Circuit board repair glue that can stand soldering temperature?

I don't think that there are too many places hat repair circuit boards that have been "chomped off", most would just replace the board. I have had some luck with 2 part marine epoxy, that can be purchased from Home Depot. You will still need to be a bit conservative with the heat of the soldering though. Kim

I'm a flight simulator tech working on military simulators.We used to use a visual system that would really fry certain parts of the circuit boards. I'm talking enough crispy critters that at times we had to cut out a hole about the size of a quarter or slightly larger and rebuild the board. We used just regular 5-minute epoxy which we mixed in some circuit board fibres we scrapped off old garbaged circuit boards. That filled in the hole and by the next day everything would be good and dry so we would use the minichine attachment of the Pace kit to grind/sand that area flat with the board again. We would lay out the circuit traces with more 5-minute epoxy and once that was dry we would use "Print Kote" conformal coating to seal the new traces to the repaired area. If there were any solder pads that we replaced with didn't cover those over the coating. The same for where we had to overlap traces. We would use a very small iron to solder to those areas or we would use hot air. It all worked great and we never had any problems. It may seem a bit of a chore to do it this way but when you get a

Cheers, Lawrence

"larry moe 'n curly" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Some years ago I ran into a type of glue or kit meant to repair car exhaust tubes. Did not see it again but you may try a car specialist shop. They will also sell screen heater repair glue but I understand you tried this already.

Some DIY shops overhere sell heater repair kit, meant to repair stoves, fireplaces, barbecues and so on. Maybe to thick for you application but you can give it a try...

petrus bitbyter

Lawrence wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca:

I used to fill in holes from burned components(while at TEK) with epoxy,Dremel them flat and level,drill lead holes,and then used an eyelet kit to hold down the new traces at the solder pads. After soldering in the new part,I would use clear nailpolish to coat the new PCB traces if necessary.

I remember a self adhesive copper tape that was specially made for prototyping circuit boards. RS Components sold it here in the UK. That was solderable and would probably fit your purpose if still available.

Ron(UK)

Something like this for example

Ron(UK)

Oops, that's right too. I forgot to mention the eyelets and funlets for the new solder pads. Thanks for the reminder.

Cheers, Lawrence

Jim Yanik wrote:

Yes. Loctite 608 Hysol used to be called Epoxi-Patch available from Wassco. It was used at Raytheon on government boards and at Jabil Circuit.

Lawrence wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca:

Our field office had a Pace(IIRC) device that would set (and weld,if desired) the eyelets on a PCB,it was handy and easier to use than handholding an eyelet punch and anvil. The device was U-shaped,and had collets for holding the conical punches for setting eyelets,one fixed,and one that would screw in to set the eyelet.There was a hi-current transformer in the base for the welding current,connected to the collets by heavy copper braids.

"James F. Mayer" wrote in news:RCwDf.2862$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net:

I still have a box of clear 608 Epoxy-Patch that I used at TEK,but it's labelled Dexter Corp,Seabrook,NH. It has a 3 minute setting time,sometimes even quicker. The box says 1 min to mix,2 mins to use(for best results). It's probably outdated by now. I would not expect it to hold down copper traces before soldering,though.

I suspect Locktite bought the Dexter Corp?

LMC-

Others have given some good advice. Follow up on their leads and you may find companies that have repair products that will do what you need.

One thing though, soldering is a process that will even ruin the original circuit board material if you're not careful. In your situation, I'd find some way to solder FIRST and then apply whatever epoxy or other adhesive was needed to secure the copper strips.

Fred

The repair people at Raytheon and Jabil Circuit used it all the time for just that. I've cut copper strip and constructed rough "PC" boards with the stuff to hold it to the proto board. Seems to work all right.

I believe that is correct. I have some old tubes of 608 Epoxi-Patch that expired in 1993 that have "Dexter" on them also. I bought some new recently as I was doing some patch antenna bonding to some FR4 and making "rough" "one of" proto boards.

For some reason, I once received a flyer from a company that claimed it could repair all kinds of extensive damage, including plated-through holes in multilayer boards and sections that had cracked or were lost. The before & after pictures they showed made the boards look like new again.

How many seconds can it stand a soldering iron. I did what I thought was a nice repair, but the instant the iron touched the copper, the glue turned to water. :(

Great idea. Thanks. I remember Dad once using a muffler bandage on an exhaust manifold and ended up with a charcoal-covered manifold. :(

I use crazy glue (cyanoacylate). Don't try and solder the copper back together, too much heat is required and will damage the board itself. Use strands of wire and jumper across the cracked sections. I use strands from some 12 gauge stainless steel wire that I have, though regular copper will do. Use a dremel and a very fine drill bit to drill holes in the copper plating on either side of the crack and use a low watt gun(25-30 watts) and a good grade of flux. I also use a pure silver solder, it seems to melt a bit easier and grabs much better and faster. Can be gotten in the plumbing section of most hardware stores and at jewelery supply shops. Usually two or three strands of the stainless wire are sufficient to restore conductivity. On finer areas of copper circuit I usually use an xacto and "rough" up the surface so as to get a better grip for the solder.( on the narrow strip patterns on the board that are too fine to allow for drilling.) Alway scrape lightly and in a single direction, i.e. in the direction of the crack. So as not to pull up the copper plating. If you wind up with an excessive nmber of jumper wires in close proximity and are worried about arcing or cross shorting use either liquid silicone or hot glue on the jumpers as an insulator. Most patches will look like something doctor Frankenstein concocted but will restore the board to functional use. I've restored several audio power amp boards in this fashion and all are still going strong.

"larry moe 'n curly" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

I would worry about what fillers are used and how electrically-conductive they might be,for the muffler bandage or any home-improvement epoxy.