Having mixed results with Terk IR remote control repeaters, I stumbled onto Channel Vision and Xantech who "inject" the IR signal onto existing house-wired coax and reproduce it at some point down the cox.
Unfortunately they don't (seem to) have parts that address how my house is wired...
My system is "home-run"... all coax goes to a central closet and are connected to a distribution amplifier... five separate output ports.
Anyone know how the Channel Vision or Xantech systems work so I could roll my own (or modify)?
...Jim Thompson
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| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
That is not what the term "home-run" means in cable speak.
The device that converts from received IR signal bursts to a signal which gets modulated through a cable TV coax run MUST be attached to said cable at some point. That transducer, and the cable link from it to you distribution amp is where you would split off. From that split is where you would put the other transducer.
Note; this is not an "over coax" system. You can hook these up with twisted wire. I suggest you download the instructions from their website to see how far you can extend the IR target. The IR Target device is the "critical" piece as far as operating with most remotes. The connecting block I beleive has the emitter coupled amps to drive up to 4 IR emitters for the cable boxes and receivers.
Beware, when you use such a system, you need to make sure that the remote control is not "seen" by both the IR target and the device you are controlling simultaneously or there will be "delay spread" which will corrupt the signalling. In my case, since the devices I am controlling are inside a teak wall cabinet, unless the doors are open, all works fine. If the target were remotely installed in another room, then conceivably, the devices *cable box etc) could be out in the open and the remote would work fine locally.
Correct, Xantech. Those worked fine, it was another product Smarthome sells called the "Hidden IR System" (much cheaper) that won't work with
56 kHz remotes. The above equipment I bought to piece together a working replacement for the Hidden IR system which did not work. In my application, I am concealing the video devices and need to remote the IR outside a wall cabinet system.
wire. I suggest you download the instructions from their website to see how far you can extend the IR target. The IR Target device is the "critical" piece as far as operating with most remotes. The connecting block I beleive has the emitter coupled amps to drive up to 4 IR emitters for the cable boxes and receivers.
control is not "seen" by both the IR target and the device you are controlling simultaneously or there will be "delay spread" which will corrupt the signalling. In my case, since the devices I am controlling are inside a teak wall cabinet, unless the doors are open, all works fine. If the target were remotely installed in another room, then conceivably, the devices *cable box etc) could be out in the open and the remote would work fine locally.
What I'm wanting to do is control the cable box (in the great room) from both the kitchen and my office ;-)
Which is why, after the less-than-stellar-performing RF-link Terk experience, I'm looking into the insert-IR-on-coax systems.
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
wire. I suggest you download the instructions from their website to see how far you can extend the IR target. The IR Target device is the "critical" piece as far as operating with most remotes. The connecting block I beleive has the emitter coupled amps to drive up to 4 IR emitters for the cable boxes and receivers.
control is not "seen" by both the IR target and the device you are controlling simultaneously or there will be "delay spread" which will corrupt the signalling. In my case, since the devices I am controlling are inside a teak wall cabinet, unless the doors are open, all works fine. If the target were remotely installed in another room, then conceivably, the devices *cable box etc) could be out in the open and the remote would work fine locally.
I tried those Pyramid IR- RF links and they were terrible. Far better to go with a wired in approach. The insert IR approach is going to require some sort of "DC" injector to get signal onto and off the coax. Then you have to deal with supplying power at the IR Target's amplifier as well as the IR splitter amp. Personally, I would pull some new wires.
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