You're right about digital temperature readouts for soldering iron tip temps.. Depending upon the quality of the controller design, the readout may only be accurate for a (small) portion of the span of the temp control.
One can periodically check the tip temp at various settings with a thermocouple, in the way that routine calibrations are required in some areas of assembly work. The tip temp will show a lower temperature with the thermocouple readout if the tip is basically dry. A decent sized blob of solder on the tip will improve the heat transfer to the thermocouple junction, for a more stable and accurate reading.
FWIW, I stopped using dampened sponge tip cleaners a number of years ago, and instead use the kitchen pot scrubber type of tip cleaner. The damp sponges tend to drop the tip temp quite a bit, and I suspect the thermal shock probably impacts the service life of the iron clad/plated tips. The Edsyn plated tips I've been using for maybe 8 years have been greatly outlasting any other tips I've used in the past. Some sellrs refer to these types of materials as wool, although metal ribbon might be more accurate. It has the appearance of lathe turnings. There are several metals used for the commercial tip cleaners and the pot scrubbers, but I've been using the stainless steel ribbon without any problems.
Many years ago I used steel wool for tip cleaning until a tiny piece of a strand was transferred to a circuit board unnoticed, and the signal generator suddenly developed new faults. It took quite a while to find the fine wire bridge, and that was the last time I used steel wool.
Another Tip tip I picked up here in SER (Andy Cuff used to mention it) is to leave a blob of solder on the tip when shutting the iron off. I'll do a final couple of jabs into the metal tip cleaner, then add solder to the tip and turn the power off. The tip is protected by a thick layer of clean solder until the next use.. and easily cleans off leaving a bright well-tinned tip.
A cleaned tip won't be protected by only a thin film of solder, which will oxidize and be more difficult to clean off, IME.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
wrote in message
news:l1ocp8hqa54ad0h0tlf97575fukbh32gsg@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 17 May 2013 11:06:39 +0100, "N_Cook"
> wrote:
>
>> wrote in message
>>news:ai0bp8tu2gh6tmeqgll656emr24c2s50pn@4ax.com...
>>> I know this has been kicked around plenty but I just soldered a new
>>> plug onto a pair of ear buds and the method I use works fast and works
>>> well and has worked every time for me. I melt enough flux core solder
>>> on the soldering iron tip to cause a large drop to hang from the tip
>>> when held horizontally. I then pass the tinsel wire, which I have
>>> already twisted a bit so the strands stay together, through the
>>> hanging drop. Sometimes I have to pass to wire forward and backwards a
>>> couple times for it to tin completely. I then wipe or shake the solder
>>> off, apply new solder, and do another wire. When I use the above
>>> method the burned insulation and used up flux seem to rise up to and
>>> over the iron tip while the solder drop hanging below stays clean.
>>> Eric
>>
>>Any idea of the iron temperature? sounds as though it may be lower than
>>usual solder work, you need to melt the insulation but not carbonise it
>>presumably
>>
> TYhe temp I use, according to the scale on my soldering iron, is about
> 630F. My iron just has LEDS to indicate temp. My next iron will have a
> digital readout. But who knows if the numbers on the display are
> accurate?
> Eric