Have you had any experience with painted heat sinks? I have a customer who would like a painted finish and I'm having a hard time finding the thermal conductivity of paint so I can calculate what the thermal effect would be.
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John Larkin
It's huge compared to the thermal conductivity of still air, so it won't change things much. The only interesting case would be with high-velocity forced air flow, where it may be worth doing the math.
Why not anodize? That's probably easier than painting.
John
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John Larkin
Radiation effect is tiny at the temperatures seen on ordinary heat sinks. The paint's thermal resistance will likely make things worse than any increase in radiation.
John
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w_tom
With each change of medium is an increase in thermal resistance. CPU to thermal compound to heatsink has higher thermal resistance (conducts less heat) than CPU direct to heatsink. Thermal resistance increased due to medium changes.
Yes, you can paint the heatsink. Probably matters little the type of paint used. Medium is heatsink, through paint, then to air (3 mediums) instead of heat direct to air (2 mediums). The third medium causes thermal resistance increase. Then there is this thing called black body radiators which also would be lost in painting.
Up front number is 'degrees C per watt' which includes thermal resistance of those medium changes. That number is what heatsink manufacturers (the responsible ones) and you both worry about. Painting will only adversely increase that number.
Would not worry about pa> Have you had any experience with painted heat sinks? I have a customer
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John Larkin
The site comes up blank in my browser, but in any case, this is where I get my dogs:
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I just spotted an Arby's a few miles away the other day, but the nearest Wendy's and In-n-Out are about 5 miles away. )-;
Thanks! Rich
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Spehro Pefhany
Radiation works both ways, though, and if you've got hot stuff nearby (such as those thermionic devices or some kind of space-based thermonuclear reactor) you could get the HS 'seeing' the hot stuff rather than reflecting the IR off. So maybe they should be black on the cold side and shiny on side that sees the sun or whatever.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
"it\'s the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
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Keith Williams
The "color" in visible light is irrelevant, unless the HS is radiating in the visible spectrum. I suggest this is usually badness in this bidness. ;-)
Keith
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Spehro Pefhany
Black and shiny are not colors.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
"it\'s the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
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John Larkin
According to the little prog I have, a heatsink of 100 sq cm area, 50 C above ambient, emissivity = 1.0, radiates a tad under 4 watts. That's about 12.5 c/watt, and a 50C rise is pretty radical in most apps. For a 30C rise, more reasonable maybe, it's more like 2 watts.
If it's inside a non-black box, some of its radiation will be reflected back. Similarly, parallel fins mostly just radiate at each other, which can defeat most of the radiative cooling effect.
John
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w_tom
No, that was, "heers Phil Hobbs", as in, "Heeeere's Johnny!" ;-P
Beers! Rich
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Ignoramus4324
I suspect that using black paint can actually improve heat dissipation, due to increased radiation of heat as opposed to a shiny reflective surface.
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GregS
Powder coat is probably thicker than standard paint, which may hinder things.
greg
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Dave
Radiocity equation at the end of this paper may be insightful,
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Gandalf
If you're using convective cooling and have cool surroundings to radiate to, glossy black oil based enamel will considerably boost the cooling over bare aluminum. Anodizing doesn't seem to do anything for the long wavelength infrared radiation needed for the lower heatsink surface temps.
On one project, I needed .35C/W cooling but the best aluminum extrusion I could buy would only give .5C/watt. By painting with black oil enamel, I got my .35C/W.
If you're using forced air on a relatively cool (less than 100C) aluminum heatsink, anodizing would be the simplest way to get color without affecting performance.
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John Larkin
While playing with my new IR thermometer, I tried measuring the light fixture above my drafting table. The polished brass part measured well over 100C with a thermocouple but barely above room temp with the IR.
John
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Keith Williams
Ok, black or shiny in the visible range may not be so black or shiny in the far infra-red.
Keith
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Adrian Tuddenham
That may be good for the written specification, but it is not what you want for outdoor P.A. gear which may be used in strong sunshine; it will absorb more radiant energy because of it.
I'm not sure that all polished metals reflect infra-red wavelengths well, either. I have recollections of 'reflective' car tools getting very hot when left lying around in the sunshine.
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
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Roger Hamlett
Yes. And some colours that can be quite 'unexpected', can be very good IR radiators. Certain white paints, are actually good IR absorbers and radiators in the NIR, and IR sections of the spectrum, while some quite dark appearing coatings are poor (hint, normal 'anodised' aluminium is not good in this section of the spectrum...).
Best Wishes
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Daniel Lang
That is why telescope domes are painted white using a paint that is dark in the thermal IR region. It mimimizes heat absorption during the day and helps the domes cool off faster at night.
Daniel Lang
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Spehro Pefhany
Perhaps the IR thermometer's assumption of e = 0.95 was a mite off.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
"it\'s the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
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