Circuit Breaker 22AIC

Ok, but that's not the same as "nothing else". It just means you don't know the wattage and you won't do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?

You still didn't say how large the unit is, but I suppose it's not a small unit if you can't move it. Maybe buy less groceries and eat your way to lightening it?

That's not the question.

Ok, end of discussion. You only have a small amount of reserve on your 20 amp line when the microwave is in use. I doubt you can use the ten laptops with the microwave.

So now, the only question is if the laptops can be used with the fridge. If so, you need to circuits. If not, you need three.

Good luck and enjoy

I've never seen a 120V appliance draw over 1440W. But then here it's very uncommon to see 20A circuits.

OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW

1.2A 115VAC Ice maker power:145W Defrost power:180W

I just need to relay switch off half of the laptops or the fridge when using the microwave.

The induction motors in fridge compressors have low starting torque so they don't start easily if the system has pressure already

Starting the compressor too soon after it last stopped can result in it stalling.

Typically this causes it to overheat ans trip the thermal breaker. (Klixon type thing) once it cools down and the breaker resets ( automatically) the pressure will have then dissipated and it will start.

This increases wear in the breaker and thermal aging on the compressor, but it won't break anything immediately.

OK. i'll relay cycle the laptops. Cutting power to the charger briefly should not be a problem. I would have to reinstall the batteries (removed since it's not necessary when A/C powered).

For the microwave, maximum power is 1500W using the lazy single button (30 seconds per push), but there are other buttons for lower power.

Cite And what is the NEC definition of "major appliance"?

Cite exception.

There is an exception that a refrigerator can be on its own 15A circuit. ("Small appliance branch circuits" are 20A.)

The requirement is less than 80% of the circuit rating. The 80% requirement elsewhere in the NEC is for "continuous loads" (over 3 hr.). UL appears to follow the 80% for continuous rating rule. (A UL listed device may violate the NEC. IMHO the NEC is wrong.)

Those are all (except microwave) "fastened in place" and can only use

50% of the circuit rating. From their location I don't believe they can be connected to the "small appliance branch circuits".

===================================================== It is likely there are 2 "small appliance branch circuits". Put the microwave and refrig on different circuits. (Someone must have suggested this).

=============================== The "available fault current" is the current you can get at a particular location with a solid short. It is important at panels, and the panel and breakers must have an interrupt capacity (AIC) that is larger. The available fault current depends on the transformer ratings and the primary and especially secondary wiring. At a transformer connected to an "infinite bus" a guess is the available fault current is 50x the transformer rated secondary current. What I remember is that the "available" is likely less that 10KA for urban detached family.

I seldom see 110v appliances at all. Ours appliances are limited to 3.1kW, and circuits to 7.68kW continuous, at least double that short term.

It's odd to read the explanations of the problem & it's solution in this thread, neither of which line up in any way with what they would be here on 240v. Fwiw... power consumption is far below tha capabilities of a standard 32A 240v circuit, so the trip cause would be inrush current. The standard solution is to change to a type C mcb or rcbo. No-one puts fridges on dedicated circuits, you'll notice a trip far sooner if it's on a standard shared circuit.

Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don't know why you didn't include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn't have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn't be Eddie Lee.

Is 0.4A out of 20A such an important factor? Or you are missing the point.

This is correct. AIC is the maximum rated current the breaker can interrupt. I doubt you will have thousands of amps to interrupt but you might.

boB

As usual, your math is not up to par. Where do you get 0.4A???

The fridge is 1.2A. The ice maker is 1.2A. The defroster is 1.5A.

I'm sure I am missing the point. But that's because, like all of your projects, you can't provide the information in a clear manner. You have to scatter it over many posts, in many forms such that the only real project is trying to understand what you are asking about.

OK, 1.5A - 1.2A, or 0.3A. So, I am off by 0.1A out of 20A.

You point out that the defroster is unusually high, which is 0.3A more than typical running power. My point is that 0.3A is not an important factor. Unless you are missing the point, the decimal point.

Why do you read things that I don't write??? This is why it is so difficult to help you. My point is that you are difficult to get accurate info from. This makes it difficult to know what you are talking about. It's not just this one number. I have said several times that you have failed repeatedly to provide clear information about the overall project.

Good luck on your project.

You said: "Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don't know why you didn't include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn't have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn't be Eddie Lee."

Is 0.3A more that important?

Again, you have no idea what I was saying. That's ok. None of this is important.

Enjoy your project.

OK, I figure out that the hood fan and waste disposal are on dedicated circuit, and the microwave should tap into this circuit. So, i need to do a few things:

1. Both outlets under the sink are switched. That's wrong. Only the top should be switched. The bottom outlet should be always on. Have to fix the wiring.
2. Drill a hole on the side of the sink cabinet and run a wire to the microwave.
3. Never turn on hood fan, waste disposal and microwave at the same time.

No, the hood fan is wired separately from the same circuit breaker.

Yes, that's what I am planning to fix. The top receptacle connect via the switch, but the bottom one should wire directly without the switch. That's how it is wired for some other light receptacles. I think it's just an oversight that they didn't do it under the sink.

I would remove it before vacating the apartment.