wire that heat strips insulation

At one time I was using some of the wire wrap wire to build things but soldered it in instead of goig the wire wrap way.

I looked on ebay and seems to me that wire is still sort of high as I would think like you said, almost no one would be using it now. Just about all the new stuff is SMD.

With the new software one can draw up the circuit and have a PC board made for almost nothing now.

A ham made a modification to the uBITX transceiver and would ship 2 PC boards that were about an inch square and had 2 or 3 transistors, resistors and capacitors for only $ 5 . Said that was about his cost.

Sure wish there were some local surplus stores close to me, but none around.

de ku4pt

Reply to
Ralph Mowery
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I fully expect it is. I have enough for a lifetime.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

I've used both types.

The stuff that looks like magnet wire has to be tinned before you use it. My experience was that it took longer to get the insulation to melt than it would have taken to strip wire-wrap wire.

The meltable plastic coating has the advantage that you don't have to measure it, You stick the end on the pad and solder it. Then you set the appropriate position on the second pad and solder that. You cut it off and go on to the next one...or for wire connected to multiple places, you just keep laying it down and tacking it to the new location.

It's demonstrably faster for repeated mods to lots of units. But you can't easily/visually verify that you have a reliable connection. There's melted plastic in/around the joint.

30 years ago, parts and traces were a lot bigger. Today, finding a place to solder anything is a challenge.
Reply to
mike

Yep, same here. It makes good "hookup wire" for PCB interconnects. It can also end up looking like a rats nest.

Yeah, I was also surprised at the high prices. I guess the supply of surplus wire is slowly disappearing. So, buy cut pieces, which I don't think anyone but hobbyists want: $50 is quite a bit for a pile of wire, but I think you get everything in the photo (157 bags) which should last you a lifetime.

Yep, breadboarding is mostly dead. However, I still make quite a few modifications to existing boards, and a few one of a kind prototypes, where breadboard style construction is still efficient.

He's not going to get rich selling at cost.

Yep. Digging through the huge piles of surplus electronic junk in the Smog Angeles area was a favorite pastime.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

The small parts is why I bought a stereo microscope a couple of years ago. Best $ 290 I have spent in a long time. I was about 65 when I started on the SMD circuits. Even use it now to wire the 1/8 inch phone plugs. Now some of them have 4 wires going to them.

I remember wiring up a ST-6 rtty demodulator on a piece of pref board and point to point wiring and did not even wear glasses. About 6 or so ICs and lots of parts and a few transistors. Now I can hardly see the parts with my glasses on.

With the proper equipmnet it is not too difficult to build up kits that have the PC board already made. Sometimes I think it is even easier than the old transistor circuits.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

It's free now, just keep an eye out for stuff dumped on the street.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

If you're just looking to strip the ends, you can put a blob of solder on t he end of a soldering iron and immerse the end of the wire in it. No chance of fire, no carbolising, no corrosion, no sanding, no anything. You can re st the iron and the blob on cardboard, it is not likely to burn it even wit h the lead free temperatures, though keep your eye on it of course.

I've done it with butane lighters and had to clean the carbon off, I also s kinned it with a knife or razor. But when my ex-boss showed me that techniq ue I was convinced. Almost no smoke, and the copper is about tinned as well .

He taught me a couple of things, and I him as well. One fault, I told him w hat it was and his response was "I'll not soon forget that".

This guy had a couple of other talents. Like rebuilding a cam gear in a VCR , even recreating the teeth with pieces of paper clip, shaped just right.

Anyway, he pissed me off later and I went to work for his olady, and that d idn't work well. Ditzy bitch. Paychecks bounced and she sports a new neckla ce. That was pretty much the end of that. See he got drunk and hit a cop ca r and figured they were going to sue his balls off so he gave the business to her.

Anyway, just get some cardboard and your iron and some solder and it will s trip. I have used that method many times.

Reply to
jurb6006

Afterwards, I wonder how much you could net at a junk yard for it.

Reply to
bruce2bowser

Solder temperature when wiring to the board needn't be the solder temperature that strips and tins the wire; you can dip a wire end into a solder pot instead.

Reply to
whit3rd

Many are missing what I want to do. I would like to start at one point on a circuit board, maybe go to 3 or 4 or more places with an unbroken wire and just solder at each point on the board.

That is why I want insulation that melts off around 300 deg c or less.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

This is what I use. You can get it in a few colors from Farnell.

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mikko OH2HVJ
Reply to
Mikko OH2HVJ

the enamel strips nicely a bit from the end of the wire if you push it

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mikko
Reply to
Mikko OH2HVJ

That is the problem I have. I bought some that specifies 400 deg C and that is too much heat for what I want to do. Going that hot for long enough to melt the insulation usually lifts the traces off a board.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

ink/dp/07WX0917

I use wire wrap wire and the appropriate strippers. You can easily strip in sulation and slide it down the wire just enough to expose a bare spot to so lder to the component pin, then slide the insulation back down to the solde r joint. Makes for a very clean looking, bullet proof connection. All you h ave to do is eyeball the insulation lengths you'll need ahead of time. Limi t your daisy chains to 3 or 4 spots, or maybe 8" to 10" of wire, or it gets unwieldy.

My preferred wire is AD-STRIP Kynar, and it is designed for CSW (cut/strip/ wrap) usage -- another excellent way of prototyping, which I still use ofte n. Only downside is the CSW bit is expensive (but it does seem to last fore ver). Makes prototyping so fast and fun. Wire-wrap is NOT dead. If you can make your circuit work in wire-wrap, it'll work on a PCB.

Reply to
Terry Schwartz

I don't know. But I have stripped a lot of magnet wire using a tool I bought 36 years ago when I worked at a motor rewind shop. Here's a link to the description.

The big down side is, the company now wants $49 for the hand tool. Even if I had paid that price, amortized over 36 years it's not so bad. It still works very well even though it has 36 years of use on it. It's at the bottom of this page,

Note, the WRST72 above it is only $10. Mikek

Reply to
amdx

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+8??5:54:24?Ralph Mowery???

Our factory use this machine,we use it for some special project order,for h eavy duty multi core power cable

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Reply to
poeelect.com

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