Voltage regulators fail high

YOU are totally insane.

I regularly use that trick for different reasons, except it won't stop the lift that much. Can save on the cost of a heatsink. A power resistor's MUCH cheaper.

The dissipation goes down, so the regulator won't blow. That's why I do it.

Graham

ps. just because it's rated at 1A doesn't mean it can survive 1A output at ANY input voltage without being heatsunk. TO-220 in fresh unobstructed room temp airflow will only survive around 2W without a heatsink.

Do I need to paste in the upper half of the reply so that I can make you look like a total asshole? Well, I guess that might to difficult to do, since you're already there.

It's well known that you like to cut up messages so that you can re'engineer it's meaning for your own little pathetic regressive child play. Guess you have nothing of value to offer so you resort to fabrication.

In short, its obvious that you're an old dog, and you know what they say about that!

Eeyore wrote

Well then who's the bigger idiot?

I always catch them before thay get that far.

DipShit

I explained in another post how it happens when I do it you illiterate pommy piece of shit.

one sure way to kill 'em is to feed the reverse polarity.

one way to get them to do that is to not connect the earth pin

most (few) failed ones i've seen did not pass any current.

connect the 7805 to the supply and the breadboard to the 7805,

use a screw terminal strip or similar. connect the supply negative to centre pin and the circuit negative to the tab that way if any connection (external to the device) fails you'll just get no power from the 7805.

many devices have a diode before the 7805 to protect them from accidentally reversed supply.

best solution may be to get a regulated 5V supply. or use 4 NIMH cells if you need battery power, 4 of them in series produce close enough to 5V for most "5V" chips.

that's nuts :)

a polyswitch ?

I believe that the manufacturer recommends that those are not used continuously in the "overload" state. Also they don't have a nice copper tab to bolt to the thing you want to heat. Someone should make something like the 7805 but specified for heating and with a more accurate temperature control. Of course it would cost more than a few cents then due to smaller sales volume and less price competition.

Chris