Toaster Oven Element

Anybody? Otherwise, I'm going to have to dump it :(

You failed to mention the manufacture and model.

If you open the toaster oven, it is very likely that element is connected in its assembly by arc-weilding, and not by crimp connection or solder connection right at its immediate connection point. This is because the temperature at its direct connection point is much too hot for soldering or for crimp connecting.

Because the elements are a factory arc-welded assembly, this is something that most service centers are not equiped to do. The cost for the work tools, parts distribution, inventories, and the time would not be worth it for a small appliance. When my toaster oven fails, I bring it to the re-cycling depot near to my place. Maybe the next car I buy, the metal in its body was a stove or a toaster oven!

Another interesting thing to consider, is that each of the elements for a North American appliance are rated at 60 Volts. In a 4 element toastar oven, they would then put them in 2 groups that are in series to give a rating of 120 Volts. This would be in each section (lower and upper) in order to have 4 elements in total. Each section group is rated for 120 Volts.

A single element cannot be changed even if elements were available and you were able to do the arc-welding work to change them. As the elements are used, over time their resistance will change slightly. If a new one is added, there will no longer be an exact ballance of the resistance between the two elements. The one of the higher resistance would burn out faster. As these elements age, their resistance may not change linearly in relation to each other, and therefore one of the elements will burn out before the other.

It's time to buy a new toaster!!!

Jerry G.

Probably, but...

If the resistance of the other element in the pair has increased (which is what I'd expect to happen), then the total resistance will be higher and while there may be some imbalance in the power of the two elements, neither will see more power than it did originally. However, the original (not replaced) one will likely be closer to end-of-life so might as well replace both.

As to welding, I've used screws, nuts, and washers in a pinch. Your mileage may vary.

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I soldered a welded lead that had broken loose in a GE toaster, and it continued to work for some years. (The toaster eventually failed from a jammed power solenoid.) However, I agree that soldered connections are "iffy", and potentially (no joke intended) dangerous.

e

As I mentioned in my original post, the connections are screw connections, hence the threaded piece at each end, so replacing the element is very simple and straight forward. I also understand the "pairing" of the elements as I did disassemble the unit before seeking help in finding a source for the element. It was my intention to buy and replace a pair.

Unfortunately, the problem appears to boil down to the nanny state mentality whereby consumers are asked to replace things rather than repair them. The excuse is the danger or the complexity but the reality is that it is more profitable for the manufacturer when the customer buys a new unit instead of repairing the old one.

Over the years, I have repaired many appliances and, like you, have used different techniques in different situations. Where possible, I like to same with same connections but have used crimped and mechanical connections to replace welded connections. The skills and judgement are fairly obvious to someone who knows and understands them but, of course, not to someone who doesn't. Does that mean we shouldn't post here. I think not.

BTW, I still haven't found a source of these elements.