speaker refoam

I do that. I use a function generator on sine and set it to the free air re sonance frequency It is easy to see, whatever frequency moves the cone the most. Then I see which way it might have to go to be in the most perfect ce nter. It could be fine without touching it but I push it both ways on both axes to find which way the bent bends. Whichever way I got the most clearan ce before the voice coil rubs is the direction I "coax" it to before the gl ue dries.

Once I had to fix one someone else had done. He thought it would require re moving the glue and tearing everything out. Nope. I simply bent the frame s lightly. Of course this will not work on speakers with cast frames so just be more careful on those.

Actually there is money doing that. I heard of a guy in my state who starte d doing a few and still worked. In a couple of years he quit his day job to do this full time and makes decent bucks doing it. He can't keep up with t he work. I am considering doing it. All you need is a little bit of exposur e and a few satisfied customers. And of course I would have a discount for cash... It would tie in nicely with any of my stereo fixing endeavors as we ll, it would be practically the same customers. And audiophiles go in packs , at least on the internet. Of course some of them will fly cross country t o hear another's system, but when your system cost more than a new car you do things like that.

Reply to
jurb6006
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e but I realize it's not rocket science but there's probably a learning cur ve. I won't have the option of do a trial run.

dust caps seem well bonded to the cone. I'd much prefer to shim the cone b efore bonding the foams, but I don't know if the dust caps can be removed s omehow from the cones without damaging them.

I've done 6 refoams on Advent woofers and 2 on 6" JBL drivers. The first Ad vent kit came with shims and new dust caps. I followed the instructions and they worked fine. The next sets came without shims and I did not use any a nd everything is fine. I know the gap in the Advent drivers is quite large though I don't know if it's different in other brands. I have no idea what the gap is in the JBL but had no problem. As long as the spider hasn't shif ted I don't think you'll have problems.

Reply to
stratus46

You can The voice coil could be ike:

|/|_|/| or |\|_|\|

with the top of the coil perfectly aligned but the bottom of it off due to the cone edges not being in the right position I use the generator and find which direction has the most leeway until it rubs and then "coax" it into the best position. This way when it gets pushed and expands thermally the c learances should not disappear.

Reply to
jurb6006

I did refoam speakers (mainly woofers) 5 years ago for my mother and me ; they work pretty fine (8Ohms 45W and 100W peak).

The only specific check is the centering BEFORE glueing. The best is to put a cylinder of paper or plastic (about 1 or 0,5mm) around the bobin for centering (take care not to damage the wiring). Then glue the foam ring to the cone and the circular skeleton of the speaker ; NO FORCE TO APPLY ; let everything must rest where it is. After 2 days, take the cylinder off, clean and glue the diaphram.

Then let rest for at least 2 days.

Goodhifi is a very nice supplier, when you provide the right informations (manufacturer, exact type - written on the magnet...). They also provide tutos for operations (see Youtube). You can get new diaphragms, new cones and the appropriate glue.

Before that, check the wiring is OK ; no enammelled wire damaged.

Forgive my lack of English.

Reply to
Look165

I've done a couple of them. As long as there is no need to repair or replace the cone or detach it from the coil or spider (I think it's called), I didn't have to shim the coil. The spider held it centered well enough that as long as no lateral load was placed on the cone during the foam glue setup, the air gap remained OK.

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