the

loose,

This amp is 30Kg in weight and because the clinch nuts are so small and flexible top panel, so close to the pcb, someone has post-factory lined the panel with sticky thick plastic sheet. You cannot extend the "nuts" without modifying the single internal bracing metal (full-on engineering).

Clinch nut

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fine if the bolt is pulling the clinch into the polyester but here, with movement (not used in racking) and flexing can pull these clinches out/loosen them.

I'm thinking anvil , flat-head steel screw threaded-in to protect the aluminium and then ground down tip old cross-head screw driver hex-bit hammered on the internal aluminium ring to deform 4 points out into the polyester, on all the clinch nut/standoffs.

For the daughter boards, longer screws and star washer under the heads. And non-ferrous star washer on the electrical side between aluminium pillar and lead'tin/copper, but stainless steel or chromed brass for this position ?

schematic is at eeserviceinfo

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N_Cook

Anyone familiar with the diac+triac circuit in each cnannel? that eeservice schematic is not clear enough on interboard links. The cut-out is just a thermo-electric self-conained mains overload cutout

Reply to
N_Cook

looks as though the diac/triac is for crowbar protection of the speakers from DC fault developement in the amp. On the assumption the mains trip will trip. Anyone know how to test these ? disconnect the output and put some DC there and see what happens, who much DC for a 1KW, 2 ohm speaker bank rating ?

Reply to
N_Cook

I've seen those in use.

Again it's hard to visualize without ever seeing one or in pictures.

Stainless is more stable. Don't know of the chemical interactions between aluminum/lead/tin/copper/stainless/chrome.

Reply to
Meat Plow

Yup seen this before in Peavey design. Older 300 watt base amp IIRC.

Do the math? Google? Never had to test one dynamically.

Reply to
Meat Plow

I've now taken this amp apart. There was one zinc plated nut with captive star washer , loose inside, causing trouble. Now I've found another one, lodged safely, in the base. Can I find where these 2 have come from ? - anyone been here before?. They are loose fitting ,32 TPI , on the other

0.128 inch screws used inside , so presumably 6UNC. As this is in the UK, unlikely 2 would have fallen in the fan access , in a metric-screw UK. Exactly these style nuts are used elsewhere in the amp , but the next size smaller. Most screws in there are tapped clinch nuts or chassis steel.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N_Cook
1 of the 2 nuts holding the IEC socket was off. I wondered why the owner did not hand me the "lump of metal" that he discovered wedged in an active area, he probably dropped it trying to retrieve it, from a visible but awkward place. The screw was in place , with a tight fit , not threaded, through the IEC. Owner out of contact for a few days, so stymied , in case I'm inferring too much, ie 1 nut only.
Reply to
N_Cook

The found nut had no sputter or smoke marks unlike the pcb. Re-clinching with a ground down cross point driver bit and anvil etc, worked well, retapping with 4UNC , because of the corrossion rather than any deformation by my action.

Reply to
N_Cook

More accidents waiting to happen, presumably because this amp is used outdoors at full 2KW whack. Not only the screws holding the daughterboards to the pillars but the pillars to the soldered-in-heads mainboard screws undid in the range of 0.1 to 0.2 N-m , presumably due to creep of the pcb polyester. So presumably a generic problem for all these sort of Peavey amps. So 3 stainless steel star washers each on these active pillars, longer screws and laquer over the exposed screw heads.

Reply to
N_Cook

The hex pillars have been cut with star patterns on the ends which just grind into the polyester on tightening. So I've changed my mind to abraid the pillar ends , 3 st/st crinkle washers , longer screws and laquered heads

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N_Cook

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