I am guessing that you do not understand the voltage current relationship.
The load wihch in your case is 3 volts and 2 ma (assuming it is not changing) is the equal of 1500 ohms. YOu do not need to limit the current as that is automatically done if you only supply 3 volts. By simple math, if you have 3 volts, then the only current that can flow is 2 ma. Also by the same math if 2 ma is flowing only 3 volts will cause that.
Just plug in 1500 ohms for the 3 V, 2 ma load in the formulars you are using.
That is why I said all you need is one resistor if the load is a constant 3 V, 2 ma. You are starting with 12 V so 12-3= 9. YOu must drop 9 V at 3 ma. So 9/.002 = 4500 ohms.
The voltage devider only works if there is no load. As you add a load, the voltage across the series resistor will drop as the current is made larger. To account for that, you have to know the equivilent resistance value of the load. Which in this case is 1500 ohms. So you have 2 resistors in series and in parallel with one of them which you are calling R2 you have the equivilent of 1500 ohms to account for. That is why if you use the values you started with you will only have half the voltage or 1.5 volts instead of
3 volts.
It is easy to get confused on the voltage deviders if you do not allow for the ammount of current that the load on across the R2 has. If you put a meter that has about 10 meg of input impedance like many of the digital meters have, you see 3 volts, but with the load only about 1.5 volts. The digital meter has a high enough impedance to make the very slight error unnoticable. Sort of like putting a single brick on a pickup truck. You know it is there, but the truck is so heavy you just can not measure it with most practical scales.
Since you're clearly not willing to read what I write as evidenced by your response (I said nothing of any DMM spec sheet), I'm going to disregard any of your future responses.
I'm not sure what you're getting from your participation in a group labeled "basics". You remind me of why I stopped using Usenet back in the day (started in the late 80s).
Simply put, you're an arrogant asshole. I've seen it time and time again in dozens of groups covering as many topics. Take comfort in your false sense of superiority. I'm far kinder to those ignorant of my areas of expertise.
** No, I am simply not willing to BELIEVE anything what you write.
Cost it is obviously all crap.
** No, they all show I read what you posted very carefully.
** Looked just like you were quoting from one though.
Why the secrecy ?
Why refuse to post where those two numbers came from ??
You must be some sort of anal nut bag.
** No you won't.
** To find an shoot down trolling nut cases like you - buddy.
** Fraid the REAL arrogant ASSHOLE is YOU !! I've seen fuckwits like YOU, time and time again in dozens of groups covering many topics.
Instead of posting all the facts ( so others would know what they actually have and what they are really doing ) smartarse anal nut cases like YOU hide all the facts.
They foolishly imagine doing this is the way to control the discussion and make it go their way.
Got news for you pal - it don't work like that.
No poster can control the discussion on such a public forum.
I have a few questions. You put what you say was 2ma to the control pin and the fan spun up.
1)Did it spin up to full speed?
2)Do you want full speed?
3)Do you want it variable?
1) If it wasn't full speed, the 4500 ohms resistor might need to be lower in value, but I wouldn't jump right in and raise it to 12 volts. But you could lower it 10% and see if the motor speeds up.
2) If it was full speed, and you want variable, put a 10K variable resistor in series with the 4500 ohm resistor, then you can adjust the
10k variable resistor to vary the speed.
3) My opinion is you don't need a regulator, and a single series resistor will do. If you want it variable you still want a fixed resistor in series so if you turn the variable resistor all the way up you don't put 12 volts on the control pin. Although we still don't know the range the control input needs.
Can you get a meter on the actual motor leads? If yes, we can have some real fun!
1) I can't say that it was full speed, but it was certainly high speed and moving a lot of air. FWIW, when I changed the setting of the multimeter to the 2000 Ohm setting (lower voltage, about 0.6V), the speed slowed to abou t half based on noise and perceived air flow. However, if I disconnected t he DMM and reconnected on the 2000 Ohm setting, the fan would not turn. Re applying the 200 Ohm setting would fire the fan back up and I could repeat the speed decrease by switching to 2000 Ohms.
2) I'm good with the speed attained.
3) If it can be done simply as you describe, it would be nice, but I'm real ly okay with full speed.
I plan to experiment a bit this weekend. I'm not sure what would be accomp lished by probing the motor leads, but I'm game. I can't probe the fan as- installed as the criteria for getting the fan to come on involves high temp readings on the DC-DC converter, BCM or battery pack. However, I have a s pare that I can play with if you have suggestions. it's one of these:
formatting link
The whole purpose of this exercise is to be able to run the fan while I'm g rid charging at ~195V/350mA. It doesn't generate a lot of heat, but the se aled battery compartment allows it to accumulate. Full speed is overkill, but it beats a cooked pack.
beled "basics". You remind me of why I stopped using Usenet back in the da y
le jusr want others to do well in electronics.
ut that.
Indeed. I'm not contesting his expertise. I'm questioning his motivation. G iven the expertise, I see only two real motivations in this situation, 1) h e wants to contribute his knowledge, or 2) he wants to demonstrate his supe riority. The bulk of the data thus far supports #2.
His type is pervasive. They are lacking something in either themselves or t heir lives and they fill the hole with, "Oh yeah, I'm smarter than you!"
The point was, if you can measure the motor voltage, then you could increase the control pin until you get 12 volts on the motor. You wouldn't want to raise it any more without knowing the circuit. This assumes it is PWM.
On the 200 ohm setting you had enough current to over come the torque required to start the motor, when you switched 2000 ohm it had enough current to keep it rotating. Trying to start at the 2000 ohm setting there was not enough current to produce the torque required to start the motor.
Mikek
--
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More potential ignorance... Since it's PWM, the fan voltage is always 12V, it's just pulsed. Will a meter read an "average" voltage, e.g., if it's at 75% duty cycle, I will read 9V assuming a linear relationship between duty cycle and voltage?
complished by probing the motor leads, but I'm game.
o come on involves high temp readings on the DC-DC converter,
Mikek,
I'm trying to understand PWM, and your questions are a bit confusing. Base d on what I've read about how computer PWM fans work, they "pulse" a curren t (around 3-5V and
Steve, an essential USENET skill (any-"NET" for that matter) is to just ignore the trolls. Phil oscillates between being a valuable resource on audio circuits and an incensed troll. No amount of talk will get him down from the trees when he's chosen to go there, so you need to just ignore him. Or bait him on purpose, if it makes you feel better. But trust me
-- many people have tried talking sense to him, and all it does is get him worked up.
He's:
--> very trustworthy on audio stuff
--> less reliable on regulatory and "that'll burn your house down" stuff
--> not at all reliable when you can tell that there's spittle hitting the computer screen.
.I believe what I have done is inadvertently applied a 100% duty cycle PWM signal with 3V and 2mA, so I >suspect the fan is running at 100%. I will try to confirm this over the weekend. Where my logic fails is at the >second setting of much lower voltage and current. If my understanding of PWM is accurate, I would expect it to >shut off if the current is too weak rather than decrease speed.
I don't know the setup of your motor, but I was thinking that the supply is the 12 volts and the lead with the 3 volts on it is the speed determing wire. With a constant voltage on it,it is running full speed as it is a 'pulse' of 100 % . If you fed that wire some pulses then the speed would change. Just a guess.
When meters are fed pulses they can show many differant voltages depending on the meter. Most will try and average them. Some will try to show a true RMS value. Often depends if an analog or digital meter.
As has been expressed to you before, nothing can, always and simultaneously, put out a given voltage at a given current, because the current at any given voltage (or voltage at any given current) depends on the load, not the source.
So in the context that you quote it, your "3V, 2mA output" is completely meaningless. Something else is happening, and I suspect that you want to know what that is.
From elsewhere I know that you learned the "3V, 2mA" figure from a meter data sheet. Here are some observations:
1: That's a data sheet. Data sheets lie on rare occasions, commonly obfuscate, and are often not written to be easy to understand for the general public. So you don't want to trust your reading of one unless it's been a close reading, and you're firm in your knowledge of the subject.
2: You've been assured that it's physically impossible by more than one person, the majority of whom have been calm and helpful about it.
3: A common practice, when one runs into questions on a data sheet, is to MEASURE. Get another meter (or two), and measure the voltage on the "3V, 2mA" input, and measure its current, too, if that floats your boat.
4: Just because it works with 3V (or whatever) on the control input doesn't mean that it won't suffer long-term damage. Your best bet would be to measure what's going on at that input when the thing is in a car, working. If you can get access to a car (even a junker) and MEASURE, you'll know way better. It could be that the input is supposed to be 12V, or 5V, or something, and that 3V just barely turns it on, and leaves it sputtering on and off. It could be that 3V is exactly right -- you don't know.
If the fan is on a fused automotive circuit, and you're bypassing that power source, you might want to insert a similar fuse in your 'alternate' power connection. As for the 'signal to activate', that sounds like it might be TTL logic (and that means we cannot be sure that it sinks 2 mA; it could as easily SOURCE 2 mA, the polarity DOES matter).
If the fan runs when the signal is at +3V, and does NOT run when the signal pin is left open, and does NOT run when the signal pin is grounded, then probably that signal pin has a pulldown resistor and runs on 3V logic. The "PWM" feature could be implemented by putting a variable duty cycle onto the signal pin, i.e. constant 3V drive makes the motor run full speed.
A two-resistor voltage divider, output 3V and impedance about 100 ohms, would be suitable to arrange this ( +12V360 ohms120 ohmsGND). If the 12V source is not regulated, some provision to prevent overvoltage events on the logic signal pin is recommended. Automotive +12 power is allowed to have occasional 60V spikes... a fan doesn't usually care, but logic inputs will.
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