This is just one easy way to use Windows, Linux, and iOS together, to quickly and easily watch a YouTube DIY at a location that has no Internet.
On Windows, I downloaded the desired YouTube DIY: youtubedl
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It's easy to transfer files into VLC over USB on dual-boot Linux:
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That's it. Now the video was on iOS playable where there is no Internet.
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A. I bought the tools at Harbor Freight & the speakers at Fryes:
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B. I followed the YouTube DIY in VLC, step by step:
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C. I removed the decrepit Toyota OEM 20W $300 Panasonic speakers:
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D. I had to drill holes to fit the 450W Blaupunkt 3-way speakers:
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E. Everything else but the holes fit perfectly back into place:
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The only catch is that it's amazing that something as common as a 6x9" oval speaker requires holes to be drilled in the rear deck given that these things should simply be standard.
Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 02:22:08 -0700 (PDT), schrieb snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com:
I've seen Jeff Liebermann's responses to questions of how manufacturers' lie about specs, where he has personally doublechecked things like claimed wattage on radios.
But what's amazing is that a pair of $300 Panasonic 20W paper-cone one-way speakers sells at Toyota, when these $30 Blaupunkt 450W (claimed) speakers are clearly better made.
The magnets alone weight a ton compared to the flyweight Panasonics - although I don't think there is a spec on magnet heft. (What does the magnet heft mean, in terms of specs, when the difference is striking between two speakers?)
Also the paper of the $300 Panasonic cone is brittle and subject to sun degradation, while the $30 Blaupunkt was presumably more sunlight resistant rubber & foam.
But to your point on wattage, the head unit remained which likely was not capable of outputting more than 20 watts RMS anyway - so there's no chance that the $30 Blaupunkt speakers will be carrying more than that.
One question I have is why don't they make speaker holes standard for standard-sized speakers? The other question is about that magnet.
If there were two same-sized speakers, one with a huge magnet and another with a puny magnet, what does that mean in terms of likely performance spec differences?
On 4/16/18 11:27 AM, Ragnusen Ultred wrote: > Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 09:08:19 -0500, schrieb Fox's Mercantile: > >> You are obviously obsessed with the idea that I'm Snit. >> I hate to break the news to you Bunky, I ain't Snit. > > Then why do you puppy-dog follow me around the net, just like > you did as Snit
I hate to break it to you, but Snit ain't the only one that thinks you're a worthless troll spewing your stupid shit non-stop. But keep calling me Snit if that's what makes your pitiful excuse of a dick hard.
Glad to see you enjoy being told you're a moron. Maybe you'll just shut the f*ck up and go away.
And I keep re-including your original cross-posted groups because I'm sure they're enjoying watching you getting your nose rubbed in your own shit repeatedly.
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
There is a class of puppy that not only is incapable of learning, but enjoys the smell of its poop, and the spreading of it about. However, if ignored, it will go somewhere else as it requires the (negative) attention in order to survive.
Such puppies are also very good at finding that single vulnerable point to exploit to continue said negative attention. In your case - Snit.
Put this troll into a silent hell with no feedback but for what it makes for itself, and eventually (long-term) it will shrivel up and blow away.
Not a problem if you use maximum momentary peak pulse dynamic percussive music power or something like that. Need bigger numbers? Just change the test method.
"Thus, the ideal 100-watt audio system would need to be capable of handling brief peaks of 10,000 watts in order to avoid clipping".
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 07:31:55 -0700 (PDT), schrieb trader_4:
Well, that works but remember, it's not my car, so I'm completely unfamiliar with everything about the car.
Also remember that I have a lady watching over my shoulder who was the mom of the girl who was her daughter, helping me, who owned the car ... where you know, as I know, that breaking things like those dastardly clips gets those kinds of people upset.
Us? We break those clips all the time ... and we remove more parts than necessary all the time, and we remove fewer than needed all the time, and we take off parts out of order all the time, etc., where I didn't have the luxury of experimenting while working on this neighbor's car.
Besides, I could have written it all down, but really, it's just speakers (as you said) and there were only about fifty or so connectors to unclip or unscrew, so, that's not all that much to remember (or write down), but why bother.
I put the kid to good use by having her hold the iPad tablet, and she would read out the next step and I would do it while she paused it.
That worked out perfectly - but they don't have a router (reminder for me to buy them a new router as they only use desktops or cellular).
In my case, this use model was perfect:\ a. Mom watched over everything like a hawk (but she did bring refreshments!) b. Daughter held iPad and told me what step to do next (this kept her busy). c. I removed the fifty or so bolts and clips & installed the speakers.
When it came time to drill into the rear panel, I sent the mom and daughter inside asking for them to make more food!
(They would have screamed had they seen me drilling the holes.)
Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 09:50:59 -0700 (PDT), schrieb trader_4:
You bring up a good point, trader_4, which is that what's trivial on Android is actually impossible (or at least a lot harder) on iOS, but I play with all operating systems - so I deal with them as they come to me.
So yes, Android does everything iOS does, and then tons and tons and tons more, while iOS doesn't do even what Android does, and iOS does nothing that Android doesn't already do.
Hence, I agree that iOS users put up with this Apple crap ... but it is what it is - and all we can do is deal with it if that's what we have in our hands.
To always try to add value, on Android, here's what I suggest:
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Be warned that the Google Play knockoffs on New Pipe seem to have taken the source code and added their advertising crap to that source code and then remarketed it on Google Play - so I only recommend the F-Droid version but if you don't want to use F-Droid, the Google Play knockoffs do work and even they are better than Youtube is.
If we use Android - that's the only app that is needed to download any video and then play it offline at your leisure (we were working on the car at the neighbor's house who didn't have a router so we couldn't connect to their Internet).
To continue to add value, one advantage of Linux over Windows is that Linux actually works BETTER than Windows with an iOS device. You just connect the iOS device by USB and slide the files over into the "private space" of the VLC app and you're done.
On Windows it's slightly more complex because iTunes or the Apple Device Drivers are needed (IMHO), and that's just not acceptable. At least when I plug the iOS device into the latest Win10, but without iTunes or Apple crapware, what shows up is not nearly as much as what shows up on Linux, and on Linux, it's two way whereas on Windows it's only one way.
Another question I might ask here is why did I have to MODIFY the speaker drill holes. I realize the simple answer is "you just have to". But Jesus. It's just a 6x9 oval speaker for heaven's sake. There's nothing in a speaker which necessitates "special" drill holes.
Why don't they just make speaker holes standard like a billion other things are standard (e.g., USB or pipe fittings or quick couplers, etc.)?
Also, I didn't realize speakers have a +/- wire. What happens if you reverse that?
Note though that it's hard to reverse them since both the connection on the speaker and the harness connector on the car had one wire with a red stripe and the speaker itself had a plus and minus sign and the terminals on the speaker were different sizes and the harness connector on the car only clipped in one direction.
So they did a *lot* of things to ensure that you don't get the wires crossed.
But what happens if you do cross the wires? (Just curious.)
Please do not aid and abet the troll. It is ignorant (or chooses to feign i gnorance) of the most basic electronic principles in order to smear its fec al matter about.
I keep speakers 'rated' at 200 watts. Sure they are.
If 200 = V^2/8, then V = sr1600 = 40 volts.
If I feed a continuous 40V @ 5A @ 60hz into those speakers I would expect a melted voice-coil in short order. Never mind 450 watts.
Reading the literature that came with the speakers, the "ratings" are based on a normal signal being driven to 200 watts up to 20% of the time. Furthe r defining 'normal', a signal being driven to clipping less than 5% of the time and only for brief (less than 1 second) intervals. As they should be, the manufacturer was more concerned with clipping than high-power. Note th at sound reinforcement speakers (as distinct from home audio speakers) are designed for much higher continuous input. This is really basic stuff - and even the world of automotive audio (very nearly a contradiction-in-terms) IA subject thereto.
Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 09:25:29 -0700 (PDT), schrieb trader_4:
It's clear that you, trader_4, understand that of the fifty or so bolts and clips that had to come out, not a single one was visible, where it's not always obvious how many there are or in which order to remove the dozen or so pieces of trim and lights and grills and decks and molding and belts and cushions, etc., that had to be removed in order to just *expose* the speaker bolts in this kid's vehicle.
Obviously, once the speakers were exposed, the wiring was trivial, which, even James Wilkinson Sword must note, I didn't say I had any problem with the physical part of wiring the speakers.
BTW, to add value here, the *great* thing about the physical wiring was that the positive and negative was so obvious in so many ways that you couldn't possibly make a mistake. a. The harness wires were color coded with a red stripe b. The speaker wires were also color coded with a red stripe c. The speakers themselves had different sized connectors d. The harness connection itself only clipped in one way e. The speakers had a plus and minus symbol
So, the wiring was really easy. I used wire nuts to connect to the harness connector so that the speakers could be swapped out more easily in the future.
Routing the wires was also easy as there were pre-fashioned clips and curved troughs in the back deck, which routed the wires behind the seats to the hidden harness connectors (none of which was covered in the video but they were all easy to find since you just follow the wires).
The speaker cutout even had a "well indentation" to get the wires from underneath (in the trunk) to topside (to connect to the hidden harness clip behind the back of the seats).
So, as trader_4 astutely noted, the wiring wasn't ever the problem. The advantage of the video was simply to know where the fifty odd hidden connections were in the dozen odd upholstery and trim panels that had to be removed.
No, it doesn't. It might make the music sound odd if you're very very very very good at hearing, or you have OCD, otherwise it may just reduce the volume slightly. Unless you have the speakers positioned perfectly and are sitting in a precise position, then the delay of the speed of sound will cause more problems anyway.
If two stereo speakers are out of phase, they tend to cancel out low frequencies. You get no bass. The cutoff frequency depends on how far apart the speakers are. If they're less than half a wavelength you get significant cancellation.
Try this: wire two speakers this way, set your amp to mono, and place the speakers directly face-to-face. Most of the sound gets cancelled.
Am I being stupid or shouldn't ALL the sound get cancelled at ANY frequency if you're sat midway between them? Imagine you're sat in your living room and have one speaker 3 metres in front of you and 1 metre to the left, and the other 3 metres in front of you and 1 metre to the right. All sounds come out of the two speakers 180 degrees out of phase. Since the distance from the left speaker and the right speaker to your head is identical, the sounds will still be 180 degrees out of phase when they reach you.
Since this doesn't happen I can only assume that either:
1) you hear the two out of phase sounds with different ears and your brain allows for this.
2) reflections off the walls mean you can always hear the sound anyway.
I've often connected speakers both ways round and never been able to tell one was quieter than the other.
If you were in one of those weird silent rooms (anechoic?) then you might not hear anything if you wired them up wrong. I saw a TV program once where you couldn't hear someone speaking if they faced the other way, as the sound from their mouth didn't bounce off anything. I guess the same would happen if you were floating in mid air, like er.... space, but with air.
Anyway, it doesn't matter, you get precisely the same sound whichever way you wire them up, I guess something just bounces.
--
"Whoever said the pen is mightier than the sword obviously never encountered automatic weapons."
- General MacArthur
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