HELP Issue triggering door bell with relay circuit

When the relay isn't energised, the bell should be completely disconnected. I'd have to wonder whether the relay is defective.

I'm a bit suspicious of the way the relay is controlled - a slowly reducing coil current doesn't seem very nice.

Sylvia.

Hello Sylvia,

I tried to follow the circuit as it was laid out. What would you suggest fo r this setup? Should I replace the relay? It just acts weird, at one point when I would press one of the buttons it triggered multiple lamps as though voltage was feeding back in to the circuit via the relay. Once the bell sy stem was disconnected it worked normally.

You could check the diode connected across the relay coil, and that it's really connected to the rest of the circuit (it may look as if it is, but dry joints can be deceptive).

Beyond that, I'm afraid to say that I find the entire circuit questionable. It quite needlessly uses dangerous voltages, which among other things makes it more difficult to diagnose circuit faults.

Sylvia.

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

100ohms and 1000uF should give a pulse on the relay well under 1 second in duration

so the gong solenoid should spend most of its time unpowered and not heat up noticably,

perhaps you've got the normally closed relay contacts in the gong circuit instead of the normally open relay contacts.

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I would agree since the OP said:- "What I'm seeing after I press one of the game show switches is the corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings."

So it does a ding after the delay.

t

Yes, it lights a bulb after the button press, then the bell dings like a se cond later. But it seems as though the striker stays stuck for a bit longer past that. I plan to purchase a 220 uF capacitor since it doesn't need a l onger power time and recheck the connections to my relay.

hing with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-ou t function all work.

ransformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I' m using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

scharging fast enough.

Unless I'm mistaken, the capacitor will see rather high DC voltage, I hope it's rated for a hundred or two hundred volts. The parallel resistor (51 ohms) is th e only reason it doesn't get nearly full rectified 120VAC (about 170 VDC). If you want a single 'ding' of the bell, it's usually better to trickle-cha rge a capacitor then switch it onto the load; I'd implement this with a capacitor+zener to make a low-ripple DC supply, and a '555 configured as a one-shot.

Hello,

Thanks to all who offered their valuable advice and knowledge. The project is complete and working great!!! I found that the door bell was wired to th e NC instead of NO, I misinterpreted the layout on the back of the baggie. Also, I found that there was a bad diode in relay portion of the circuit. R eplaced the diode, and connected to the NO, no need to step down the size o f the capacitor.

Thanks Again!!

Ariel