What would the cheapest way to protect a sensor light from spikes? I live out of the city and when the power drops out every so often the sensing portion of sensor light blows, But the spikes are not enough to damage anything else.Keep replacing sensor lights. This time I might investigate sensor circuit and see what is faulty.
PIR sensor ? There is some safety routine that applies to some such PIR in the event of a powercut , they have to be reset, find the instruction manual
These are cheap and nasty thingos.when you switch them on once they set themselves, if you switch them twice in quick succession they stay lit, if you switch them off,wait 10 sec.then switch them on once they revert to pir operation, tried this and they do not work in sensing mode. I was thinking of some suppressor to put in circuit to protect against spikes.
F Murtz formulerede spørgsmålet:
That is not a bug, it is a feature (tm)
If you want to have the lights on permanently, you turn the power off and on again quickly.
If you want to revert to normal operation, turn off for 10 seconds and turn on again.
They are ment to work that way.
What do you mean by "tried this and they do not work in sensing mode."?
It is not spikes, which cause the trouble, it is the dropouts, which turns the lights on.
Which means you either have to modify the lights to remove the feature, or power the lights from an UPS.
Leif
-- Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske beslutning at undlade det.
That is what I said, but it does not work that way any more
After the drop out the light ceases to function as it is supposed to, none of the usual switch on once after 10 seconds for detector use or switch twice for permanent on works it is either permanently on or off. the light just acts as if it had no sensor in circuit.
This is the third one I have to replace, all blowing up after supply interruptions. May be I should fit a more expensive one but I would rather have some suppression or protection that works.
I know how they are supposed to work but these dont.
To date I have just chucked them and replaced but I will keep this one and dismember it and figure what is blowing.
On Friday, November 30, 2012 6:48:57 AM UTC-8, F Murtz wrote:
are cheap and nasty thingos.when you switch them on once they >> set themse lves, if you switch them twice in quick succession they stay >> lit, if you switch them off,wait 10 sec.then switch them on once they >> revert to pir operation, tried this and they do not work in sensing mode. >> I was think ing of some suppressor to put in circuit to protect against >> spikes. > > That is not a bug, it is a feature (tm) > > If you want to have the lights on permanently, you turn the power off > and on again quickly. > > If you w ant to revert to normal operation, turn off for 10 seconds and > turn on ag ain. > > They are ment to work that way. That is what I said, but it does n ot work that way any more > > What do you mean by "tried this and they do n ot work in sensing mode."? > > It is not spikes, which cause the trouble, i t is the dropouts, which > turns the lights on. > > Which means you either have to modify the lights to remove the feature, > or power the lights from an UPS. > > Leif > After the drop out the light ceases to function as it i s supposed to, none of the usual switch on once after 10 seconds for detect or use or switch twice for permanent on works it is either permanently on o r off. the light just acts as if it had no sensor in circuit. This is the t hird one I have to replace, all blowing up after supply interruptions. May be I should fit a more expensive one but I would rather have some suppressi on or protection that works. I know how they are supposed to work but these dont. To date I have just chucked them and replaced but I will keep this o ne and dismember it and figure what is blowing.
I have seen two basic types of circuit: one is powered via a step down tran sformer [usually the fairly old designs] and the newer ones seem to be powe red directly off line. In either case, a suitable "Transorb" Zener across t he internal power rail of the sensor circuit should protect against transie nts damaging that part of it. The other sensitive part is the SCR/Triac tha t controls the lights. If it is blown, then replace it with a 800-1000V rat ed part and add a good sized 140V MOV across it. If the MOV fries, it will only turn the light[s] on and not cause a fire.
Neil S.
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