Can't connect power, GFCI weird?

9V/25microamps = 360Kohms

360Kohms isn't going to load a 9V battery (unless it is already flat).

This works out to about 30mA per GFCI. Sounds like the normal trip current to me. ???

I would remove the GFCI's completely and do an insulation test (megger) on the newly installed wiring alone. If you can't do a megger test then try a simple test with your dmm. That will prove whether the wiring has any insulation breakdown to neutral or earth. Test the GFCI's while they are on the bench and see what you get.

25

flat).

The reason I said that is the voltage across the battery terminals is more when it isn't connected to the circuit.

Ohms

If it was the trip current, seems a little high... but the conditions for tripping don't exist (as far as I can tell).

The branches disconnected from the GFCI are open between L, N, and ground. Continuity begins as soon as the GFCI outlets are put back into the circuit.

25

battery

Ohms

are

an

between

defective;

Seems

you might be seeing the load of the internal power supply inside the GFI that power the GFI itself.

the DMM is probably seeing the completly discharged filter cap inside the GFI which will charge up and draw less current when you connect it to the AC line.

Mark

The wiring itself should be ok then. Taking a look at the way a GFCI works

then with no load connected to the output of the GFCI then connecting an ohmmeter across L - N at the input should read high resistance.

Sam Goldwasser has a page devoted to GFCI and their working so you might get some further insight from there.

Good luck.

Forgot to post Sam's link

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I received a reply from Pass & Seymour's technical support. As part of their "line load reversal test procedure," there is a small resistor in the GFCI that makes it trip when the outlet is first energized. I don't know if this procedure refers to what happens when first energized, or if it is some other test that is performed during the manufacturing process.

In any event, I (bench) tested this on one outlet, then on the curcuit described. All 3 outlets duly tripped and the lights came on. After resetting, all are open between L and N, and the circuit is functioning correctly.

Thanks to all those who replied.

Good to see you got it solved. Don't they provide a TEST button on those units?

It is strange that the manufacturer doesn't provide that information on a leaflet or instruction supplied with the GFCI. Perhaps you should suggest that they do so to avoid confusion and a repeat of the problem for others.

Now if you hadn't been so inquisitive you would have just powered it up like anyone else and you wouldn't have been any the wiser as to the initial leakage reading.

:-)

They have the test and reset buttons, but these only workwhen connected to mains, and I was reluctant to do that until I understood the reason for the continuity.

should

problem

The leaflet went into some length about the line and load sides, etc., but nothing about this. I hope the tech supp rep alerts their publication folk, because emails to them since I received the reply have gone unanswered.

the

I was testing my wiring and not the outlets, and it was refershing to find that my stuff was actually OK!

Why do you have 3 GFCI outlets on the same circuit? Only the first one on the line needed to be a GFCI and it would protect all the other outlets after it. You could also use a single GFCI breaker and then all the outlets on that branch circuit would be protected. At least that's the way mine work. I am glad to here you solved your problem though, I would have been surprised as well at the reading. They really should document that.

Bill

Sure, you can use a single GFCI (usually DIN rail mount) in the distribution box to supply up to the maximum number of outlets on any branch circuit. But, you can also buy GFCI outlets which fit the standard wall outlet mounting box.

I suspect they were developed to make it easy to convert existing outlets to GFCI protected circuits without interfering with the distribution board wiring. It is certainly a more expensive way to go compared to fitting a single GFCI in the distribution box, that's for sure.

How it's done in the USA/Canada is that one GFI is put in an outlet box and then a number of outlets are run from that so all those downstream are protected.

--
N

one on

outlets

outlets

mine

I figured if I did it that way, diagnosing a trip or other condition would required knowing about the upstream outlet. I tried to minimize such "non-local" effects by just putting GFCIs anywhere that no major appliances would be plugged in. They were

first

condition

rather

I haven't been very clear in my wording, but the GFCIs are fed from the same breaker. However they are in parallel across this set of wires, and they connect to the wires only at the 'Line' terminals, not the 'Load' ones. I think in this situation each should trip iff there is a leakage associated with the load connected to itself only.

Yes, that's correct.

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