Sharp 26" LCD HDTV LC-26SH12U Backlite dies after being on a couple of seconds

Was working fine until recently, the back light seems to be shutting off. After turning on the tv, the screen will light up for about 1-2 seconds then it will shut off and become black, but the tv remains on and working otherwise. Shining a flashlight on the screen indicates the picture is there. Audio is OK. Anyone know if this is a systemic problem with this TV? If so, is there a well-known fix?

Any other thoughts about what could be the root problem? So for this model, where is a good place to get replacement parts? (e.g. inverter board, lamps)

Thanks

-John

Reply to
jjh
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Not an LED type I assume. Seems to be a common fault. The back light electronic usually consists of a number of identical circuits. The controller checks the current of all of them. If only one is out of range it will shut down.

Check the resistance of the transformers. Chances are one is out. Be careful and make sure there is no high voltage left when working on the inverter board.

Tony

Reply to
TonyS

mine turned out to be 2 broken ccfl lamps. Like Tony said, it detected low current on this circuit and shut it down. I ordered 2 new lamps. Roy

Reply to
Eggie

Common failures of the backlight system include bad capacitors, aging or broken CCFLs, wiring problems (bad solder joints, arcing) to the CCFLs, bad transformer, or a fault in the CCFL monitoring circuit.

If you have a DMM and steady nerves, it is possible to isolate the problem. The first step requires opening the TV and locating the power supply and the inverter. Look for bulging capacitors in the power supply and the inverter.

Next look at the leads from the inverter to the CCFLs (backlights). Usually the wires are in pairs. If the wires in the pairs are of different diameters the smaller diameter wire is the return line. Measure the AC voltage on each return line as the backlights are operating. (Yes, you only have a few seconds). Normally each wire will have the same voltage; you are looking for the one that is noticably different than the others.

The other step may require removing the inverter from the TV. With it unplugged from AC power measure the resistance between the leads of the transformers. Again, you are looking for the thransformer that is significantly different than the rest.

PlainBill

Reply to
PlainBill47

Thank you, and a follow-up question=A0

Measure across the return line to what? Is there a well marked grounding point on the board? Or should I just measure across the two wires to see what voltage the lamp is getting, and look for one with a significant difference among the others?

Thanks you all for your pointers...

If the CCFL's are bad, where is a good place to buy replacements at a reasonable cost?

TIA, John

Reply to
jjh

DO NOT measure across the CCFLs. Unless you have a DMM designed for

2KV AC this could destroy your DMM. Measure from the return line to ground. The metal chassis is a good point. Quite often the circuit boards will have a small grounding tab under one screw. I use the head of that screw as a ground point.

Google 'CCFL backlight', you will find several vendors who manufacture CCFLs in a variety of lengths and diameters. Based on my experience, the CCFL is one of the least likely parts to fail. Transformers and wires are more likely causes of the 'two seconds to black' symptom.

PlainBill

Reply to
PlainBill47

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