Scratchy volume control.

e to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette player s. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control ou t, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

r - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color con trol. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control wa s manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it res tored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lub e (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the ne utralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color poppe d back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was th at I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them . The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't li ke how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was ro tated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

Rubber belts tends to have disintegrated, less often rubber pulleys too. Ch eap stationery rubber bands are often good enough, but not always.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr
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You claimed it was the same as LPS2, IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells d ifferent it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that w ay. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.

When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust that it collect s maybe not. Even if there are not say carbon particles in the environment, even dander and other types of dust, even though they MIGHT be electricall y inert, they won't be when the humidity is high. If it is dander you can b e sure there is is/are salt(s) in it. Much dust is dander.

Reply to
jurb6006

I say give him a gun and watch the fun...

Reply to
jurb6006

something to do with that. "

Hair spray is much better, but don't use it on electronics.

Reply to
jurb6006

Yup.

What you smell is what burns.

Reply to
jurb6006

round) use a piece of string to work that out."

e between.

It didn't work out. (pun optional)

Reply to
jurb6006

The little radio is working so well that I'll leave off the lube for a while. The wheel is a bit easier to twirl now.

Reply to
Peter Jason

Maybe next time, try damping grease: I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.

[1]
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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Been looking for something like damping grease.

Greg

Reply to
gregz

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed. The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch. Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

For sliders that sit upright. The particular plastic rails seems problematic. I tried everything I had including silicone damping fluid, not on resistance part. The only thing that works is absolute clean, or Deoxit after it's fully dried. I kept thinking some kind of thick stable grease. Silicone with TFE nope. Got kit ordered.

Greg

Reply to
gregz

What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs on motherboards?

Reply to
Peter Jason

I assume you mean heat conducting stuff? Way too viscous, but I don't know if it will creep (prob not).

Reply to
John-Del

My experience shows it dries up. Sure is messy.

Greg

Reply to
gregz

Are you talking about "liquid metal" (gallium-indium) thermal paste? The paste offers an improvement in thermal conductivity, but with some issues. It rots aluminum heat sinks. It tends to run and drip when hot, shorting out everything it touches. It's difficult to clean up. It's expensive. I haven't tried liquid metal, but have cleaned up a motherboard and video card where the customer applied some.

W/m*K Diamond 1000 c-BN 740 (Cubic Boron Nitride) h-BN 600 (Hexagonal Boron Nitride) Silver 406 Copper 385 Gold 314 AlN 285 (aluminum nitride ceramic) Aluminum 205 Graphite 200 Carbon 150 SiC 120 Brass 109 Indium 86 Liquid Metal 73 (Indium-gallium-tin) ZnO 50 (zinc oxide) Al2O3 25 (aluminum oxide ceramic) Pastes 4.0 SilPad 2000 3.5 Circuit Works 1.84 Dow Corning 340 0.67

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

I used contact cleaner to fix a noisy volume control in a Commander telephone.

Reply to
Lucifer

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