AC Plug Pack (wall wart) plugs - suggestions please

im pretty sure there are no good options, but I,m just checking

So, your "wall wart" delivers AC?

Can you put a bridge just inboard of the connector and cover the DC +, DC -, and AC cases?

[You're still at the mercy of wrong voltage rating...]

==================

** Though possible this rarely happens. You need to clearly label your AC pack with the name of the item it goes with and a warning that it be used with no other.

Try to make the item damage proof if used with a DC pak up to 12V.

..... Phil

First suggestion: make sure the inlet port is clearly labeled, both polarity and voltage, DC or otherwise. Hope for curious folk to find the specification, and test for fit of the mechanical bits.

Less interesting: if you use an AC pack, in-the-device bridge or voltage-doubler rectification, then follow up with a switchmode supply, you can't get the wrong polarity, and maybe can tolerate the highest of the safe-low-voltage input possibilities. I've done this with 36-70VDC telecom power modules, it works (within limits, at a cost).

I once spent 20 minutes on the phone to customer support for a device (a very important IEEE 802.3 to IEEE 1284 converter needed for payroll) because the power pack had gone missing, just while they were telling me that I had to have their genuide power pack, the screwless case came open in my hands to reveal a bridge rectifier, 100uF cap and an LM7805. I soon found a suitable power pack.

--
  Jasen.

One simple solution is run the kit at the highest commonish wart voltage, 3

0 or 32v. And always make your warts output ac so psu polarity doesn't matt er. Another is to add overvoltage protection. Another is to have the dc soc ket insde the appliance case. Another is to put the whole wart inside the a ppliance with just a mains connector user accessible. etc etc.

NT

Use two connectors, one for each pole.

--
Cheers 
Clive

The only vaguely common alternatives I've seen are round DIN plugs or

3.5 mm phone plugs. BITD modems ran off 24VAC warts with those same round connectors. A D-sub might work.

Alternatively, nearly all the warts I've seen use 2.1 or 2.5 mm centre pins, 5.5 mm outside. Maybe use an odd size, like this one?

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

http://electrooptical.net 
http://hobbs-eo.com

Sadly, I confess I have done it. An LED clock that used 5volts got it's own wake up call when I plugged 12 volts into it. I really needed the clock and I liked it too.

Yep, I was thinking that would be the best I could do.

Thanks

I think they are used in Android devices.

That will work.

Thank you all. I think clear labels is the only practical and aesthetically acceptable solution. Sometimes you can't fully protect against stupid.

While most manufacturers distribute wall warts that just bear "generic" labeling (Vin@Iin, Vou@Iout), you could actually tag the wall wart with a label indicating its PURPOSE: "Frajistat9000 Power Supply".

Of course, then you can't leverage a common part for multiple devices (and may require the wall wart vendor to label them for you)

I have systematically gone through EVERY wall wart, brick and "other" power adapter, here, and affixed labels declaring their intended mates. I find it makes it a lot easier to ensure the correct power adapter stays with its intended device (as power adapters seem to "congregate" and lose their distinguishing identities!)

[The ptouch labelers are great for this sort of thing]

I also label *devices* that seem to shy away from clearly identifying their make/model -- so I can later figure out which device mates to a particular wall wart (what good is labeling the wall wart if you can't identify the device??)

Ah, the "benefits" of having everything "Hecho en China"... :<

Is that a Polish joke? :)

-- Never piss off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)

one shared between 2 poles.

Sure, they're going to be used by somebody, or they wouldn't still be available. The key is to make the conjunction rare.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

http://electrooptical.net 
http://hobbs-eo.com

That's why we standardized on +24V. AC won't kill our boxes because of the unidirectional TVS, series Schottky rectifier, and polyfuse. However, as you go lower in voltage, your box will draw more operating current, so it'll require that much more fault current to switch the polyfuse if somebody plugs in the wrong wart.

24V at least.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

http://electrooptical.net 
http://hobbs-eo.com

I gather you're retired. ;)

AFAICT the use of AC warts mostly went out with the 56kbaud modem, and for good reason. That approach requires gigundo wet Al filter caps and so on in order to be able to handle 50-60 Hz AC. What a waste.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

http://electrooptical.net 
http://hobbs-eo.com

We like 24 because it's unlikely that anybody has a higher voltage wart around, to plug in by mistake.

Of course, my new pulse generator ships with a 48v wart!